BMI's DB12R
#6736
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
There isnt much that can be fault on the shock. If you install the shock shaft with a dry Oring you can damage the Oring but thats the only part that can leak.
45 wt. is going to be too light for most conditions. 50-60 wt. is going to be around 30-35 in the IRS shock. 45 is going to be more like 20-25 wt.
45 wt. is going to be too light for most conditions. 50-60 wt. is going to be around 30-35 in the IRS shock. 45 is going to be more like 20-25 wt.
#6737
crc front
sorry for the change.
i have been reading through the thread and was wondering if anybody has run the crc pro-strut(?) front. the group i race with has been using it on other cars.
if yes - did you like it?, what set up?
Thanks
i have been reading through the thread and was wondering if anybody has run the crc pro-strut(?) front. the group i race with has been using it on other cars.
if yes - did you like it?, what set up?
Thanks
#6738
Tech Champion
Darnold and I are running the CRC Pro Strut front end on our DB12RRs with the optional long upper arm conversion on them. It definately does have a couple things design wise that are odd but the overall design is very good and works very well.
#6739
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
Okay, I will take it apart, inspect the o-ring and rebuild it. I'll meet in the middle on the oil and put 55 weight in it. Sound okay? But I have been running 45 weight in it and it handles awesome, is it going to make the car handle allot different? Thanks for all your help Jason, I appreciate it. Other than the shock, the car is the best I have ever driven.
#6740
Ran my db12rr last night and all i can say is wow. Great Job Jason. The first db12r was good but it just seem like this car was just smooth all around the track. I was able to find a grove and just sit in it.
Great product man
Great product man
#6741
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
So today using the setup discussed in the previous page(s) the BMI at the hands of a so so driver claimed the fastest lap, and average 5/10/20 fastest laps of each qualifier and a main. By nearly 7/10ths in one of the qualifiers.
I had some traffic issues and brain fade issues in the main and came in 3 tenths behind 2nd place (I made up over 11 seconds on him in 15 laps). The first place guy was running a 1/10th WGT car... so that doesnt really count.
Fantastic setup! a bit twitchy if you get off the line, but very good none the less! I am keeping this setup static for a few races now to help refine it a bit or test out different saucing on the tires. I was saucing the inner half of the lilac fronts, and the middle of the Yellow rears (maybe about 50% of the tire). This helped keep the rear end free enough to slide while not causing much push. The fronts also didnt gum up much.
I threw a SMC lipo pack in it after the race in the same 4 cell setup and the car was incredibly pointy (expected) and twitchy, but only 4/10ths off the 4 cell pace with a 17.5 still.
On a sad note I did some how lose one of the battery retainer screws... so now I gotta source 2 of those lil guys...
I had some traffic issues and brain fade issues in the main and came in 3 tenths behind 2nd place (I made up over 11 seconds on him in 15 laps). The first place guy was running a 1/10th WGT car... so that doesnt really count.
Fantastic setup! a bit twitchy if you get off the line, but very good none the less! I am keeping this setup static for a few races now to help refine it a bit or test out different saucing on the tires. I was saucing the inner half of the lilac fronts, and the middle of the Yellow rears (maybe about 50% of the tire). This helped keep the rear end free enough to slide while not causing much push. The fronts also didnt gum up much.
I threw a SMC lipo pack in it after the race in the same 4 cell setup and the car was incredibly pointy (expected) and twitchy, but only 4/10ths off the 4 cell pace with a 17.5 still.
On a sad note I did some how lose one of the battery retainer screws... so now I gotta source 2 of those lil guys...
Last edited by Clegg; 01-11-2009 at 04:58 PM.
#6743
Tech Champion
I find even if I wipe off the tires as best as I can there still is some excess traction compound that needs to be worn off. This can cause the car to be a bit twitchy for the first few laps. I'll usually try to turn a few laps right before lining up to get the tires right.
#6744
http://www.rc-oval.com/how-to/37-how-to/121-hps2-shock
I've been using it for quite awhile now. It is an excelent front end once you get it all setup which takes a touch longer than the AE one. A couple of things that I have had issues with: One is with the kingpins backing out, this has been happening even with the brass set screws. I'm not sure if its a wear issue or perhaps because I bought this very soon after thay came out and perhaps it has been fixed since. The other issue is that with Jasons new front springs I have a constant preload. I'm using Jaco prizms but I cannot set the kingpin low enough to eliminate this.
#6745
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I find even if I wipe off the tires as best as I can there still is some excess traction compound that needs to be worn off. This can cause the car to be a bit twitchy for the first few laps. I'll usually try to turn a few laps right before lining up to get the tires right.
#6746
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I find even if I wipe off the tires as best as I can there still is some excess traction compound that needs to be worn off. This can cause the car to be a bit twitchy for the first few laps. I'll usually try to turn a few laps right before lining up to get the tires right.
#6747
Tech Champion
Well it's not so much as cleaning them...I'm not so sure using lighter fluid right before a run would be a good idea. I can see doing that after the run.
Yeah I figured as much Adrian...I'll have to remember that when I go run on carpet. On our asphalt there is so much sugar water sprayed that it works better to run the car a bit.
Yeah I figured as much Adrian...I'll have to remember that when I go run on carpet. On our asphalt there is so much sugar water sprayed that it works better to run the car a bit.
#6748
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Well it's not so much as cleaning them...I'm not so sure using lighter fluid right before a run would be a good idea. I can see doing that after the run.
Yeah I figured as much Adrian...I'll have to remember that when I go run on carpet. On our asphalt there is so much sugar water sprayed that it works better to run the car a bit.
Yeah I figured as much Adrian...I'll have to remember that when I go run on carpet. On our asphalt there is so much sugar water sprayed that it works better to run the car a bit.
#6749
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
What I use most of the time is just a paper towel and some motor spray. Fold the paper towel over a few times, and spray it with the motor spray. Then just whipe the tire on the towel until you see the dark black stripes starting to fade.
Seems to work pretty good for me.
So on another topic:
The track I run at has about a month inbetween points series... so I have this month to play and test some stuff. I am going to document my setup for 4 cell and then spend the rest of this month testing LiPo in the car. I want to use this very solid 4 cell setup as the base and work from there. The front end is quite nice for 4 cell, I am thinking some lighter juice on the king pins (Shure Lube 3?), with most changes happening in the rear. Thoughts, ideas?
The LiPo will be mounted as far back as the flex plates allow. The car w/o body rings in at 677 grams I dont plan on moving much of the hardware on the chassis around (electronics) because I want to be able to switch between LiPo and 4 cell with ease.
* = things already changed from the 4 cell setup
? = Things I need some suggestions on.
Front:
5 degree block w/ 4 degree castor
.020 linear springs and Shure Lube 3 *
3.5mm ride height
servo flat w/ medium ballstuds on the steering blocks
Lilac front tires (Jacon Prism stock height)
.25mm droop (2 Shims above the upper pivot ball and one shim above the steering knuckle)
Servo mounted forward with the ball studs on the back of the servo saver
-2 Deg Camber
Neutral Toe
About 1 degree of toe in bump steer.
Rear:
Gold center shock spring ? - go to a lighter spring?
Silva shock w/ 60 wt Trinity oil ? - Ligher shock oil?
Medium ballstud on shock mount w/ 1.5mm worth of spacers
LiPo as far back as it can go
30K in the tubes ?
Stock flex plates mounted in short position ? - Move back to long? or keep as short?
no tweak screws
Yellow rear tires (at full Jaco Prism size)
172mm rear width
1mm pod droop
Pod Level at ride height
3.5 - 4mm ride height
Novak 13.5 BL*
Pinion ? - I need to do some testing on gearing, but I am thinking of running 40 - 45T
Spur: 78
Body - Parma Speed 8*
Seems to work pretty good for me.
So on another topic:
The track I run at has about a month inbetween points series... so I have this month to play and test some stuff. I am going to document my setup for 4 cell and then spend the rest of this month testing LiPo in the car. I want to use this very solid 4 cell setup as the base and work from there. The front end is quite nice for 4 cell, I am thinking some lighter juice on the king pins (Shure Lube 3?), with most changes happening in the rear. Thoughts, ideas?
The LiPo will be mounted as far back as the flex plates allow. The car w/o body rings in at 677 grams I dont plan on moving much of the hardware on the chassis around (electronics) because I want to be able to switch between LiPo and 4 cell with ease.
* = things already changed from the 4 cell setup
? = Things I need some suggestions on.
Front:
5 degree block w/ 4 degree castor
.020 linear springs and Shure Lube 3 *
3.5mm ride height
servo flat w/ medium ballstuds on the steering blocks
Lilac front tires (Jacon Prism stock height)
.25mm droop (2 Shims above the upper pivot ball and one shim above the steering knuckle)
Servo mounted forward with the ball studs on the back of the servo saver
-2 Deg Camber
Neutral Toe
About 1 degree of toe in bump steer.
Rear:
Gold center shock spring ? - go to a lighter spring?
Silva shock w/ 60 wt Trinity oil ? - Ligher shock oil?
Medium ballstud on shock mount w/ 1.5mm worth of spacers
LiPo as far back as it can go
30K in the tubes ?
Stock flex plates mounted in short position ? - Move back to long? or keep as short?
no tweak screws
Yellow rear tires (at full Jaco Prism size)
172mm rear width
1mm pod droop
Pod Level at ride height
3.5 - 4mm ride height
Novak 13.5 BL*
Pinion ? - I need to do some testing on gearing, but I am thinking of running 40 - 45T
Spur: 78
Body - Parma Speed 8*
#6750
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
I am about to do some lipo testing with the 3.7 lipo. I am going to try this setup
Front
5 degree blocks with 4 degree castor
.020 front spring w/ #3 on the kingpins
angled servo
2x pink fronts cut to 1.700 1/2 inside sauce
2 degrees camber
0 toe
3.5mm ride height
.25mm droop
Rear
lipo back as far as possible
Thin flex plates in long position w/ set screw installed but not touching chassis
#3 in the tubes
Gold spring w/ 50 wt. oil in the silva shock
Tall ballstud on shock mount
2 x pink rear tire cut to 1.800
1mm pod droop
3.5mm ride height
pod level
I will see how this runs and let you know.
Front
5 degree blocks with 4 degree castor
.020 front spring w/ #3 on the kingpins
angled servo
2x pink fronts cut to 1.700 1/2 inside sauce
2 degrees camber
0 toe
3.5mm ride height
.25mm droop
Rear
lipo back as far as possible
Thin flex plates in long position w/ set screw installed but not touching chassis
#3 in the tubes
Gold spring w/ 50 wt. oil in the silva shock
Tall ballstud on shock mount
2 x pink rear tire cut to 1.800
1mm pod droop
3.5mm ride height
pod level
I will see how this runs and let you know.