Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

Echo???????????

Anyone still running this car?

Looking at a deal for one.. OR a CRC GENX XL - the BMI comes with lots of spares.. the XL none.. but in my area no one runs BMI..

Is this car easy to run and setup? I know its moved onto the copperhead.. but is that because there was issues with this car?

James

protc3

iTrader: (13)

The car runs great. We have evolved with the times as did crc as you can see. The gen xl and db12r are both previous generation cars. They were both top cars during there time of availability but both cars are not the most current from either BMI or CRC. They are still both great cars.

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

Yes I still run my DB12R everynow and then, I run my copperhead on carpet and my serpent on asphalt but this car is still a dream to run. I have run all versions of the BMI (R, then RR, now Copperhead) and hands down this is still my favorite, super smooth and fun not too edgy just easy to drive. If you go with the BMI I suggest that you use the CF hockey sticks instead of the fiberglass ones, the car centers up off corners faster with those over the fiberglass. Nothing wrong with the XL either its still a very good car, for me it was a touch edgy but thats because I like the t-bar feel that the BMI provides over the link/spring feel.

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

OK, so I ended up with the 12r.

I have a new shock to build - so thats good. Front end is associated, so no issues there.

IS there anything I should order a extra few from BMI??

I assume parts are available? Those hockey stick flex bars - do I go through them? I have a carbon set in now I think. I think I have a spare set of FG ones.. though someone coloured them black with permanent marker I think.

looking forward to trying this out.

James

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

I notice there is nothing on the bottom of the chassis to hold the battery in place.

ANy suggestions?

InspGadgt

The 12R had a fiberglass piece that was used to position the old NiMh batteries...That won't work with the new LiPo batteries so you'll need to fashion something of your own. Some people took the fiberglass I piece and cut it in half and mounted it in front of the battery to keep it from moving. Alternatively if you only have the one battery pack and don't mind charging it in the car you could just double stick tape the battery in.

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

The only things I've ever broken on any of my BMI cars is the center football (really hard hit!) and a couple of the hockey sticks. As the hockey sticks act like the side springs in a link/spring car thay do wear out over time and need to be replaced. These are the only two items that I carry spares of. I just use double sided tape to position the batt in place and a thin length of strapping tape to secure it.

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

ok, was looking to build the car tonight.. and I have found that the shock that I got with the car is the Silva Concepts HPS2 shock. I assume its fine to use, but I dont have any ball cups to use with it.. Which ball cups do I use, because the Db12 instructions says to just build the shock according to its own instructions.

I cant even build the HPS2 shock - the eclips on the piston shaft are so small I have no tools small enough to put them on.. ALso I tried to move the shock over from the RC12l3 to this.. WAY TOO SHORT.. the manual says 2.6" shock length - but I have no idea what shock I need to pull this off.

Does the kit come with with an IRS shock?

Thanks
James

InspGadgt

Silva is the standard shock for any of the BMI 1/12th cars. Use the same ball cups that you use for the steering tie rods. Yes unfortunately the e-clips for the shaft are very small...but you'll find that pretty much all the modern 1/12th shocks are that way now. A regular pair of needle nose pliers will work if you are very careful using them.

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

I did not get any spare cups with the used car I picked up. I can make a run to the hobby store today. Can you suggest a product? std cups? rpm? I dont need to worry about small or reg size?

James

LonnyJ1950

They appear to me to be standard Associated ballcups, the original ones.

avs

iTrader: (2)

the 4-40 ball cups are 6274, 14 to a package. they can be a little loose, so use Jason's tip, and pop the ball cup on over a sheet of plastic baggie. (i carry a collection of 3-4 different thickness baggies in my tool box)

some people are using the tc6 part 31305 because they fit a little better, but i don't see how to tune out slop with them.

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

Well unfortunately, working at this more, it would seem my issue is bigger than ball cups. It would seem what I have is a left overs parts car, this is a dogs breakfast.

Here are some pics, if you can let me know what I have it would be helpful. If anyone has a pdf version of a straight DB12 - no R manual.. I think that might help. I think thats more what I might have here.

Think this was a waist of money myself.

https://plus.google.com/photos/10495...11959889729969

protc3

iTrader: (13)

That is a db12rr. It is the same as the r version with a few updates. You have the option of running long or short flex plates. This car does run very well. The shock mount has multiple mount positions. That shock will work fine. Cut the ballcups at the mounting hole end to shorten them to achieve the correct shock length.

InspGadgt

Well from the pictures it looks like you have all the parts you need. The shock length listed is just a starting point and for an older version of the car. The shock mount is adjustable in position so you will need to trim the ball cups to the right length for whichever shock mount position you choose. Trim the ball cups so that when they are screwed all the way on you can put the shock on and the rear pod sits level with the chassis. From there you can tune in how much droop you want by loosening the ball cups to make the shock longer. Parts car or not it is still a good car once you get it set up.