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Old 09-02-2007, 07:54 PM   #1066
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I just ran the car for the first time today, and it was ridiculous. I don't think I have ever had a 1/12 car run that good with a box setup. Easy to drive, great steering, yet stable, sailed through the corners.

I ran a stock motor at first, and then jumped to an 8 turn for the rest of my runs. The amazing part was that the car drove the same, it was just faster. That makes me think the setup window is huge on the car. darnold was at the track with his car, and I tried a couple of his small changes to see what they would do. The car just got better.

Admittedly, there was only a light groove on the track. If we can maintain this driveability in high traction situations, it's gonna be on all winter.
Jason and PW learned a lot about what to do to the DB12R when the traction comes up at this last Minnreg Carpet race. The changes are minimal but very effective. Its all about letting the chassis roll and absorb the weight transfer so the tires don't dig. I will let Jason fill in the details since I was not there.
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Old 09-02-2007, 08:07 PM   #1067
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
I just ran the car for the first time today, and it was ridiculous. I don't think I have ever had a 1/12 car run that good with a box setup. Easy to drive, great steering, yet stable, sailed through the corners.

I ran a stock motor at first, and then jumped to an 8 turn for the rest of my runs. The amazing part was that the car drove the same, it was just faster. That makes me think the setup window is huge on the car. darnold was at the track with his car, and I tried a couple of his small changes to see what they would do. The car just got better.

Admittedly, there was only a light groove on the track. If we can maintain this driveability in high traction situations, it's gonna be on all winter.

that is awesome bro. i am really glad that you guys are getting to run the cars now.we are experiencing the same thing.the car has a large window of right.the setup we have on the car is a safe and fast setup.we did make a few changes for when the bite came up.we softened the car up a little and it kept the tires from digging.i just spoke to darnold and he filled me in on your guys runs.i am glad that we have the car running on the rug more often.we get to run it on the rug occasionally but not often.each time out you will find that the car is very easy to manipulate.keep us posted on your experiences buddy.im glad to hear that you like the car.
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Old 09-02-2007, 08:26 PM   #1068
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I love this car. Some of the changes tried today really seemed to make the car come alive even more than it already was, will have to talk to PW or Xavier to see what to do for high bite if it needs more.

A few of the adjustments were:
-7k in the damper tubes
-Moved the tubes to the forward set of holes on the plate (near the shock)
-.060"/side wider front track

Ran T.M. Tires' new Purple Fronts with their Magenta Rears. The new T.M. Purples although a 45 durometer "feel" soft, like their old magentas and may be similar to a Jaco lilac. They bite a lot more than the older purples but are still smooth.
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Old 09-03-2007, 12:43 AM   #1069
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But why yellow and orange wires? I would of done black

Thats another speed secret by the famous, "Jason Breiner"

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Old 09-03-2007, 02:23 AM   #1070
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Yeah, finally received my car! It came out a bit more expensive than I thought, but ouh well... Jason, you still forgot to do, what we talked about.. so I had to pay some additional money.. But on the opther hand, my car now is 100$ better than the others :P But still, it's all worth that! Getting to assembly!
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Old 09-03-2007, 04:31 AM   #1071
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WHAT!! i will speak to my wife about this.i made it a point to tell her that we were to decrease the value for shipping.if the guy at the post office screwed up i will try to get your money back from them.sorry for the confusion
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Old 09-03-2007, 04:43 AM   #1072
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Heading up to the asphalt indoor track today for day 2 of testing...

I think I have an idea what you might be doing for the racer upgrade but I hate to be wrong.. Soo I'll just wait... BTW I've changed the ball cups for the stering turnbuckle ( ones that a racer gave me for my old car, SRW141 of WYD I ferget cuz I'm old... ) and the fit is perfect. I need to find out who make them because they are exactly what the car needs.. loose enough not to bind and tight enough not to just pop off...
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Old 09-03-2007, 08:00 AM   #1073
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I know setup guide is in the work, but I can't wait to ask...

Side damper tub, what's effect to use heavier oil, ex: 5000wt vs 10000wt
Front kingpin, what's effect to use heavier oild, ex: 5000wt vs 10000wt

My guess the front will be similar to heavier damping oil in damper for touring. But side damper I'd no idea at all... Newbie to 1/12....
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Old 09-03-2007, 08:55 AM   #1074
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oil on the kingpins dampens the kingpins and when used will make the front end more predictable.it makes the front end not so springy and eratic.there is not much weight in the front of a 1/12th car and it can get real erratic at times.the car has a tendency to have an on power push with no lube on the kingpins.tube dampening works the same way but for the side spring tension.the thicker the dampening,the more steering you will get due to more weight being transfered to the front tire during a roll.springs absorb weight transfer and this will limit how much side weight tranfer is absorbed and how much is transfered to the tire.i always try to get a good balance between front and rear to keep the reaction of the car fast.thick dampening can give you alot of steering but it can slow the car down in transitions and sometimes lift an inside rear tire if it is too thick
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Old 09-03-2007, 08:59 AM   #1075
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I know setup guide is in the work, but I can't wait to ask...

Side damper tub, what's effect to use heavier oil, ex: 5000wt vs 10000wt

This mostly affect the cars reaction speed. Tight tracks with lots of quick direction changes need lighter damping than flowing tracks.

Side damping also effects chassis roll. Lighter damping on high traction tracks will make the tires dig less and make the car less likely to traction roll.

If the car is not traction rolling heavier damping can give you a touch more steering but if you go to far the car will not want to stop turning after a steering input and this can really hurt you in chicanes.

The damper tubes are designed for 1,000-10,000wt oil. We normally run 5000wt all the time. I don't think we have ever used anything heavier than 7000wt. We tested 10,000wt and didn't like it at all.


Front kingpin, what's effect to use heavier oild, ex: 5000wt vs 10000wt

This slows down the steering response so the car is less darty.
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Old 09-03-2007, 09:01 AM   #1076
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Do'h! He beat me to it!
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Old 09-03-2007, 09:03 AM   #1077
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you think im fast now,wait until next weekend.
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Old 09-03-2007, 09:44 AM   #1078
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Huh..... so when you increasing kingpin oil thick, the tub increasing as well? Or it's completly seperated thing?
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Old 09-03-2007, 09:54 AM   #1079
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5000 wt is pretty much a standard that i go with for the kingpins.the tube oil i adjust for the track conditions.once i get to the track i will mess with mostly just tube dampening
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Old 09-03-2007, 11:26 AM   #1080
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I usually start off with no king pin lube. Unlike the damper tubes it's something that you need to keep on top of run-to-run. If it seems the king pins are getting dry or too dirty I blow everything off with motor spray (remove the tires of course!) and relube.

At club races this means before quailfying and before the main. At the big races like Snowbirds....I clean and relube every run. There is no sense being lazy after paying the big entry fee and not sleeping for a week.
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