Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks
09-20-2008, 06:50 PM
#601
Great post John, even for newbie's like me hehe.
katfish317, I tried the 87spur and 23T combo with my brushless motor, but the pinion wouldn't reach the spur ?. So I ordered a 26T. Will keep a eye on motor temps I guess.
katfish317, I tried the 87spur and 23T combo with my brushless motor, but the pinion wouldn't reach the spur ?. So I ordered a 26T. Will keep a eye on motor temps I guess.
09-21-2008, 06:41 AM
#602
Thanks guys
Hide-Those Aluminum CVD look very nice. Here is where I would not use them. Outside with powerful motors, or on the front of a locked diff car with a powerful motor. That rules me out for wear reasons. Here is where they will help, with stock or superstock motors. You can try these on indoor tracks with good traction also in mod to give the car more zip. You have an almost frightening amount of zip available with a 3.5 already though.
I like the stock steel associated units on my track. They wear well. the little clips are useless. chunk em. If a setscrew gets loose the clips rotate and eject the pin through the slot which is just big enough. Use red locktite on the little set screws.
John
Hide-Those Aluminum CVD look very nice. Here is where I would not use them. Outside with powerful motors, or on the front of a locked diff car with a powerful motor. That rules me out for wear reasons. Here is where they will help, with stock or superstock motors. You can try these on indoor tracks with good traction also in mod to give the car more zip. You have an almost frightening amount of zip available with a 3.5 already though.
I like the stock steel associated units on my track. They wear well. the little clips are useless. chunk em. If a setscrew gets loose the clips rotate and eject the pin through the slot which is just big enough. Use red locktite on the little set screws.
John
I feel stupid now, because I just ordered a battery strap and screws for the TC5, and then literally 10 minutes later I went upstairs to find I had already got it in the parts box.
09-29-2008, 09:24 PM
#603
Well just consider those spares.
Chassis Protective Film
Here are some pics of the chassis protection film From Rommels RC World. I installed it with window cleaner so that I could slide it precisely in place. I only pulled out the cutouts for the pulleys and motor at this time. I think this task will be easier when the film takes a firm set on the chassis. The film is well cut to match the chassis dimensions. The backing is white in the first pictures and the cut lines are barely visible. The second pic shows the cut lines in glaring light and blown up quite a bit. They are finely cut lines to the naked eye.
The last pic is the product installled on my well worn chassis. It did improve the appearance of the old chassis considerably by adding shine to it. At this point the bare well used chassis is mostly satin finished. Now the point of the film is to prevent wear to a new chassis, but you could also use it to improve the appearance of a used car for sale. Track test to come.
Note that I have added two extra battery cutouts on the left side to increase chassis torsional flex for outdoor asphalt.
john
Chassis Protective Film
Here are some pics of the chassis protection film From Rommels RC World. I installed it with window cleaner so that I could slide it precisely in place. I only pulled out the cutouts for the pulleys and motor at this time. I think this task will be easier when the film takes a firm set on the chassis. The film is well cut to match the chassis dimensions. The backing is white in the first pictures and the cut lines are barely visible. The second pic shows the cut lines in glaring light and blown up quite a bit. They are finely cut lines to the naked eye.
The last pic is the product installled on my well worn chassis. It did improve the appearance of the old chassis considerably by adding shine to it. At this point the bare well used chassis is mostly satin finished. Now the point of the film is to prevent wear to a new chassis, but you could also use it to improve the appearance of a used car for sale. Track test to come.
Note that I have added two extra battery cutouts on the left side to increase chassis torsional flex for outdoor asphalt.
john
Last edited by John Stranahan; 09-30-2008 at 08:43 AM.
09-29-2008, 09:59 PM
#604
John, how easy was it to move around with just the window cleaner to align? I look forward to the track reports as once film sets its really tough!
One other question: how were the gaps at the edge of chassis once aligned? Was hoping for just a couple of mm's off edge to prevent from catching on obstructions!
One other question: how were the gaps at the edge of chassis once aligned? Was hoping for just a couple of mm's off edge to prevent from catching on obstructions!
Last edited by Rommel; 09-29-2008 at 10:13 PM.
09-30-2008, 08:37 AM
#605
It was very easy to move around with window cleaner. There is very little gap at the edge after over night curing less than 1 mm. Very nice fit to chassis. Cutouts were slightly difficult to remove and distorted the material. I am hoping after it sets this will become easy.
John
John
09-30-2008, 10:11 AM
#606
Hi John,
I raced the car this Saturday with the gearing you said should be ok. It was perfect! Didn't thermal and gave a good speed/acceleration ratio. The handling was perfect and felt like it was on rails. I won my first club race ever.
I raced the car this Saturday with the gearing you said should be ok. It was perfect! Didn't thermal and gave a good speed/acceleration ratio. The handling was perfect and felt like it was on rails. I won my first club race ever.
09-30-2008, 03:40 PM
#607
Hide-Thats just great results. Thanks for the report.
chassis protective film. I found the cutouts to be easy to remove after curing. tear from the middle to the edge. Once the edge is split in two it just unzips from the full circle by pulling one side. Came out nice.
Practice report
I run my TC5 on a big outdoor Nitro track brushless 3.5 LiPo. On some days when we don't treat the track the TC is just a lot faster than the 1/10 Nitro. I put two laps on one of the fastests drivers of 1/10 Nitro during his tank. On treated days he is a bit faster but most of the other 1/10 Nitro guys are not.
John
chassis protective film. I found the cutouts to be easy to remove after curing. tear from the middle to the edge. Once the edge is split in two it just unzips from the full circle by pulling one side. Came out nice.
Practice report
I run my TC5 on a big outdoor Nitro track brushless 3.5 LiPo. On some days when we don't treat the track the TC is just a lot faster than the 1/10 Nitro. I put two laps on one of the fastests drivers of 1/10 Nitro during his tank. On treated days he is a bit faster but most of the other 1/10 Nitro guys are not.
John
10-06-2008, 07:48 AM
#608
Chassis Protective Film by Rommels R/C World
I gave the film a good test. I ran three long packs on our outdoor track. The TC5 is really fast. Any bumps that are contacted are at high speed. Note in the picture the scratches at the nose. These are all scratches in the film that would have been in the graphite. Note also there is no evidence of peeling. That would be a show stopper. Nice product give it a try. Also in this view you can see the cutouts for the screws. I left these in place for those screws that did not need immediate attention. I was actually missing two screws. The material is cut accurately on a plotter and is intended to be just shy of the edge as can be seen in the photo.
John
I gave the film a good test. I ran three long packs on our outdoor track. The TC5 is really fast. Any bumps that are contacted are at high speed. Note in the picture the scratches at the nose. These are all scratches in the film that would have been in the graphite. Note also there is no evidence of peeling. That would be a show stopper. Nice product give it a try. Also in this view you can see the cutouts for the screws. I left these in place for those screws that did not need immediate attention. I was actually missing two screws. The material is cut accurately on a plotter and is intended to be just shy of the edge as can be seen in the photo.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-06-2008 at 09:00 AM.
10-06-2008, 02:11 PM
#609
If I was indoors do you think the film is as useful? I'm looking into getting some.
10-06-2008, 02:54 PM
#610
Great thread...I just got the Tc5r. Been fighting a lose rear end...What tires do u guys suggest using been using the take off 27... or 32... was wonderin are the jaco rubber tires has good as the take off's with wear and all...?
10-06-2008, 04:13 PM
#611
Hide-Using the film is a personal thing. I personally keep cars a long time. I replace the chassis when it is worn almost through. This takes from 6 months to a year. Some guys replace cars a lot more often and sell the used model, or they have less bumpy conditions where a car can remain more new looking. This film will protect the appearance of the bottom.
I reached my fastest speed ever on the straight with the TC5. I was using the film which is very smooth, but maybe the Sprite that I applied, left over from the Nitro race, was the cause. I was easily at 1/10 Nitro speed on the straight this day.
yodace-Try increasing rear toe in to 2.75 degrees. This requires the shims for 2.5 degrees and then a half thickness shim of aobut.025 inch. See if this brings the rear end under control. I found 3 degrees was too much.
Rubber Tire Wear Pattern
I had a guy with Jaco Prism rubber tires, Xray T2. I think the compound was blue. He was hooked up pretty well outdoors at 95F. Not quite as good as my Takeoff CS32's. These Takeoffs are the older ones though. I hear there had been some changes. The most important thing with rubber tires is to have the right heat range. With powerful mods, you are going to use 32's even on indoor asphalt as the motor heats the tires substantially on corner exit.
When you get the right heat range on a rubber tire on asphalt, the tires will develop tiny ripples lined up with the circumference. You can feel these with an index finger rubbed accross the tread. You can just barely see them. A tire wet with traction compound will show them the best.
Pic shows some of these ripples. Tire is a bit hard; some of it is scrubbed smooth, but it was hooked up well, so, did not warrant a change in compound.
If the rubber tire is too soft you will find rubber marbles on the tread or a ripped out center section as the tire is shredding instead of drifting smoothly.
I reached my fastest speed ever on the straight with the TC5. I was using the film which is very smooth, but maybe the Sprite that I applied, left over from the Nitro race, was the cause. I was easily at 1/10 Nitro speed on the straight this day.
yodace-Try increasing rear toe in to 2.75 degrees. This requires the shims for 2.5 degrees and then a half thickness shim of aobut.025 inch. See if this brings the rear end under control. I found 3 degrees was too much.
Rubber Tire Wear Pattern
I had a guy with Jaco Prism rubber tires, Xray T2. I think the compound was blue. He was hooked up pretty well outdoors at 95F. Not quite as good as my Takeoff CS32's. These Takeoffs are the older ones though. I hear there had been some changes. The most important thing with rubber tires is to have the right heat range. With powerful mods, you are going to use 32's even on indoor asphalt as the motor heats the tires substantially on corner exit.
When you get the right heat range on a rubber tire on asphalt, the tires will develop tiny ripples lined up with the circumference. You can feel these with an index finger rubbed accross the tread. You can just barely see them. A tire wet with traction compound will show them the best.
Pic shows some of these ripples. Tire is a bit hard; some of it is scrubbed smooth, but it was hooked up well, so, did not warrant a change in compound.
If the rubber tire is too soft you will find rubber marbles on the tread or a ripped out center section as the tire is shredding instead of drifting smoothly.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-07-2008 at 05:41 AM.
10-06-2008, 07:51 PM
#612
I Think i put greens springs in the rear and take off's 32 lol was in the 80's? Seemed to hlp..
Are those shims included in the kit? LOL are they numbered?
Are those shims included in the kit? LOL are they numbered?
10-06-2008, 08:33 PM
#613
Rear toe in shims are included, They snap in place. The .025 inch shim is about 1/2 the thickness of the thinnest Associated Shim. I measure it with a dial caliper. Just select a washer with about half the thickness. By eye is OK.
Associated arm mount shim
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRUU3&P=7
These are some .025 white nylon spacers
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=ASC4187
at 80 F the Takeoff 27 would be good with stock or superstock motors. With powerful mods you will need the 32's
Use the manual or dowload a manual to see what shims to use for 2.5 degrees. There are a thick med and thin shim. Then add the extra thin shim.
Associated arm mount shim
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRUU3&P=7
These are some .025 white nylon spacers
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=ASC4187
at 80 F the Takeoff 27 would be good with stock or superstock motors. With powerful mods you will need the 32's
Use the manual or dowload a manual to see what shims to use for 2.5 degrees. There are a thick med and thin shim. Then add the extra thin shim.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-07-2008 at 05:40 AM.
10-06-2008, 10:01 PM
#614
John, Thank you for the review. I really didn't know what to expect of your tests and/or the performance of it
I only knew that I would get some honest feedback(good or bad) from a serious racer. Please, if anyone has any questions regarding the chassis protector, don't hesitate to ask or send a pm.
I do know that I will use this thread for reference for racing my TC5, once football is over
Julius
I only knew that I would get some honest feedback(good or bad) from a serious racer. Please, if anyone has any questions regarding the chassis protector, don't hesitate to ask or send a pm.I do know that I will use this thread for reference for racing my TC5, once football is over
Julius
10-06-2008, 10:34 PM
#615
Just a quick question. Just purchased a TC5R and plan on running the Team Orion 3800 Lipo pack with rubber tires indoor on carpet.
Instead of running a traditional 6 cell pack, how much additional weight will have to be added to the car to make weight. Do you have any suggestions on weight (Lead Brass etc) and where should it be mounted?
Instead of running a traditional 6 cell pack, how much additional weight will have to be added to the car to make weight. Do you have any suggestions on weight (Lead Brass etc) and where should it be mounted?