Casey

iTrader: (5)

The 360 race in NYC was great. The car was even better. The track was very smooth, high grip, with a great layout.

someone asked, so i will post for all

The tune-ability of the car was great, just kept looking for a little more each round, and the car responded. Got lucky enough to set, and reset tq each round.
ended up with
D pink front- 20 springs- 10k lube-castor shimms back- 3/4 Paragon
servo flat
ceneter shock 40 wt-copper spring-tall ballstud
batts back
Standard flex plates- 10k in the tubes
Grey rears

45.8 mm rollout Co27

Speed 12 body

In the main, was a little ruff at the start, but when i pushed the car really hard ,the new chassis brace helped the car to be very precise, and predictable ,to run it back to the front.

Kave

iTrader: (17)

I ran the same thing this weekend on a low/med bite track, only exceptions being yellow rears and lilac fronts.

I do have a question about traction rolling. I was TQ and the car was amazing fast, untill the main. I put on a new set of tires, lilac fronts and yellow rears, trued to 45mm.
After I put the new tires on and went out my car traction rolled the entire main. It almost spun as well as a Top, someone suggested that maby I had to much compound on the front tires and it was rolling on the fronts, using 2/3 paragon. Any other ideas?

protc3

iTrader: (13)

the fronts may have been too big. I normally run 1.750 rear and 1.650 fronts. When the bite gets high i go even smaller than that with a 1.700 rear and 1.600 front. You can try glueing the sidewall also if you need to but i dont think you will

RcLoCo Online

build question

in the rear the 2flex plate <side> assembly's it says the plate should move freely, wich mine does only to freely it seems i get 1/8 of play going up?should i sand the housings a bit to tighten the gap on the pivot ball. Thankyou in advance!

Tommy

protc3

iTrader: (13)

There are 2 set screws included with the kit that go in the holes in the flex plate over the pivot ball. You want to tighten them until there is a very small amount of verticle play. This is an adjustment that ensures a slop free pivot.

protc3

iTrader: (13)

make sure you have the 2 small delrin ball washers on top of the pivot balls so the set screw only touches the washer to eliminate the play

punkracer24

iTrader: (13)

J u got pm

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Step 14 explains it in the instruction manual buddy

RcLoCo Online

are we referring to the 2 small chrome grub screws in a bag by them self?and im assuming i can screw them in from the topwithout dissambly?sorry im not the best mech, and no labeling on the bags makes it kinda hard for me to deterime whats what! Thanx ill give it a shot

protc3

iTrader: (13)

That is correct. They are 2 shiny screws that are 10-32 set screws. They can go in with the car assembled. Just make sure they go in straight.

Apex

iTrader: (51)

Screw the grub screw in as flat as possible so it puts equal pressure on the black ball cap piece that sits on top of the pivot ball.

RcLoCo Online

got it all is well!thanx i can drive my a$$ off just this 1/12 is new so again thanx cars looking real good, 360 this sunday:^)also i have the sphere 07' and orion 10.5 whats a good starting point for pinion ill run my tires low like you suggested in previous post's

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Im not sure on the orion but on the novak i gear it at 56mm roll out. From what i have heard the orion is geared 1 or 2 teeth less. I will see if i can get some info on that for you to be certain.

RcLoCo Online

so whats a good starting point teeth wise 31 32 33?

protc3

iTrader: (13)

With a novak i gear it at 88/35 with a 1.75 rear tire. 33 with the orion would be right if i am correct on running 2 teeth less.