So here's a new one. I just busted the rear motor pod plate... the forward screw on the diff side, I noticed the screw was loose every couple races, so I re-tightened it, and when I did I noticed that the entire CF structure is falling apart there. Sure enough, next race, I had a very slight tap to the wall and it came apart.
The bummer is : the store is out of "DB1020R 2.5mm C/F Lower Pod Plate"
So I am on the bench until I get one of these. Any idea Jason when these plates will be available? Around the same time as the CF flex plates?
Also any thoughts on hardening that area? This isnt a big deal as this plate lasted 2 full season without issue and some very significant hits... just curious if any more material could be added around that spot?
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-Joe
For Racing: BMI DB12RR-LiPo, For Fun: HPI Blitz
RCP 1/12th Scale 2009/2010 spec - Updated Often: http://www.rctech.net/forum/5734711-post1754.html
R/C Racing is: 10% skill, 10% equipment, 20% luck, 50% bullshit and drama.
Here's a question. Has anyone ever bent the right rear pod plate?
I just took my 12RR apart for it's regular cleaning and noticed the right rear pod plate is tweaked. Just ordered a new one. Hopefully I'll get it by the weekend.
Yes I just found mine is bent also. I've had some issues with the motor backing away on hard hits, like when I turn in too soon at the end of the sweeper, other than that it was'nt affecting the performance. O'well gives me an excuse to get those extra lowered pod plates that I never did upgrade to.
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Ripped off by RC Tech member: BlueStreak362 6/08
Once again thanks for displaying your astonishing grasp of the obvious. LOL!
How ya been bro? Ya missed me takin TQ and the A main 2weeks ago. Oh wait, if you were there I'd never would've done that. LOL!
Quote:
Originally Posted by PHI/BMI racer
Yip done that and only noticed after 3 events (2 National and 1 Regional). Can you believe it was still A-mains and same speed as all the other cars. It's Aluminum, so it can bend if hit.
Caio
At least I'm not alone. Wonder if there's a possibility of adding a little more material to that plate? I was thinking the opening where the motor shaft goes thru could be made smaller, possibily adding some strength.
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Float like an anvil. Sting like a Q-Tip!
Wasup just bustin ya Lol.... Great news with the TQ. Im glad your doing well down there. I've been doin great, been running 1/12th lipo at Horsham having a blast.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpraydbySprague
Mike,
Once again thanks for displaying your astonishing grasp of the obvious. LOL!
How ya been bro? Ya missed me takin TQ and the A main 2weeks ago. Oh wait, if you were there I'd never would've done that. LOL!
At least I'm not alone. Wonder if there's a possibility of adding a little more material to that plate? I was thinking the opening where the motor shaft goes thru could be made smaller, possibily adding some strength.
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[-- eXpress motorsports --] [-- Irrgang Racing Service --] [-- BMI Racing --]
Here's a question. Has anyone ever bent the right rear pod plate?
I just took my 12RR apart for it's regular cleaning and noticed the right rear pod plate is tweaked. Just ordered a new one. Hopefully I'll get it by the weekend.
When I bent my I started stripping spur gears one each run, when I replaced my Xenon/HPI gears back to Kimbrough it was fine for the rest of the race. Kimbrough is bulletproof Always keep a spare right pod.
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-=BMI DB12RR=- -=LRP X12 5.5T=-
-=BMI DB10RR=- -=Novak Ballistic 17.5T Spec=-
-=Mugen MTX4R=- -=JLR Red Dot Evo3 Tuned=-
Racing in Latvia
Here's a question. Has anyone ever bent the right rear pod plate?
I just took my 12RR apart for it's regular cleaning and noticed the right rear pod plate is tweaked. Just ordered a new one. Hopefully I'll get it by the weekend.
Done a few of those, they generally bend away from where the motor screws go through.
Sounds like you're having a pretty good event. Hope Sunday goes well. Any chance you can give us a run down of your 17.5 Lipo Setup with the new flexplates? Any changes you've made after switching the parts over from the fiberglass plates? I realize you can't give away the store here in front of everybody, but, some insight for the club level drivers is always appreciated!
Aaron
Yea, wasn't a bad weekend. I was TQ for a while in 17.5 foam TC but ended up 2nd and finished 2nd, so that was good. Wished 1/12 would have been a little better. I'll post my setup in a day or so when I get everything unpacked and get a chance to write down where I ended up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore
Execlent, thanks for that info. It sounds like these will are going to be a nice improvement, and good luck tomorrow.
Thanks! and yea I think they are going to be a nice part.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpraydbySprague
Here's a question. Has anyone ever bent the right rear pod plate?
I just took my 12RR apart for it's regular cleaning and noticed the right rear pod plate is tweaked. Just ordered a new one. Hopefully I'll get it by the weekend.
I've bent a few also, right where the motor screws are. Anytime your having tweek issues with the rear of the car that is a good place to look. It's good to have a spare. I've even took a hammer on a flat surface and straightened them, not ideal but will work in a pinch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore
Congrats on making the A, it looks like you were right in the mix.
Thanks! Still never really got the horsepower where it needed to be. This was the first race I had a 1 cell in the car, so still figuring that out. I just manned up and wheeled it in the 4th round and ended up qualing 9th and finishing finishing 10th (after getting punted) in 17.5 1/12.
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Greg Dobrosky
Showtime Designs
N.E. Grand Slam Series 17.5 Foam TC Champion
A.B. Charles Hobby Shop - eXpress Motorsports - Parma - BMI - The Raceway at Beaver, PA
Here's a question. Has anyone ever bent the right rear pod plate?
I just took my 12RR apart for it's regular cleaning and noticed the right rear pod plate is tweaked. Just ordered a new one. Hopefully I'll get it by the weekend.
One more with too much affection for the boards here!!!
It happens because the weight of the motor hurling forwards or backwards in a big hit is too much for the remaining material in the plate. As someone said earlier, closing down the hole for the motor would add more section across the plane where it bends. However...
They can be straightened. Use a flat, thick metal plate, place the pod side down so the ends are touching the plate, and tap gently in the middle. It takes a bit of patience, but I've straightened a couple that way. It doesn't seem to weaken the side plate, but I wouldn't straighten one more than twice, as it would probably be weaker after that.
Like Chris says, always a good excuse to upgrade if you haven't yet!!
Don't the boards have lexan magnets? They seem to have a magnetic attraction to my car!
One more with too much affection for the boards here!!!
It happens because the weight of the motor hurling forwards or backwards in a big hit is too much for the remaining material in the plate. As someone said earlier, closing down the hole for the motor would add more section across the plane where it bends.
Don't the boards have lexan magnets? They seem to have a magnetic attraction to my car!
Yea, well still working on the board thing.
I mentioned closing down the hole to strengthen the pod plate. Gonna try straightening out this bent one and keep it for a spare.
I thought the front of my car had a wood magnet in it.
Jason! Please hear us poor hacks cry for help!
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Float like an anvil. Sting like a Q-Tip!
I was thinking... what about using something like a 2mm thick strip of Ti behind the screw head... as sort of a rectangular washer that would spread the force of the screw over a large area? The top is the only place its really needed as the bottom has the CF there if you use a screw with a normal washer to help bolster it.
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-Joe
For Racing: BMI DB12RR-LiPo, For Fun: HPI Blitz
RCP 1/12th Scale 2009/2010 spec - Updated Often: http://www.rctech.net/forum/5734711-post1754.html
R/C Racing is: 10% skill, 10% equipment, 20% luck, 50% bullshit and drama.
I was thinking... what about using something like a 2mm thick strip of Ti behind the screw head... as sort of a rectangular washer that would spread the force of the screw over a large area? The top is the only place its really needed as the bottom has the CF there if you use a screw with a normal washer to help bolster it.
have you tried 'fatboy' screws? (i think they are from lunsford)
, other than that it was'nt affecting the performance. O'well gives me an excuse to get those extra lowered pod plates that I never did upgrade to. 
) in 17.5 1/12.
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