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Old 12-25-2009, 10:09 AM   #8221
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The specs are 6-40 thread x .875" overall length and are just made from aluminum.
will these AE ones from the B44 be just a tad to short?

part #1411 / FT Blue Titanium Turnbuckles, .75"/19mm

http://67.199.85.166/main/searchboxresults_simple.php
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Old 12-25-2009, 02:32 PM   #8222
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will these AE ones from the B44 be just a tad to short?
part #1411 / FT Blue Titanium Turnbuckles, .75"/19mm
Might be just a couple threads shorter, but depending on what you find for ends, will work just fine.

I am getting back into 1/12th scale after a long time off. I've been looking at the different new cars out and so far the DB12R or RR really looks like what I want. Now if I can just find a used one to add to our toys.
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Old 12-25-2009, 07:16 PM   #8223
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I think the length of those would be fine, but it doesn't say what the diameter of the thread is. I doubt that they will work as most turn buckles are # 5 thread and the ones for the upper arm need to be the bigger # 6 thread.
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Old 12-29-2009, 06:37 PM   #8224
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Originally Posted by -showtime- View Post
I think the length of those would be fine, but it doesn't say what the diameter of the thread is. I doubt that they will work as most turn buckles are # 5 thread and the ones for the upper arm need to be the bigger # 6 thread.
Hope you got your package dude. Give me a buzz next week and let me know how it went. I am going out of town thursday and wont be back until sunday.
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Old 12-29-2009, 06:46 PM   #8225
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Jason. I got a close look at your latest 1/12 scale and it looks awesome. I haven't run 1/12 for about a year, but your car is giving me the bug. Very nice.
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Old 12-29-2009, 07:44 PM   #8226
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Hope you got your package dude. Give me a buzz next week and let me know how it went. I am going out of town thursday and wont be back until sunday.
Yep got it, looks good. Just finishing the car up now. Im going to Beaver this Sunday to run, so I'll give you a call first of the week.

Tried emailing you last week and it kept coming back refused.
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Old 12-30-2009, 10:27 AM   #8227
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Default very high bite asphalt

hi Jason and all,

after a few months experience with my db12rr on carpet, the track closed, so i have been struggling to adjust to an asphalt track. the surface gives as high or higher grip than the carpet

so far black/grey is the most drivable tire choice. i have struggled to get long wear rubber to work. last night i got close with purple/magenta with 0.5 camber, 0.024 front spring, red center spring, thick frp flexbars long with setscrew just touching.

there is still a sharpbreak at the limit but it is a little more predictable.

i would appreciate others experience with very high grip asphalt conditions, thanks a lot for any advice on this.
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Old 01-01-2010, 02:16 PM   #8228
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Default DB12RR

I hate doing this but I am needing to sell my car, it's a 12rr with regular chassis and spares. Please PM if interested. A really cool car in so many ways.

Thanks,
Steve
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Old 01-01-2010, 11:07 PM   #8229
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I was wondering if the side bars need to be changed on the DB12 as often as on a regular T bar car? Does tweek wear them out as fast or are they more durable? Has anyone used the CRC Prostrut front suspension vs. the Associated?
Thanks.
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Old 01-02-2010, 07:57 AM   #8230
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The flex plates do fatigue over time. Usually when the pod starts to not center as well as it used to I replace them. The new carbon flex plates seem to last longer than the old fiberglass ones.

I have not run the crc front end, but some on here have it on the car.
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Old 01-02-2010, 08:32 AM   #8231
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Default CRC FE

I've been using the CRC Pro Strut on the car. I've basically followed Showtime's setup advice and made some minor changes to the FE to tune things. The setup of the Assoc and CRC Front Ends are fairly similar.
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Old 01-02-2010, 04:50 PM   #8232
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I was wondering if the side bars need to be changed on the DB12 as often as on a regular T bar car? Does tweek wear them out as fast or are they more durable? Has anyone used the CRC Prostrut front suspension vs. the Associated?
Thanks.

I've been using the CRC frontend for some time on my original DB12r. I like the adjustability of the crc but the one drawback is you have to use their springs and I'd perfer to use the progressive ones that Jason makes. Overall Jason beleives that the car is faster with the AE frontend, for me I did'nt notice any real advantage/change but I'm no world class driver.
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Old 01-03-2010, 07:34 AM   #8233
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
I've been using the CRC frontend for some time on my original DB12r. I like the adjustability of the crc but the one drawback is you have to use their springs and I'd perfer to use the progressive ones that Jason makes. Overall Jason beleives that the car is faster with the AE frontend, for me I did'nt notice any real advantage/change but I'm no world class driver.

You can modify the crc front end. Install the ae steering knuckles, axle, king pin and upper link. Use crc lower arm, upper arm and turn bucklle. I wish I had a picture for you. I sold my crc car when I bought the bmi a year ago.
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:23 AM   #8234
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You can modify the crc front end. Install the ae steering knuckles, axle, king pin and upper link. Use crc lower arm, upper arm and turn bucklle. I wish I had a picture for you. I sold my crc car when I bought the bmi a year ago.
@ Chris Moore:

If you are talking about the Pro Strut front end.

I have tried the same as in the above post, but with xray parts instead of ae ones on a project of mine.

I used all pro strut parts except for the steering blocks, kingpins, pivot balls, springs and upper link.

You have to use the short CRC upper arms in the long arm configuration. Even then you'll probably want to trim the upper arm and ballcup down to fit a turnbuckle in between.

Note that because xray uses metric sizes I had to use their pivot balls too, which fit pretty well in the crc lower arm. After adjusting it's as good as the crc ones.

Also I had to put shims under the steering link pivot balls, to clear the lower arms.

The xray steering blocks have shorter arms than the CRC pro strut ones. So do the associated ones when trimmed down. (Not sure if a 12th front wheel will ft if this is not trimmed down) This can cause problems clearing the caster blocks, while maintaining good ackerman angles.

I never ran the suspension like this, so I can't comment on the handling. :P
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Old 01-03-2010, 11:22 AM   #8235
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Even with those modifications the BMI springs will not properly fit on the CRC front end. The arm is just too thick to allow you to get any droop out of the front, you get too much pre-load on the spring. I originally had problems with my CRC front end using the long ball conversion as the ball would not thread in straight on one side causing different caster from left to right. So for awhile I went back to the AE front end. Then when I got tired of cracking lower arms I went back to the CRC front end and got the long upper arm which works much better. The front end squares up nicely now and once you glue in the axle and loctite in the king pin there is no need to hybrid the front end with the AE. Also if you want shorter steering arms on the knuckle, CRC is now making them in different sizes.
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