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Old 10-20-2009, 11:03 PM   #7996
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Hey PHI/BMI Racer,

For Mod I would use a receiver pack

Hope this helps
Mike
Thanks, will do that . But will I need a lower turn motor to keep up with the 4-cells NiMh?
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Old 10-21-2009, 08:01 AM   #7997
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WHen you guys CA the sides of your wheels, what CA do you use? The thin stuff (the stuff thats thinner than water) or the stuff one step up from that.)

Also how do you get an even application on the rim/foam?
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Old 10-21-2009, 08:23 AM   #7998
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Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
WHen you guys CA the sides of your wheels, what CA do you use? The thin stuff (the stuff thats thinner than water) or the stuff one step up from that.)

Also how do you get an even application on the rim/foam?
Use the thick stuff. CS makes a very good product for that, it has really saved me many many sets of tires. Bison super glue also works quite well (the one, that has "pro" written on the lower part of bottle). both of these glues are thick enough that it wont soak right in, you will have enough time to evenly spread it with the tip of the bottle.
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Old 10-21-2009, 09:40 AM   #7999
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ahh good to know, I have been using the thin stuff in the past and yeh the foam just sucked it up and made a very hard side wall. I'll have to run to the store to see what I can find. Only stuff I think the local place carries is the Pacer Zap stuff. But I'll see.

ANyone know a US location that carries the CS stuff?

Thanks!
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Old 10-21-2009, 10:19 AM   #8000
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I placed an order through CS, which was fun since I dont speak or read german. With some google assistance I think I ordered the right thing and I shipping was 2x as expensive as the product itself. But I did some digging adn cant find any of that stuff in the US.
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Old 10-21-2009, 10:37 AM   #8001
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you can always go through the bmi site directly, no problems there!
LOL, yep, the BMI web store got a nice order from me. I didn't want to go that route since they are at the complete opposite corner of the country relative to me and shipping takes longer. Stormer is just a few hundred miles away, but unfortunately out of stock on all but a handful of SKUs.

One more question: Are the 12R and 12RR parts completely interchangeable?
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Old 10-21-2009, 10:37 AM   #8002
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FWIW. Losi and Jet have the best CA in the states. Should be able to find it in any good hobby shop.

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Old 10-21-2009, 10:52 AM   #8003
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Originally Posted by PHI/BMI racer View Post
Thanks, will do that . But will I need a lower turn motor to keep up with the 4-cells NiMh?
Depending on your driving and theirs you might not...but you probably will.
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Old 10-21-2009, 10:54 AM   #8004
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I've used the thick and thin CA...doesn't seem to matter which so long as you work fast. Use an Xacto knife to spread it around like butter on toast.

The Losi stuff is great. I like how the cap keeps the tip from clogging up. Other then that I prefer Zap over Jet but take whatever I can get locally.
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Old 10-21-2009, 12:24 PM   #8005
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One more question: Are the 12R and 12RR parts completely interchangeable?
No. IIRC, only the rear pod side plates are interchangeable with the R.

The RR chassis has the front suspension in a different position, the lower and upper pod plates are wider than the R, and the cross-brace is longer to meet the new forward flex plate holes, and the rear pod brace is wider. HTH
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Old 10-21-2009, 12:30 PM   #8006
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The front suspension is the same so that is interchangeable as well. The RR lengthened and widened the rear pod, shortened the chassis to make up for the longer rear pod, lengthened the flexplates, lengthened the rear brace for the longer flexplates, added multiple shock mounting positions to the chassis, and moved the upper shock mount position directly over the center pivot. Oh and changed the diff side hub to match the wider rear pod as well.
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Old 10-21-2009, 02:45 PM   #8007
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Yes, Instead of a 4.5 try a 3.5 turn that's what I would do

Hope this helps
Mike



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Originally Posted by PHI/BMI racer View Post
Thanks, will do that . But will I need a lower turn motor to keep up with the 4-cells NiMh?
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Old 10-21-2009, 06:03 PM   #8008
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You did that on a 10R chassis? could you post a pic? ( I know wrong forum... but this is one of the only things keeping me from buying a 10R. I hate the idea of the weighted battery tray.
Joe,
Here is my 10RR with 1S Lipo.
Attached Thumbnails
BMI's DB12R-dsc00557.jpg   BMI's DB12R-dsc00563.jpg   BMI's DB12R-dsc00565.jpg  
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Old 10-21-2009, 08:23 PM   #8009
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Joe,
Here is my 10RR with 1S Lipo.
just curious, is there much of a worldgt class at roadrunners? if so, is there a practice schedule or is it just show up early on raceday?
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Old 10-25-2009, 03:06 PM   #8010
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Hey folks,

So after some terrible handling issues I have sorted out with the above help, today the car was ballisticly fast, just a tenth off the pace of the fast guy at the track, and I was over geared, and not as good of a driver.

So besides for getting the car on point and making it quite a rocket, I again have had a rash of busted flex plate pivot ball cups. Today I had 2 break.

The track we run has about a 60 - 70ft straight leading into a 90 deg sweeper to another 20 - 30 ft of track, if you catch a bump or any issue in the entrance to the sweeper you end up going right to the wall. Twice I contacted the wall today and twice it busted the pivot ball cup on the side of the car that contacted the wall.

I am thinking of trying some thin aluminum tubing and hammering a section over the outside of the Delrin lower pivot ball holder to see if that will hold it together better.

The hits my car took against the wall were less severe than what some CRC and even an old Hot Bodies Tbar cars took today yet they rolled away. This caused me to retire from the main today and the 3rd qualifier.

The balls floated free in the holder, no binding, the pivot ball on the opposite side did not busted out if its housing, no other ailments to the car other than that. Just really confused what makes these seemingly standard side strikes so destructive to the car, its almost like I need some large Nerf bars installed.
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