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Old 09-16-2009, 02:06 AM   #7891
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Thought i would post a picture of my freshly complete chassis.
Running Tekin RS Pro with a Novak 5.5L. SMC 4900mAh 40C pack with Hobbycity booster.

All i need to do is get it on the track and sort out the massive off-power push (more like snow plougher).
It had great on-power steering. So it was fun coming up to a corner at full speed, turn, brake hard, back steps out and gas it.

I heard back from Lefthander today and they will have the Hyperdrive R5 mounts up on their website this weekend. Part number HD2527
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Old 09-16-2009, 03:14 AM   #7892
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Sounds to me like you have an overall push problem that is being compensated by a loose rear end. Typically a pan car doesn't like to be driven like a TC...slamming on the brakes and getting the back end loose then cramming on the throttle is likely to lead to a spin out.
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Old 09-16-2009, 03:30 AM   #7893
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GWH74- Nice looking car, one recommendation for you, might want to move the switch for your pack, it WILL get taken out in a crash, either get turned off, or get ripped off the chassis and drag, no fun either way...
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Old 09-16-2009, 05:31 AM   #7894
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Ffejdat - already in the process of a new switch. All i had at work when i was testing the booster circuit.
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Old 09-16-2009, 06:35 PM   #7895
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Thanks for the input. I should get the kit next week in the mail. so looking forward in builder her and getting ready for the indoor season.
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Old 09-18-2009, 04:13 PM   #7896
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So I got the updated R5 front end on the BMI today, along with a new ESC and a complete re-wiring of the car.

The R5 front end works great, but the thing to keep in mind is that the lower blocks come real close to the front bumper and body mounts so some trimming may be required there. Otherwise its solid and STRONG. an example is I had one of the mount screws fall out durring a run... I DIDNT NOTICE IT! Thats how solid this front end is... with one screw out and the other lose on one side I didnt notice the front end acting weird at all because that stout center brace kept stuff in line. (word to the wise, use thread lock on those 8-32 bolts in those lower blocks).

I had to use a 3mm spacer under the blocks to get to ride height, but that is the most you would probably need. I would suggest having 2x sets of 8-23 screws, some that are longer for when you use taller spacers and some that are smaller for when you are running the rims to the plastic.

ANd the tekin RS rocks... I had a GTB 4 cell. No more. The booster is run the proper way and you can see the Tekin ESC switch set back from the main switch. if I have a radio glitch or need the rx reset, the marshal can just recycle the booster switch to take care of that.

With the front end (which I replaced the 8 3x10mm screws w/ Ti from Lunsford), and replacing the heavy GTB w/ the Tekin RS, the car now weighs in wet and with full tires and body at 725gm.

I consider this to be about the final form for this car as there is almost no changes I have in mind for the car.


Some eye candy: (note the clipped white wire from the booster... not needed in this setup, so I just nipped it off.)
Attached Thumbnails
BMI's DB12R-p9180032.jpg   BMI's DB12R-p9180037.jpg   BMI's DB12R-p9180038.jpg   BMI's DB12R-p9180039.jpg  
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Old 09-18-2009, 05:23 PM   #7897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
So I got the updated R5 front end on the BMI today, along with a new ESC and a complete re-wiring of the car.

The R5 front end works great, but the thing to keep in mind is that the lower blocks come real close to the front bumper and body mounts so some trimming may be required there. Otherwise its solid and STRONG. an example is I had one of the mount screws fall out durring a run... I DIDNT NOTICE IT! Thats how solid this front end is... with one screw out and the other lose on one side I didnt notice the front end acting weird at all because that stout center brace kept stuff in line. (word to the wise, use thread lock on those 8-32 bolts in those lower blocks).

I had to use a 3mm spacer under the blocks to get to ride height, but that is the most you would probably need. I would suggest having 2x sets of 8-23 screws, some that are longer for when you use taller spacers and some that are smaller for when you are running the rims to the plastic.

ANd the tekin RS rocks... I had a GTB 4 cell. No more. The booster is run the proper way and you can see the Tekin ESC switch set back from the main switch. if I have a radio glitch or need the rx reset, the marshal can just recycle the booster switch to take care of that.

With the front end (which I replaced the 8 3x10mm screws w/ Ti from Lunsford), and replacing the heavy GTB w/ the Tekin RS, the car now weighs in wet and with full tires and body at 725gm.

I consider this to be about the final form for this car as there is almost no changes I have in mind for the car.


Some eye candy: (note the clipped white wire from the booster... not needed in this setup, so I just nipped it off.)
Clegg- what shock mount is in the car? any special milling required?
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Old 09-18-2009, 10:31 PM   #7898
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Quote:
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Clegg- what shock mount is in the car? any special milling required?
Its a Darkside shock mount from an oval car. No milling required fits perfectly! Think I bought it through Lefthander or RC4Less
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Old 09-19-2009, 02:36 AM   #7899
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Clegg: Great write up on the R5 frontend.

For those looking for the bulkheads Lefthander has them in stock. You can even get them in red.
Part #: HD2527 (HD2527R for the red ones).

I think i will be ordering these soon. With the R5 frontend it is easy to adjust track width and top arm length. Plus parts are easier to get hold of in case of a mishap.

One thing you do need to watch is that the upper turnbuckles are screwed in straight or the caster will be way out.
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Old 09-19-2009, 06:41 AM   #7900
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I'm wondering what position I need to mount the shock in my RR. I'm almost done converting it over. Just need to build the Silva shock. Can't wait to try the new Lipo battery.

Bill.
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Old 09-19-2009, 11:16 AM   #7901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Aggresiva View Post
I'm wondering what position I need to mount the shock in my RR. I'm almost done converting it over. Just need to build the Silva shock. Can't wait to try the new Lipo battery.

Bill.
Try the long position/all the way forward. I got a tip from mike ivy and its dialed. You will need to use different ball cups since the small ball cups wont span the length. I just use standard associated one and they work perfect. Also would recommend putting old o rings under the ball cups to eliminate slop.
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Old 09-19-2009, 02:25 PM   #7902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
So I got the updated R5 front end on the BMI today, along with a new ESC and a complete re-wiring of the car.

The R5 front end works great, but the thing to keep in mind is that the lower blocks come real close to the front bumper and body mounts so some trimming may be required there. Otherwise its solid and STRONG. an example is I had one of the mount screws fall out durring a run... I DIDNT NOTICE IT! Thats how solid this front end is... with one screw out and the other lose on one side I didnt notice the front end acting weird at all because that stout center brace kept stuff in line. (word to the wise, use thread lock on those 8-32 bolts in those lower blocks).

I had to use a 3mm spacer under the blocks to get to ride height, but that is the most you would probably need. I would suggest having 2x sets of 8-23 screws, some that are longer for when you use taller spacers and some that are smaller for when you are running the rims to the plastic.

ANd the tekin RS rocks... I had a GTB 4 cell. No more. The booster is run the proper way and you can see the Tekin ESC switch set back from the main switch. if I have a radio glitch or need the rx reset, the marshal can just recycle the booster switch to take care of that.

With the front end (which I replaced the 8 3x10mm screws w/ Ti from Lunsford), and replacing the heavy GTB w/ the Tekin RS, the car now weighs in wet and with full tires and body at 725gm.

I consider this to be about the final form for this car as there is almost no changes I have in mind for the car.


Some eye candy: (note the clipped white wire from the booster... not needed in this setup, so I just nipped it off.)

Looks nice Joe , which lipo batt is that?
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Old 09-19-2009, 09:21 PM   #7903
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Quote:
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Looks nice Joe , which lipo batt is that?
Thanks!, its a SMC 4900 40C, I have a SMC 4900 50C on its way though. For some reason this 40C had the sticker on the wrong side of the battery.

So after spending a bit today going over the car, I am a bit heavy on the ESC side, so I moved the PT and the booster further to the Rx side of the chassis. Still need a few gm to even it all out, but oh well... the price of making the car light
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Last edited by Clegg; 09-19-2009 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 09-19-2009, 11:27 PM   #7904
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Thanks!, its a SMC 4900 40C, I have a SMC 4900 50C on its way though. For some reason this 40C had the sticker on the wrong side of the battery.
Cool I ws thinking it was a deans type that you have coverted to a pin style Let us know how you like that r5 frontend on the track.
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Old 09-20-2009, 04:39 AM   #7905
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Here is the latest picture of my car.
New switch installed. This is a double pole switch. One pole switches the ESC and one switches the booster.

Battery is a SMC 4900mAh 40C. I swapped the sticker from the bottom to the top. Not sure way SMC make them this way. Same with the 2-cell packs. Maybe it's so others can't see what pack you are running

In this form with full size tires, no transponder and light weight body (40g) it weighs 726g. This is also with the Tekin RS PRO and heavy wire which adds 10g over the RS and lighter wire.
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