HELP PLEASE CARS SPINNING
07-21-2007, 05:35 AM
#16
Have you just replaced anything? Servo or servo saver?
I checked a new kids car out the other day. It was real wicked turning right mid corner and off. I checked it out and he had the servo saver about 10 teeth off. So he was hardly traveling to the left and over traveling a mile to the right. We got it dialed back in and got his end points much closer to center and the car drove much better. I hate to throw a "does it have gas in it?" solution at you, but this is what I've seen in the last week or so.
I checked a new kids car out the other day. It was real wicked turning right mid corner and off. I checked it out and he had the servo saver about 10 teeth off. So he was hardly traveling to the left and over traveling a mile to the right. We got it dialed back in and got his end points much closer to center and the car drove much better. I hate to throw a "does it have gas in it?" solution at you, but this is what I've seen in the last week or so.
Nothing is new I think I will try changing some springs around tommorrow as we are racing.
07-21-2007, 05:42 AM
#17
Did you check all the wheel bearings? You never said if you did that.
07-21-2007, 06:09 AM
#18
07-21-2007, 06:20 AM
#19
Tech Initiate
it seemed that youre having difficulties at on power exiting.. Try...
1.) increase front droop by 1mm (higher number at the droop guage)
if this doesnt work... try next with option # 1..
2.) stand up rear shocks at the rear shock tower, start a hole or two.
.. post again if nothing happens.
1.) increase front droop by 1mm (higher number at the droop guage)
if this doesnt work... try next with option # 1..
2.) stand up rear shocks at the rear shock tower, start a hole or two.
.. post again if nothing happens.
07-21-2007, 06:32 AM
#20
it seemed that youre having difficulties at on power exiting.. Try...
1.) increase front droop by 1mm (higher number at the droop guage)
if this doesnt work... try next with option # 1..
2.) stand up rear shocks at the rear shock tower, start a hole or two.
.. post again if nothing happens.
1.) increase front droop by 1mm (higher number at the droop guage)
if this doesnt work... try next with option # 1..
2.) stand up rear shocks at the rear shock tower, start a hole or two.
.. post again if nothing happens.
Regards
07-21-2007, 06:36 AM
#21
Tech Initiate
goodluck tom.
07-21-2007, 08:33 AM
#22
Tech Adept
I would also check the diff (make sure it does not go tight in one place), make sure things like lower A arms move freely and dont bind then when all checks ok then try settup changes.
07-21-2007, 08:53 PM
#23
Is that droop on the droop gauge or uptravel above ride height at full suspension travel?
It sounds like you have too much traction on the front. Less droop (by this I mean tighten down the droop screws) on the front and a higher ride height on that end may help. Also you should have softer springs and softer setup on your shock mounting positions in the rear than in the front.
If you have enough traction in the front and you yank hard on the throttle coming out of a turn when the car is already digging in to the outside you can spin it out. This is particularly pronounced with a spool in front but could happen with a nice tight diff also, particularly if the rear diff was looser.
Without a full layout of your setup it's harder to diagnose. So post a full setup including shock positions, etc. will help. Have you put the car (battery strap tightened down) on a tweak station? All the above assumes nothing is mechanically wrong or tweaked with your car. If you don't have a tweak station, borrow one... or if not available, at least try to eliminate any possible tweak (loosen and then retighten all screws in a crossing pattern ... also be sure things like tightening down a battery strap isn't warping the chassis (after all your adjustments are made when you don't see it). A tweak free car should be able to set up with everything (linkages, shock collars, etc.) in fairly symmetrical patterns and dimensions left to right.
Let us know how it went this weekend.
It sounds like you have too much traction on the front. Less droop (by this I mean tighten down the droop screws) on the front and a higher ride height on that end may help. Also you should have softer springs and softer setup on your shock mounting positions in the rear than in the front.
If you have enough traction in the front and you yank hard on the throttle coming out of a turn when the car is already digging in to the outside you can spin it out. This is particularly pronounced with a spool in front but could happen with a nice tight diff also, particularly if the rear diff was looser.
Without a full layout of your setup it's harder to diagnose. So post a full setup including shock positions, etc. will help. Have you put the car (battery strap tightened down) on a tweak station? All the above assumes nothing is mechanically wrong or tweaked with your car. If you don't have a tweak station, borrow one... or if not available, at least try to eliminate any possible tweak (loosen and then retighten all screws in a crossing pattern ... also be sure things like tightening down a battery strap isn't warping the chassis (after all your adjustments are made when you don't see it). A tweak free car should be able to set up with everything (linkages, shock collars, etc.) in fairly symmetrical patterns and dimensions left to right.
Let us know how it went this weekend.
07-22-2007, 12:41 AM
#24
Right Guys/Girls.
I had the car running this weekend, it still doing 360 spins coming out of the corner.
From my original set up I have but harder springs(blue) on the front with softer ones on the back (yellow).
The back springs are set up as follows:
On the arms I have three holes I have set them in the middle one, one the top I have four holes I have put it on the third hole from the out side.
The front springs are as follows:
On the arms I have three holes also and they are in the same spot in the middle, on the top I also have four holes it is set at the first hole from the inside of the chassis.
The camber was 2 on the front and 1.5 on the rear, I changed it to 2 all a round.
On the front I have 2 degrees toe out I think ( at the front i have a 1B suspension mount and the standard one at the rear of the front)
On the rear I have toe in A suspension mount on the front of the rear and 1B on th rear of the rear.
I had a red sway bar on the front and a blue on the rear, took the blue off didn't make a difference.
I used a droop gauge and it is set at 6 on the front (was 4) and 4 on the rear (was 2).
Ride height was 5mm all round, tried 27 take offs and 28 sorex's.
I think that is all my settings can someone please HELP me as I am at a loss.
What ever I do it isn't stopping it from spinning.
P.S all the settings were set up on a station.
I had the car running this weekend, it still doing 360 spins coming out of the corner.
From my original set up I have but harder springs(blue) on the front with softer ones on the back (yellow).
The back springs are set up as follows:
On the arms I have three holes I have set them in the middle one, one the top I have four holes I have put it on the third hole from the out side.
The front springs are as follows:
On the arms I have three holes also and they are in the same spot in the middle, on the top I also have four holes it is set at the first hole from the inside of the chassis.
The camber was 2 on the front and 1.5 on the rear, I changed it to 2 all a round.
On the front I have 2 degrees toe out I think ( at the front i have a 1B suspension mount and the standard one at the rear of the front)
On the rear I have toe in A suspension mount on the front of the rear and 1B on th rear of the rear.
I had a red sway bar on the front and a blue on the rear, took the blue off didn't make a difference.
I used a droop gauge and it is set at 6 on the front (was 4) and 4 on the rear (was 2).
Ride height was 5mm all round, tried 27 take offs and 28 sorex's.
I think that is all my settings can someone please HELP me as I am at a loss.
What ever I do it isn't stopping it from spinning.
P.S all the settings were set up on a station.
07-22-2007, 07:35 AM
#25
This may sound odd to all including yourself. You have described your setup fairly well. Can you post a picture? Maybe a picture can give everyone a thousand words.
What tires are you running?
How old are they (dry rott)?
Are your cleaning and saucing them?
Are shocks full of oil?
Same viscosity oil all around?
Same pistons in front/rear shocks?
Keep in mind tires are about 70% of your setup. Shocks maybe 15%. The car is doing something that a beginners car would do. Are you staying within a reasonable driving line? If the car's tires pick up dust/debries it takes a lap or two to fall off. If you continue to go way out of the line. Try slowing down some. Slow is fast and is often a good piece of advice.
Some advice has been very good. For it to still do the same thing is odd. Front diff and free suspension should have helped. Tweaked car is also a common problem.
Just my 2 cents. Hope you can get the car going properly.
What tires are you running?
How old are they (dry rott)?
Are your cleaning and saucing them?
Are shocks full of oil?
Same viscosity oil all around?
Same pistons in front/rear shocks?
Keep in mind tires are about 70% of your setup. Shocks maybe 15%. The car is doing something that a beginners car would do. Are you staying within a reasonable driving line? If the car's tires pick up dust/debries it takes a lap or two to fall off. If you continue to go way out of the line. Try slowing down some. Slow is fast and is often a good piece of advice.
Some advice has been very good. For it to still do the same thing is odd. Front diff and free suspension should have helped. Tweaked car is also a common problem.
Just my 2 cents. Hope you can get the car going properly.
07-22-2007, 09:21 AM
#26
I had the same problem with my old car. Everyone at my track tried everything we could, wasnt til I decided to get new bearings all around that the problem went away. Even the slightest bind can affect the car in a dramatic way. Check your diffs too.
07-22-2007, 09:49 AM
#27
I had a very similar problem.........I must admit, I feel for you as it is just a maddening problem............on mine, the problem was solved when I changed my bearings and loosened my diff to a very loose setting......just as the previous post mentions, too. My diff seems to tighten up after each run so I always check it before my runs to loosen it up.
One thing I don't remember seeing in this thread.......what's your track like? Low grip? high grip? Tight corners?
One thing I don't remember seeing in this thread.......what's your track like? Low grip? high grip? Tight corners?
07-22-2007, 04:55 PM
#28
The track is newly laid asphalt so high grip, it is a fairly big track the straight is about 50 meters long. Here is some links to pictures of the track.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5656581...7594583126673/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5656581...7594583126673/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5656581...7594583126673/
As for the dampers what is the difference between 2 holes on the disk inside to three holes?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5656581...7594583126673/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5656581...7594583126673/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5656581...7594583126673/
As for the dampers what is the difference between 2 holes on the disk inside to three holes?
07-22-2007, 05:25 PM
#29
skyline,
how about trying this;
1) your rear toe in is not enough! A-B combi is too little, you need at least XB-D, this shall bring it to 3°
2) If this fails, I believe your chassis may be tweaked - either the front or rear is bent up.
how about trying this;
1) your rear toe in is not enough! A-B combi is too little, you need at least XB-D, this shall bring it to 3°
2) If this fails, I believe your chassis may be tweaked - either the front or rear is bent up.
07-23-2007, 12:26 AM
#30
bump