Gearing for Novak 13.5 to 13.0 rotor in Stock
08-13-2007, 08:13 AM
#31
So with this 13mm...
I have read it makes the motor respond like a higher turn motor. That said, if it makes the 5.5 more like a 4.5, in theory, will it make the 3.5 drive like a 2.5? I have always wanted to go plaid, but that would be downright scary. Oh, when will Novak come out with something for my 1/18th scale so I can ditch this Mamba? The Mamba is fast, but I want my entire fleet to be purple and orange!
08-13-2007, 08:13 AM
#32
UN4Racing:
We still recommend that the motors are never run over 170 degrees F(temperature taken externally on whatever is the hottest part of the motor you check)
The best operating temperature is the lowest temperature! Heat = inefficiency...so the less heat you can have the better.
As far as what external temperature things start to fatigue at... I'd say you run the risk of fatiguing anywhere above 170 For so. There is always going to be a temperature gradient between the inside of the motor and the outside of the motor... that gradient depends on a number of different things such as ambient temperature, gearing, driving style, load on the motor, etc and it's really impossible to say for every situation what is too much...that's why we always recommend only going up to 170 degrees F.
We still recommend that the motors are never run over 170 degrees F(temperature taken externally on whatever is the hottest part of the motor you check)
The best operating temperature is the lowest temperature! Heat = inefficiency...so the less heat you can have the better.
As far as what external temperature things start to fatigue at... I'd say you run the risk of fatiguing anywhere above 170 For so. There is always going to be a temperature gradient between the inside of the motor and the outside of the motor... that gradient depends on a number of different things such as ambient temperature, gearing, driving style, load on the motor, etc and it's really impossible to say for every situation what is too much...that's why we always recommend only going up to 170 degrees F.
08-13-2007, 08:30 AM
#33
Tech Apprentice
I have read it makes the motor respond like a higher turn motor. That said, if it makes the 5.5 more like a 4.5, in theory, will it make the 3.5 drive like a 2.5? I have always wanted to go plaid, but that would be downright scary. Oh, when will Novak come out with something for my 1/18th scale so I can ditch this Mamba? The Mamba is fast, but I want my entire fleet to be purple and orange!
Dood, that not just a spaceballs reference. HA!
08-13-2007, 08:37 AM
#34
Total Spaceballs plug. Just copped the enhanced DVD woo hoo. Anyways.....this 13mm rotor, dropping it in my 3.5, what can I expect? And if I didnt go ballistic with the gearing, will my runtimes stay the same? As the signature says, I gear to run and win not to thermal. Does it require you gear up to stretch the legs of the rotor or can you go up incrementaly to find the sweet spot???
08-13-2007, 09:09 AM
#35
bxpitbull,
You're going to probably have to gear up a few teeth to get the top end out of the motor, but the bottom end response, brakes, and drag brakes should not only be stronger but more consistant and "natural" as well.
Yes the rotor gives you more power, but I think where it really shines is that it improves the drivability a bit as well.
You're going to probably have to gear up a few teeth to get the top end out of the motor, but the bottom end response, brakes, and drag brakes should not only be stronger but more consistant and "natural" as well.
Yes the rotor gives you more power, but I think where it really shines is that it improves the drivability a bit as well.
08-13-2007, 09:14 AM
#36
bxpitbull,
You're going to probably have to gear up a few teeth to get the top end out of the motor, but the bottom end response, brakes, and drag brakes should not only be stronger but more consistant and "natural" as well.
Yes the rotor gives you more power, but I think where it really shines is that it improves the drivability a bit as well.
You're going to probably have to gear up a few teeth to get the top end out of the motor, but the bottom end response, brakes, and drag brakes should not only be stronger but more consistant and "natural" as well.
Yes the rotor gives you more power, but I think where it really shines is that it improves the drivability a bit as well.
Last edited by bxpitbull; 08-13-2007 at 09:29 AM.
08-13-2007, 11:24 AM
#37
Hey Guys,
The intention of the 13mm Rotor is for Mod Racing. We're hoping tracks don't allow them in the "spec" racing because it starts a "motor/rotor" of the month club. The whole Idea of BL spec racing is that you buy a motor that is good for "years" of club racing.
The rotor has a small groove on the tappered section just befor the flat for the pinion, hopefully this is enough to allow tracks to do some Tech.
The manual's temp ranges are about spot on. We like to see the motors no hotter then 160-170F at the end of the run. That seems to be where the run the best. I'm sure at Some Tracks that is not true, but in general that is the case from our experience.
On a bit of a side note, and more to let everyone know the future of BL Spec Racing in general, Ourselves, and just about ALL the other BL manufactures are working with "the powers that be" to formulate a set of Spec BL rules that will allow a good fair base point to start the process of racing BL motors together. Hopefully these rules will be come to a close soon, and there will be a formula for all the manufactures to use to make a "spec" legal BL 13.5 and 10.5 motor. Part of these rules involved VERY tight tollerances, so all the motors will be virtually identical, and hopefully similar in power output. More then likely this will allow ONLY one size/type of rotor from each respective manufacture. This is all in the efforts to keep the cost down, and not need to own one of each motor.
Feel free to email us ANYTIME [email protected] , [email protected], or [email protected].
The intention of the 13mm Rotor is for Mod Racing. We're hoping tracks don't allow them in the "spec" racing because it starts a "motor/rotor" of the month club. The whole Idea of BL spec racing is that you buy a motor that is good for "years" of club racing.
The rotor has a small groove on the tappered section just befor the flat for the pinion, hopefully this is enough to allow tracks to do some Tech.
The manual's temp ranges are about spot on. We like to see the motors no hotter then 160-170F at the end of the run. That seems to be where the run the best. I'm sure at Some Tracks that is not true, but in general that is the case from our experience.
On a bit of a side note, and more to let everyone know the future of BL Spec Racing in general, Ourselves, and just about ALL the other BL manufactures are working with "the powers that be" to formulate a set of Spec BL rules that will allow a good fair base point to start the process of racing BL motors together. Hopefully these rules will be come to a close soon, and there will be a formula for all the manufactures to use to make a "spec" legal BL 13.5 and 10.5 motor. Part of these rules involved VERY tight tollerances, so all the motors will be virtually identical, and hopefully similar in power output. More then likely this will allow ONLY one size/type of rotor from each respective manufacture. This is all in the efforts to keep the cost down, and not need to own one of each motor.
Feel free to email us ANYTIME [email protected] , [email protected], or [email protected].
08-13-2007, 12:08 PM
#39
Thanks for the update Charlie, it's very good to hear that you guys are working together to do something reasonable with the spec motors. I think that's what everybody has been hoping for all along.
You know there's no chance people aren't going to throw these rotors in their 13.5's. :-)
You know there's no chance people aren't going to throw these rotors in their 13.5's. :-)
08-13-2007, 12:15 PM
#41
Um, Syndrome, be easy. In case you didnt read, I want all of my electric cars to have a level of consistancy. I just bought a GTB for my Pro3, have a GTB set-up in my Pro4 and seeing that Steve and NOW Charlie has chimed in, I figured I would ask. I race my micro and figured why start a thread for it that they may or may not see. If I offended your beady little eyes, boo hoo!
08-13-2007, 12:21 PM
#42
Um, Syndrome, be easy. In case you didnt read, I want all of my electric cars to have a level of consistancy. I just bought a GTB for my Pro3, have a GTB set-up in my Pro4 and seeing that Steve and NOW Charlie has chimed in, I figured I would ask. I race my micro and figured why start a thread for it that they may or may not see. If I offended your beady little eyes, boo hoo!
08-13-2007, 12:24 PM
#43
Na, I'm not offended, it was just kind of surprising. You know, in a "I like turtles" sort of way.
you sonofabitch lol. That was good. I plan on getting the 13mm for both my whips and this micro thing has been on my mind for a hot ghetto minute. Wont waste any more time here. Will email them directly. If that was anyone else, I would have mirked (you know how I get down in the club lol).
08-13-2007, 12:34 PM
#44
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Last edited by punkracer24; 08-13-2007 at 12:38 PM. Reason: l
08-13-2007, 12:36 PM
#45
the guys over at novak they are definitly on their game with this stuff