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Old 07-23-2009, 09:21 PM   #7666
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Originally Posted by mike ivy View Post
Hey Chris try this:


Your going to have to set your car up just a little softer. I spoke to Jason and he told me to try this:

40w oil start with the gold spring. Move your shock mount to the forward setting.Try out the longer setting on the flexplates and see how that is. #3 IRS sure lube in the tubes and king pins. Im going to do some more practicing in the next few weeks i'll be able to post more detailed stuff This setup above is with out a lipo plate.

Hope this helps so far the car handles very well with this setup above. I cant wait to do some more 1/12th Lipo racing this winter If you have anymore question's feel free to ask.
Thanks Mike

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Originally Posted by Tired Racer View Post
It's damn close to the SMC but thought I'd check with you all anyways.

Listed...
1st: SMC 4000mAh/25C 1s lipo dims(LxWxH)
2nd: Fantom 5000mAh/40C 1s lipo dims(LxWxH)

3.63" x 1.83" x 0.78" (92.2mm x 46.5mm x 20.0mm)
3.65" x 1.85" x 0.73" (92.5mm x 46.5mm x 18.5mm)

I'm guessing the height is less for the Fantom as it may not have the 4-cell bumps. Is that an issue?

Link to the Fantom lipo: http://fantomracing.com/store/index.html?cat_id=128
I have'nt measured the Thunder Power I picked up yesterday but it is thinner than the SMC 4000mah pack. That is a good thing because I can slide the new pack into the chassis without taking the shock off. I dont have the new lipo chassis yet but it fits reat in both my r and rr cars.
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Old 07-24-2009, 10:01 AM   #7667
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Thanks Mike



I have'nt measured the Thunder Power I picked up yesterday but it is thinner than the SMC 4000mah pack. That is a good thing because I can slide the new pack into the chassis without taking the shock off. I dont have the new lipo chassis yet but it fits reat in both my r and rr cars.
The Thunder Power/Fantom packs fit just fine, but they have no humps to lock them in so you HAVE to tape unless you want them rattling around in there. I don't know how high your shock is, but There is NO way I can wiggle the pack in or out of the car without removing the shock. The side wing plates above the flex plates come up too high to let the pack clear the shock. I'm using the Medium black ball stud for the front of the shock in the middle position. (My car is the LiPo specific car)
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Old 07-24-2009, 10:11 AM   #7668
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The Thunder Power/Fantom packs fit just fine, but they have no humps to lock them in so you HAVE to tape unless you want them rattling around in there. I don't know how high your shock is, but There is NO way I can wiggle the pack in or out of the car without removing the shock. The side wing plates above the flex plates come up too high to let the pack clear the shock. I'm using the Medium black ball stud for the front of the shock in the middle position. (My car is the LiPo specific car)

I'm using the tall ball stud and have allways used tape so as not to have issues with battries hitting the shock and bending things in crashes
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Old 07-24-2009, 10:20 AM   #7669
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What´s the different between using the tall or the medium ball stud in the front of the shock mount?
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Old 07-24-2009, 10:43 AM   #7670
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What´s the different between using the tall or the medium ball stud in the front of the shock mount?
The taller ball stud reduces the steering a little but helps with bumpy tracks, I also found that when using the SMC pack I had to go to the tall stud so the shock would'nt be resting on the battery. With the thinner profile of the TP pack I could change to the med stud if I wanted to. Keep in mind that I'm runing the original r car, so how the shock and battery fit might be different with the new chassis and silva shock.
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:51 AM   #7671
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Thanks chris....
Looking forward to go on the track and test a little.
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Old 07-24-2009, 01:51 PM   #7672
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Mike...thats the setup Im running. Pretty close anyway. Not sure where the surelube fits in cs rating so I cant compair them.

Might be going to the track tonight to try some stuff. Im thinking if I can get a harder rear tire to hold on then it will free the car up with out upsetting the balance. I have pink and grey rears to play with along with black threw magenta frts. Hopfully I can get the lap times back but still keep the consistantcy.

Will let you guys know what I find out.

DK
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Old 07-24-2009, 02:13 PM   #7673
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Mike...thats the setup Im running. Pretty close anyway. Not sure where the surelube fits in cs rating so I cant compair them.

Might be going to the track tonight to try some stuff. Im thinking if I can get a harder rear tire to hold on then it will free the car up with out upsetting the balance. I have pink and grey rears to play with along with black threw magenta frts. Hopfully I can get the lap times back but still keep the consistantcy.

Will let you guys know what I find out.

DK

I really like the pinks with liac front here, we run a a high bite black ozit carpet here. I have even tried dpl pinks but it was very free on those, not undrivable but loose.
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:09 PM   #7674
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what should i true tires for world gt and 12th scale? I had a racing buddy tell me in the world gt car to roll out at about 60. thanks
josh
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:18 PM   #7675
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what should i true tires for world gt and 12th scale? I had a racing buddy tell me in the world gt car to roll out at about 60. thanks
josh
For world gt on carpet i run them at 2.100 front and rear. For 1/12th on carpet i cut em to 1.750 rear and 1.650 front.
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:54 PM   #7676
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I got to play with all kinds of tires today. Started with magenta frt/pink rr and got all the way to black/grey. Car got faster as the day went on. Wed tq was 45/8:05ish with fast lap of 10.0, I was 43/8:01 with a fast lap of 10.7......

Tonight my main (best run of the night) was 45/8:11 with a fast lap of 10.3. Kinda funny seeing how I didnt run the same tire combo all night. The car was a touch tight all night but that seems to make me consistant.

The red shock spring is way to much but the gold is a touch to soft. Is there a way to get somthing in the middle? Maybe drop the front of the shock with the gold.....or raise the front with the red? Maybe a red spring with a longer shock? Whats the best direction for this?

DK
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Old 07-25-2009, 04:53 PM   #7677
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Hey Guy's did a all day test session with a 1c lipo, Over all I was very impressed how the car handled. With out a lipo plate my car handled just like my Nimh car. I had plenty of grip and steering. It felt very nimble through the tight suff.

My car feel great cant wait to run some lipo this winter!!! I have a setup in a PDF form If anyone interested its my first setup for Lipo that Jason gave me I think This setup will pretty much work every where. Enjoy it !!!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Mike Ivy DB12RR Standard lipo Setup .pdf (227.6 KB, 199 views)
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Old 07-25-2009, 07:30 PM   #7678
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1.6mm front tire diameter...I think that's even smaller than the front wheel bearing

All kidding aside...you list the rear spring as blue/gold...I assume that means you tried both throughout the day...which did you end up with? Is that flat servo or angled? Did you need to drill new servo mount holes for that servo? I needed to with mine on the older chassis.
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Old 07-25-2009, 08:19 PM   #7679
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Hello There InspGadgt,

1.6 Lol... sorry man. I normally run 1.65" Fr and 1.75" R Those where old tires I use for practice. I started out with the Blue spring because the traction was low/med bite as the bite came up I settled on the gold spring.

As for the servo, I always run the angled servo that's just what I like,I have a steady hand, its more of a personal preference thing. Yes for the jr servo I had to drill servo mount holes.

It does not matter to me I had to drill out new hole's Im kind of a Old school 1/12th scale'r back in the day we had to drill out servo mount holes in my associated cars Lol.... hope this helps, if ya have anymore questions feel free to ask.

Mike





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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
1.6mm front tire diameter...I think that's even smaller than the front wheel bearing

All kidding aside...you list the rear spring as blue/gold...I assume that means you tried both throughout the day...which did you end up with? Is that flat servo or angled? Did you need to drill new servo mount holes for that servo? I needed to with mine on the older chassis.
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Old 07-25-2009, 08:52 PM   #7680
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It does not matter to me I had to drill out new hole's Im kind of a Old school 1/12th scale'r back in the day we had to drill out servo mount holes in my associated cars Lol.... hope this helps, if ya have anymore questions feel free to ask.

Mike
I'm with ya there...I still have my old DA Graphite balsa core RC12L chassis that I had to drill my own servo mount holes on I was just curious if you came up with anything different from what I did.
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