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Old 12-16-2012, 01:11 PM   #8701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
That is a db12rr. It is the same as the r version with a few updates. You have the option of running long or short flex plates. This car does run very well. The shock mount has multiple mount positions. That shock will work fine. Cut the ballcups at the mounting hole end to shorten them to achieve the correct shock length.
Thanks everyone for the help... nice to know I am at least newer and not older.

I will hopefully get a RR manual to see what I might be missing..

James
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:55 AM   #8702
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Default servo for this car

Hi again people,

Ok, transferring some stuff over from the l3 to the rr - front end is the same.

I have my Hitec 225mg for this - only mini(micro) servo I have right now.

I would prefer something I can mount flat - I have seen some mounted reverse between the suspension up front.. what servo can do this?

can you run the servo off center and just run a longer and shorter arm? Not sure on pan cars how that works.. flat and stright line is best .. but only way I fit the 225mg at the moment is angled and back.. which is not leaving me a ton of room for electrics.

James
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:15 AM   #8703
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Finding room for electronics is the quest of pretty much everyone in 1/12th scale. If you want to mount the servo flat without turning it around the servo mounts should have an angled side and a flat side...if you got the BMI servo mounts with the car. If you put the receiver behind the servo and the ESC on the non-servo side of the car you should have just enough room even with a big receiver. If you really want to mount the servo up front between the suspension it will need to be narrow enough to fit between and still have the spline centered. If it is not centered you will have more steering to one side than to the other. On the CRC car to get many of the micro servos to fit they have to cut off the mounting ears on one side and servo tape the servo to the chassis. Personally I don't recommend servo tape on a servo as I've had many come off over the years. If your going to do this I'd recommend Shoe Goo. It holds awesome and when you want it to come off you just have to slice it with an Xacto knife and it prys off. That brings us to another issue though...the hole in the chassis between the front suspension. That will make it difficult to mount the servo there so you may need to fabricate something to cover the hole.

This may help...it's a pic of my old DB12RR (I believe) with the Serpent front end on it. It will show you the standard layout of how most people mount the electronics in the car and have it still fit.

http://s351.beta.photobucket.com/use...ml?sort=3&o=56

And here's how I had it setup with a flat servo that was Shoe Goo'd to the chassis:

http://s351.beta.photobucket.com/use...ml?sort=3&o=62
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Old 12-17-2012, 02:34 PM   #8704
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Which body is that in the pics? Looks good.
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Old 12-17-2012, 05:30 PM   #8705
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Which body is that in the pics? Looks good.
A few yrs ago there was an ebay seller; mr lexan I think was the sellers name. He was pulling that style of body from his own molds if I remember correctly. I have a couple of those as yet unpainted; thay look cool but not sure how well it would work on the track.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:36 PM   #8706
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Which body is that in the pics? Looks good.
The red and white one is from that guy on ebay Chris mentioned. The black with neon flames is a Parma Speed 8 and the white with pink flames is a Parma Speed 8 HD.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:12 AM   #8707
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OK thank you both. I only got as far as the ebay car. I'll have to take another look.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:05 AM   #8708
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The ebay one looked interesting so I tried it out. It isn't bad looking but you have to cut the bottom so that the body sits higher or it will not clear the tires if you are running full sized tires like we do on asphalt. So it looks kinda odd because of that. On carpet with smaller tires it would probably look better. Unfortunately the handling isn't all that good with the body so I didn't run it for long. Ended up being more of a shelf body.
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Old 12-22-2012, 06:18 PM   #8709
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If anyone is looking for some parts for their first gen DB12R, I have a small collection looking for a new home.

BMI DB12R parts lot
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:07 AM   #8710
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Hi Just bought a db12r, my 2st 12th and have to say i'm loving it.

It's how I always wanted my GT12 to run I'm running a 13.5t and 1s lipo (that I pop the rr pod shock off to put in)... My question is that the rear corners of my lipo rub up against the flex plates that must interact/impede the rear pod movement.

I was thinking of making a stopper or brace to hold it forward, stopping the lipo from touching the plates. Has anyone done this ?

I was also thinking of purchasing the conversion kit to RR Lipo, but looking at pictures like seems like it may do the same...Any one with a RR lipo kit see there lipo touching the flex plates ?

Also what front strut brace will fit the db12 ?

Sorry if this has been posted already.

Many thanks

Andrew
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:07 AM   #8711
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Hi Just bought a db12r, my 2st 12th and have to say i'm loving it.

It's how I always wanted my GT12 to run I'm running a 13.5t and 1s lipo (that I pop the rr pod shock off to put in)... My question is that the rear corners of my lipo rub up against the flex plates that must interact/impede the rear pod movement.

I was thinking of making a stopper or brace to hold it forward, stopping the lipo from touching the plates. Has anyone done this ?

I was also thinking of purchasing the conversion kit to RR Lipo, but looking at pictures like seems like it may do the same...Any one with a RR lipo kit see there lipo touching the flex plates ?

Also what front strut brace will fit the db12 ?

Sorry if this has been posted already.

Many thanks

Andrew
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:29 AM   #8712
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......................
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Old 07-05-2013, 05:21 AM   #8713
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Default lipo placement

Pic attached

Quote:
Originally Posted by opkin View Post
Hi Just bought a db12r, my 2st 12th and have to say i'm loving it.

It's how I always wanted my GT12 to run I'm running a 13.5t and 1s lipo (that I pop the rr pod shock off to put in)... My question is that the rear corners of my lipo rub up against the flex plates that must interact/impede the rear pod movement.

I was thinking of making a stopper or brace to hold it forward, stopping the lipo from touching the plates. Has anyone done this ?

I was also thinking of purchasing the conversion kit to RR Lipo, but looking at pictures like seems like it may do the same...Any one with a RR lipo kit see there lipo touching the flex plates ?

Also what front strut brace will fit the db12 ?

Sorry if this has been posted already.

Many thanks

Andrew
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BMI's DB12R-top-200909.jpg  
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:31 AM   #8714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opkin View Post
Hi Just bought a db12r, my 2st 12th and have to say i'm loving it.

It's how I always wanted my GT12 to run I'm running a 13.5t and 1s lipo (that I pop the rr pod shock off to put in)... My question is that the rear corners of my lipo rub up against the flex plates that must interact/impede the rear pod movement.

I was thinking of making a stopper or brace to hold it forward, stopping the lipo from touching the plates. Has anyone done this ?

I was also thinking of purchasing the conversion kit to RR Lipo, but looking at pictures like seems like it may do the same...Any one with a RR lipo kit see there lipo touching the flex plates ?

Also what front strut brace will fit the db12 ?

Sorry if this has been posted already.

Many thanks

Andrew
i went thru the 12RR to 12RRlipo to CH12 stages(i have a box of stuff that you can PM me about if you are interested) but taping the battery will be the same situation. instead of a locator, you can add friction between the battery and chassis so when taped it will slide less, and just tape it down a little more forward to avoid the battery fouling the flex plates.
as for a front brace, a 2 piece style like the serpent or others, lets you use orings to adjust the width. i looked at a 12rr chassis and the brace length would need to be about 46mm and the serpent can be 44mm to over 50mm.
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Old 07-06-2013, 12:01 AM   #8715
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Originally Posted by avs View Post
i went thru the 12RR to 12RRlipo to CH12 stages(i have a box of stuff that you can PM me about if you are interested) but taping the battery will be the same situation. instead of a locator, you can add friction between the battery and chassis so when taped it will slide less, and just tape it down a little more forward to avoid the battery fouling the flex plates.
as for a front brace, a 2 piece style like the serpent or others, lets you use orings to adjust the width. i looked at a 12rr chassis and the brace length would need to be about 46mm and the serpent can be 44mm to over 50mm.
Thank you for the info Tony, I will send a PM with regards to bits and bobs. As this is my 1st 12th and I have lots of spares think I will more or less keep it as a 12R for a while and as u suggested increase the friction on the lipo.

I have a front brace on the way also

So do u now run a CH12?
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