BMI's DB12R
#7636
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
For you guys having issues with the frontend screws has anyone tried these?
http://www.fastener-express.com/inde...D&ProdID=41113
http://www.fastener-express.com/inde...D&ProdID=41113
I got the steel 8-32 screws in. They do stick out the bottom some. Maybe a deeper counter sink? Was thinking about taking some to work and clean the head up some so they fit flush. I would think that the alum screw is the same way?
Clegg..I will keep an eye on the tire/fuzz build up. Racing tomorrow
DK
#7638
Nice !!
I got the steel 8-32 screws in. They do stick out the bottom some. Maybe a deeper counter sink? Was thinking about taking some to work and clean the head up some so they fit flush. I would think that the alum screw is the same way?
Clegg..I will keep an eye on the tire/fuzz build up. Racing tomorrow
DK
I got the steel 8-32 screws in. They do stick out the bottom some. Maybe a deeper counter sink? Was thinking about taking some to work and clean the head up some so they fit flush. I would think that the alum screw is the same way?
Clegg..I will keep an eye on the tire/fuzz build up. Racing tomorrow
DK
Tim
#7640
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Yes, BMI 1 and 2 tonight. Would love to say I was first across the line but sad to say I took second. I was faster but couldnt find a way by. He drove a really clean race. Nice and tight when I crawled up under his body. Nose to tail for the last 5 mins. Everybody was hooting and howling. Pretty good time.
Yep, started with lilac front and they started to push sooner than the purple. Black fronts took care of that. Car was really, REALLY good! The only problem I had was it would get a little too lose at the 7 min mark. Mine is the old car so Im sure the shorter L-plates and shorter shock had somthing to do with it. Gona soften up the shock spring (red to gold) for next time but not sure what to do with the L-plates. Maybe thin with the screw?
Anyway. Awsome car, great night of racing and lots of laughs. Thanks for the all the help guys !!
DK
Yep, started with lilac front and they started to push sooner than the purple. Black fronts took care of that. Car was really, REALLY good! The only problem I had was it would get a little too lose at the 7 min mark. Mine is the old car so Im sure the shorter L-plates and shorter shock had somthing to do with it. Gona soften up the shock spring (red to gold) for next time but not sure what to do with the L-plates. Maybe thin with the screw?
Anyway. Awsome car, great night of racing and lots of laughs. Thanks for the all the help guys !!
DK
#7641
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Can anyone offer a good starting setup for a 12RR Lipo 13.5 that will be running a medium bite carpet track? I figured that the setup in the instruction manual was optimized for the car running nimh cells and I'm not sure how well it will transfer to the car running lipo. Should I start with the setup from the manual?
#7642
Tech Adept
Parttime, is possible you problem is not in the car, but in the additive, can you probe more time soak the rear tyre, or other brand of additive, i like Jack the Gripper (TC2) because, at start are not than strenght how FXII, but the grip is more lineal around 8 min.
Greetings, Luis C.
Greetings, Luis C.
#7643
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Can anyone offer a good starting setup for a 12RR Lipo 13.5 that will be running a medium bite carpet track? I figured that the setup in the instruction manual was optimized for the car running nimh cells and I'm not sure how well it will transfer to the car running lipo. Should I start with the setup from the manual?
10 deg block
mid on upper arm (4 degs caster)
1.5 camber
.5 toe out
black cut to 1.7
Servo flat and forward. Linkage should be straight when looking from any angle and behind servo saver.
Gold spring with 55wt
1 mm pod droop
thick L-plate long with no set screw
10,000 in tubes
yellow cut to 1.8
3.5 mm ride hight
Pretty sure most of that is the kit setup. If your running single cell then start your roll out at 3.15. That should put you in the ball park.
Parttime, is possible you problem is not in the car, but in the additive, can you probe more time soak the rear tyre, or other brand of additive, i like Jack the Gripper (TC2) because, at start are not than strenght how FXII, but the grip is more lineal around 8 min.
Greetings, Luis C.
Greetings, Luis C.
DK
#7644
Well after more than a month of testing and learning another car it was back to the trusty BMI this last weekend. Man its so hard to describe how easy this car is to drive. Due to some driver errors and a faulty kingpin I finished in second. And I got to put some real laps on the new RR car for the first time, even smoother than the original.
#7645
Tall Ball Stud
Hey Jason I took the broken Ball stud, leveled the broken nub, drilled and tap (4-40). Then screwed in a flex plate set screw. Looks good and survived Sunday at Mike's. Thanks for the set up this afternoon.
Viva Las Vegas
Viva Las Vegas
#7646
Tech Champion
Pretty ingenious there.
I've used 2 other options that worked well. The Corally ball studs are steel and just a little taller but they won't break. Another option is to use the older style shock mount which is taller, then you can use the medium ball stud which has less tendancy to break.
I've used 2 other options that worked well. The Corally ball studs are steel and just a little taller but they won't break. Another option is to use the older style shock mount which is taller, then you can use the medium ball stud which has less tendancy to break.
#7647
Jason, are you planning/thinking of doing a special edition run of the new lipo rr car? Hint hint
#7649