razzor

had a blast today at the regional champs.

Car was hauling and i had a good few tight dices.
Got a 3rd in the Amain for 27T.

car is getting dialed in.
Still have a few things to tweek and some batteries then its bumper to bumper racing.
I found the CO27 to be perfect at our track at a 28mm roll out while the fast guys ahead of me were running 27mm and 27.5mm.
Thanks for some of the advice and big shout out to QuickRC

TimV

iTrader: (49)

I have to agree that testing the amp draw of a motor with no load is useless. I was running a co27 with F-brushes for a while, and it was pulling about 8 amps with no load. I just switched the same motor over to 767 brushes, and I am now down to 4 amps no load. However the motor seemed a little faster on the track. It really comes down to how the motor performs on the track.

KHoff7

iTrader: (5)

agreed

cyrrus

iTrader: (5)

Hey I know I should place this in the reg Stock motor thread. but I just finished reading this, and oh well.

My question is this. How much float should a co-27 have. I heard somepeople say very little. some say's I should have some as it will naturally float in the magnetic feild. I'm still learning how to properly shim my motors. So anyhelp would be great.

Oh one other what is the best way to break in a set of brushes.

Desolas

iTrader: (2)

.010" or less without binding.

You can shim a motor middle, up, or down in the magnetic field for different results.

QuickRC

.010" or less is what you want for axial play like Desolas memntioned. If you can be right around .005" that is probably ideal since it leaves a little wiggle room but keeps the armature in place so the brushes can seat consistently in the same spot.

For break-in of brushes I personally run a 1volt, then 2 volt alternating cycle for 2 minutes, cool for 2 minutes then repeat the 1 and 2 volt cycle again for 2 minutes. I then run the motor at 5 volts for a short period of time - say 15 seconds to get an ideal of how the motor is revving and ampdraw. I let the motor cool completely then put it back on a motor checker and run at 2.5 volts and watch amp draw go up and when it is peoked out I call the brushes seated. This is just MY method and it is a little tedious but it works. The main thing is to not let the motor get hot and be sure to break in at a low voltage for at least 3 minutes - probably more. What you are doing is letting the brushes gently wear in to the shape of the comm.