BMI's DB12R
#6706
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
My setup: (editing Jasons setup)
Front:
5 degree block w/ 4 degree castor
.020 linear springs and 30K on the kingpins
3.5mm ride height
servo flat w/ medium ballstuds on the steering blocks
Lilac front tires (Jacon Prism stock height)
.25mm droop (I think this is how much droop, but not exactly sure - I was in a rush when I was testing this)
Servo mounted forward with the ball studs on the back of the servo saver
-1.5 Deg Camber
Neutral Toe
Rear:
Gold center shock spring
Silva shock w/ 60 wt Trinity oil
Medium ballstud on shock mount w/ 1.5mm worth of spacers
batteries in the middle
30K in the tubes
Stock flex plates mounted in short position
no tweak screws
Yellow rear tires (at full Jaco Prism size)
172mm rear width
1mm pod droop
Pod Level at ride height
4.0mm ride height
Novak 17.5 BL
Pinion: 45
Spur: 78
Body - Protoform Speed 12
I have 10K and I have 30K silicone, and the hobby store says they cant order 20K cause they cant find it. They also dont know know where to get Sure lube from. Not entirely sure I am going to start experimenting and mixing 10 and 30K to get 20K.
Front:
5 degree block w/ 4 degree castor
.020 linear springs and 30K on the kingpins
3.5mm ride height
servo flat w/ medium ballstuds on the steering blocks
Lilac front tires (Jacon Prism stock height)
.25mm droop (I think this is how much droop, but not exactly sure - I was in a rush when I was testing this)
Servo mounted forward with the ball studs on the back of the servo saver
-1.5 Deg Camber
Neutral Toe
Rear:
Gold center shock spring
Silva shock w/ 60 wt Trinity oil
Medium ballstud on shock mount w/ 1.5mm worth of spacers
batteries in the middle
30K in the tubes
Stock flex plates mounted in short position
no tweak screws
Yellow rear tires (at full Jaco Prism size)
172mm rear width
1mm pod droop
Pod Level at ride height
4.0mm ride height
Novak 17.5 BL
Pinion: 45
Spur: 78
Body - Protoform Speed 12
I have 10K and I have 30K silicone, and the hobby store says they cant order 20K cause they cant find it. They also dont know know where to get Sure lube from. Not entirely sure I am going to start experimenting and mixing 10 and 30K to get 20K.
Losi makes 20K diff lube so you can ask your shop to try them as it sounds like Jason and the gang have you just about dialed.
Just curious, have you tried the longer position on the flex plates (no tweak screws) with the batteries back? If so what did you think?
#6707
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
I used to run the long flex plates and the batteries a bit further back, but I also had the servo different up front, and no king pin lub on the front, and 10K in the rear. So I am not really sure if I can compare the setups at all. The more run time I get on this setup the more I can experiement a bit.
I noticed a bit of pitching and excessive chassis roll with the plates in the long config. Where on high bite areas of the track I would get the car to lift a rear wheel and diff out on some tight corners. Stiffening up the damper tubes and going to the short plates with the rest of the changes I made fixed that entirely it seems.
I noticed a bit of pitching and excessive chassis roll with the plates in the long config. Where on high bite areas of the track I would get the car to lift a rear wheel and diff out on some tight corners. Stiffening up the damper tubes and going to the short plates with the rest of the changes I made fixed that entirely it seems.
#6708
Tech Regular
Lower suspension arms WEAK LINK ??????
Any reported problems using the kit lower suspension arms.How do you over come the ball slop.
Also doesnt seem to to be much meat on the screw fixings .Has any one replaced these with the IRS AE lower arms.
The one good advantage of the BMI arms is theya are not handed
Also doesnt seem to to be much meat on the screw fixings .Has any one replaced these with the IRS AE lower arms.
The one good advantage of the BMI arms is theya are not handed
#6710
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
An old trick for front lower arm ball slop is to pop the ball in the arm and then take a pair of slip jaw pliers and pinch the arm on the sides of ball socket. Usually only takes one pinch, but don't go over board, you can always pinch it again until the slop is gone. If you go to far the ball will bind.
#6712
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
smokeshow86. you change reactive caster by changing the caster blocks. they come in 0,5,10 degrees. this is how much camber gain you have as the suspension travels. your static caster is adjusted with the upper arm shims. both shims in front is 2 degrees, 1 in front and 1 in back is 4 degrees, and both shims in back is 6 degrees. front droop is adjusted with your king pin shims. the less shims the more droop. if your running the linear springs run 1 gold shim on top of knuckle and 2 on top of arm. this is with standard king pins
#6713
Tech Regular
shock length ?????
Just built my BMI 12RR Following instructions to the letter.If you make the shock 66m as suggested it is far too short.
So what is the recommended lenght from cup to cup.
Also are you running pod and chassis level off .
Also does any one use locktite on the screws holding the L-Plates to the chassis.
Also what do the Alan screws on top of the ball pivot do.??????
Also strange no anti roll mast and only one servo mount.Not a problem but inconvient.
So what is the recommended lenght from cup to cup.
Also are you running pod and chassis level off .
Also does any one use locktite on the screws holding the L-Plates to the chassis.
Also what do the Alan screws on top of the ball pivot do.??????
Also strange no anti roll mast and only one servo mount.Not a problem but inconvient.
#6714
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Just built my BMI 12RR Following instructions to the letter.If you make the shock 66m as suggested it is far too short.
So what is the recommended lenght from cup to cup.
Also are you running pod and chassis level off .
Also does any one use locktite on the screws holding the L-Plates to the chassis.
Also what do the Alan screws on top of the ball pivot do.??????
Also strange no anti roll mast and only one servo mount.Not a problem but inconvient.
So what is the recommended lenght from cup to cup.
Also are you running pod and chassis level off .
Also does any one use locktite on the screws holding the L-Plates to the chassis.
Also what do the Alan screws on top of the ball pivot do.??????
Also strange no anti roll mast and only one servo mount.Not a problem but inconvient.
#6715
66 mm was probably length for the old car. What I am using on the RR conversion is ~83.5mm long shock with 2nd and 3rd antena post mounting points when looking from front.
#6716
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Much more meat for the screws and you can still lower down to run the wheels on the rims if you wanted. You also dont need to use nearly as many shims for ride height.
#6717
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Oh and BTW I got in the Shure Lube today and switched form 30K to the #4 Red. It feels very similar, but we shal see how it goes tomorrow. I got a bottle of #3 and #4.
#6718
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
I have the new silva center shock, and I am having problems with it. First I couldn't seem to build it without it getting air in it or sounding squishy. I mentioned that on this thread and got some building tips that seemed to work. But after a day of racing it makes that squishy noise until I rebuild it again, and then it is fine until I race again. Any help would be appreciated. I am currently looking to replace it with another shock. Will the nickel teflon macro shock (part #DB3060) work on the DB12RR or is that for the 1/10th scale pan car?
#6719
Tech Elite
iTrader: (64)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Conducting aggressive board meetings at my local track
Posts: 3,301
Trader Rating: 64 (100%+)
I spoke to Dave Irrgang abut the breakage issue with the lower arms. From our conversation, I learned the titanium screws may be slightly larger in diameter compared to the aluminum screws supplied with the arms. I am running on the original IRS arms supplied with my DB12RR since October and have tested the durability thoroughly. I also pre tapped the holes, I believe this is a big help. I also run the aluminum screws in the front end. Yes I do tweak a screw at least one a week, but they're cheap and act as a stress point.
#6720
Tech Champion
Makes sense...I ran the original aluminum screws that came with the IRS arms...That with the BMI spacers is what I think stopped my breakage issues when I was still running those arms