stiltskin - if your car does not have dampning tubes, it most likley has a disk setup. the two disks rub on the top and bottom of the upper pod plate. the amount of dampning is adjusted by the amount of pressure applied to the disks by the springs sitting above and below the disks. the more pressure, the more dampning you get. dampning tubes are different because the dampning is adjusted by the weight of the oil in the tubes. higher wt oil gives you more dampning than lighter. it is personal preference which system you use.
it is my opinion that the tubes are a better set up for a coulpe of reasons. the first is that the disk system also affects the front/rear damping of the car. so if you want to lighen the side to side dampning of the car, you must increse the dampning in the shock so that the over all front/rear dampning stays the same. with the tubes, side to side dampning can be changed almost exclusively from the front/rear.
secondly, i feel that the disk system offers less protection form debris getting caught up in the system and making the car less consistant. we all know how the fuzz from the carpet and spent tire foam gets thrown around under the body of the car during a race.
finally, the tubes look cool. and they are available in a couple of colors to bling out your wagon.
hope this helps.
chris - how did you compensate for the fact that the holes in the chassis brace are larger than the ball studs supplied the the calandra kit for the tubes? i ended up using the larger, red studs used for the steering rods, and taking the a trailing arm from the carpet knife and made two rod ends for the tubes in order to fit over the larger ball studs.
the big wheel keeps on turning.