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Old 01-16-2010, 08:29 AM   #8266
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punkracer, you planning on running 17.5 or 10.5,
probably 10.5 cuz i dont have a 17.5 motor but if i cant get tires at the race i just wont run. after doing a little reading sounds like a lot of people are having trouble getting jaco tires
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Old 01-17-2010, 07:30 AM   #8267
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2 degrees of toe out is going to make the car hard to drive. Try to keep it at 0-.5 per side. I like to run a red center spring and the tall ball stud. Make sure your pod is level at ride height. This should make a drastic improvement on the handling
can i get more info on the "pod level at ride height"?
why - what it does - how to measure

i have set my cars different and looking to learn more.
my car 3.5 front 3.75 mid 4.0 back
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Old 01-17-2010, 08:42 AM   #8268
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can i get more info on the "pod level at ride height"?
why - what it does - how to measure

i have set my cars different and looking to learn more.
my car 3.5 front 3.75 mid 4.0 back
he means that all four corners of the pod should at the same ride height. set the pod plate flat, so if you are running some rake (front a tad lower than the rear) the pod is still setup flat.
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Old 01-17-2010, 04:25 PM   #8269
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So today was a great and a pretty par for the course day...

The great part: Won the main, and set fast lap for the entire day... all classes. Proving my theory that if the BMI is setup perfectly, the car is an absolute missile and one of the best out there.

The par part:
On the last lap in the main I tagged the pipe in the last big sweeper and snapped another flex plate ball cup.. this damn near crippled my car, but I limped it around and still crossed the line .1 sec ahead of P2. So I won, and because of the sizeable lead I worked up, did it with a car that wouldn’t turn in one direction. The reason the car went wide into the pipe was by the last lap the fronts had fuzzed over a bit and became just a handful to keep tight on corners.

My theory so far with the BMI is: This car is very touchy... if its setup right, its ballistic, and easy to drive (feels almost slow it’s so easy and smooth). But the car is a beast to get there... definitely more setup and hand holding required to get the car to that stage. The car feels much more sensitive about weight placement, and any kind of tweak than other cars which are overall easier to null out I think. Using the set screws/tweak screws on the BMI is awful, and changes the suspension dynamics far too much to be of any use for balancing the car. Last couple weeks I was miserable trying to get the BMI into shape... busting parts, not having any consistent stability or control, and overall just hunting for a setup. Then I found one for the kind of track we are running and it laid it down quite nicely.

Edit: the only way to make any kind of "tweak screw" that really just changes tweak and not suspension preloading would be to get something that would be easy to change the forward mounting point for the flex plates up and down.

So I get to repair that but overall the car was fantastic this weekend (and some of the last) and really got some heads turning.


I will say the BMI 78T spur rocks. I like it much more than the Robinson racing ones!
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Old 01-17-2010, 06:44 PM   #8270
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he means that all four corners of the pod should at the same ride height. set the pod plate flat, so if you are running some rake (front a tad lower than the rear) the pod is still setup flat.

this answered the "how to measure"

now is the "why" or "what does it do"
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Old 01-17-2010, 07:35 PM   #8271
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will you calll me at 5742529140 tell me how much you wont tell me ok
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Old 01-17-2010, 08:13 PM   #8272
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Originally Posted by DriftDreamer06 View Post
this answered the "how to measure"

now is the "why" or "what does it do"
I've always found that having the front of the pod lower than the rear will give the car more on power steering and make the car rotate harder. The front of the pod higher than the rear does the opposite, it plants the rear more on throttle. I've tried it both ways and I always seem to come back to the pod level. The car just seems to be more consistent and less sensitive to throttle input that way. But in some conditions it can work with pod rake.
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:45 AM   #8273
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Hey guys,

I want to inform all of you that there is going to be a slight change in our product line. After thinking long and hard about it, We decided to no longer carry the Jaco tire line. This is not a knock at the quality or performance of there product in any way. I have always been pleased with that. I am having a very difficult time getting product from them and i have been out of stock for some time now. I am big on parts availability and i like to be able fill everyones needs for my own parts and others that i offer.

Now we will be carrying BSR tires for 1/12th and 1/10th pan cars. These tires are very high quality. They are going to be using the proven CRC wheel for the time being while they have there wheel molds reworked. This combination has already been proven to be lethal at all levels so have no worries about performance. They offer many different compounds for all surfaces. I will be updating the website with all of the new compounds and info for you. Thanks for your understanding.

Thanks,
Jason
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Old 01-18-2010, 07:15 AM   #8274
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How do the BSR and Jaco compounds compare? like is Yellow BSR the same as Yellow Jaco? etc...
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Old 01-18-2010, 07:36 AM   #8275
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How do the BSR and Jaco compounds compare? like is Yellow BSR the same as Yellow Jaco? etc...
The Jaco yellow and BSR white are the same compound. I will be putting a full conversion chart on the website so you guys can cross reference them. BSR does offer alot of different compounds such as a Gray/White which is the same as a Jaco orange or CRC graylow
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:05 AM   #8276
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Default Re BSR tires

I think that anyone who tries the BSR line will be very pleased with the quality and performance. I have run them before(with the BSR wheel) and found them to work great, and I still use them on my 1/10 oval pancar. The only downside is that thay have in the past been more expensive than the Jaco line.
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:16 AM   #8277
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Any idea when these will be in stock? I am really low on Yellow(Jaco) rears, and need some to purchase. No one has any BSR Whites, or Jaco/Parma Yellows in stock...
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:22 AM   #8278
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Any idea when these will be in stock? I am really low on Yellow(Jaco) rears, and need some to purchase. No one has any BSR Whites, or Jaco/Parma Yellows in stock...

Stormer has Blackhawk Yellow rears in stock.
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:24 AM   #8279
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Any idea when these will be in stock? I am really low on Yellow(Jaco) rears, and need some to purchase. No one has any BSR Whites, or Jaco/Parma Yellows in stock...

Joe I have several new pairs of Jaco yellows that I cannot use anymore as the local carpet track closed down last Sept. I'd be happy to sell them to you if you want them, $11 a pair shipped priority.

Chris
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Old 01-18-2010, 11:08 AM   #8280
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Just ordered 2 sets of Yellers from Stormer. That should hold me over until the BSRs are out. I am getting 2 or 3 race days (12 or so 8 min races) on a pair of yellows at this point pending no massive crash happens.

I am all about going to BSR foam when I can due to the quality of those vs the delamination I see on the Jaco/Parmas quite frequently.

Chris, I will see if some of the people I race with are interested in the foams, if so I will send em yer way. Thanks!
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