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Old 07-14-2009, 06:38 PM   #7636
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For you guys having issues with the frontend screws has anyone tried these?
http://www.fastener-express.com/inde...D&ProdID=41113
Nice !!

I got the steel 8-32 screws in. They do stick out the bottom some. Maybe a deeper counter sink? Was thinking about taking some to work and clean the head up some so they fit flush. I would think that the alum screw is the same way?

Clegg..I will keep an eye on the tire/fuzz build up. Racing tomorrow

DK
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Old 07-14-2009, 06:52 PM   #7637
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ok
Thanks dude, also are you gonna have tires as well or are you out like everyone else?

Mainly looking for double pink fronts and yellow rears
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Old 07-14-2009, 10:34 PM   #7638
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Nice !!

I got the steel 8-32 screws in. They do stick out the bottom some. Maybe a deeper counter sink? Was thinking about taking some to work and clean the head up some so they fit flush. I would think that the alum screw is the same way?

Clegg..I will keep an eye on the tire/fuzz build up. Racing tomorrow

DK
Got a bunch of the proper screws in my box. I'll bring em with me tomorrow to the track.

Tim
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Old 07-15-2009, 07:55 AM   #7639
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Thanks dude, also are you gonna have tires as well or are you out like everyone else?

Mainly looking for double pink fronts and yellow rears
I have a few pairs of lilac fronts, a bunch of yellow rears,purple fronts and magenta fronts.
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Old 07-15-2009, 08:44 PM   #7640
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Yes, BMI 1 and 2 tonight. Would love to say I was first across the line but sad to say I took second. I was faster but couldnt find a way by. He drove a really clean race. Nice and tight when I crawled up under his body. Nose to tail for the last 5 mins. Everybody was hooting and howling. Pretty good time.

Yep, started with lilac front and they started to push sooner than the purple. Black fronts took care of that. Car was really, REALLY good! The only problem I had was it would get a little too lose at the 7 min mark. Mine is the old car so Im sure the shorter L-plates and shorter shock had somthing to do with it. Gona soften up the shock spring (red to gold) for next time but not sure what to do with the L-plates. Maybe thin with the screw?

Anyway. Awsome car, great night of racing and lots of laughs. Thanks for the all the help guys !!

DK
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Old 07-17-2009, 06:06 AM   #7641
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Can anyone offer a good starting setup for a 12RR Lipo 13.5 that will be running a medium bite carpet track? I figured that the setup in the instruction manual was optimized for the car running nimh cells and I'm not sure how well it will transfer to the car running lipo. Should I start with the setup from the manual?
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Old 07-17-2009, 07:55 AM   #7642
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Parttime, is possible you problem is not in the car, but in the additive, can you probe more time soak the rear tyre, or other brand of additive, i like Jack the Gripper (TC2) because, at start are not than strenght how FXII, but the grip is more lineal around 8 min.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 07-17-2009, 08:58 AM   #7643
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Can anyone offer a good starting setup for a 12RR Lipo 13.5 that will be running a medium bite carpet track? I figured that the setup in the instruction manual was optimized for the car running nimh cells and I'm not sure how well it will transfer to the car running lipo. Should I start with the setup from the manual?
.020 bmi spring
10 deg block
mid on upper arm (4 degs caster)
1.5 camber
.5 toe out
black cut to 1.7
Servo flat and forward. Linkage should be straight when looking from any angle and behind servo saver.

Gold spring with 55wt
1 mm pod droop
thick L-plate long with no set screw
10,000 in tubes
yellow cut to 1.8

3.5 mm ride hight

Pretty sure most of that is the kit setup. If your running single cell then start your roll out at 3.15. That should put you in the ball park.

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Parttime, is possible you problem is not in the car, but in the additive, can you probe more time soak the rear tyre, or other brand of additive, i like Jack the Gripper (TC2) because, at start are not than strenght how FXII, but the grip is more lineal around 8 min.

Greetings, Luis C.
I have tried Paragon and Jack. Paragon is a little smoother but holds on just as long as Jack. Havnt tried anything else.

DK
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Old 07-20-2009, 04:27 PM   #7644
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Well after more than a month of testing and learning another car it was back to the trusty BMI this last weekend. Man its so hard to describe how easy this car is to drive. Due to some driver errors and a faulty kingpin I finished in second. And I got to put some real laps on the new RR car for the first time, even smoother than the original.
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:13 PM   #7645
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Default Tall Ball Stud

Hey Jason I took the broken Ball stud, leveled the broken nub, drilled and tap (4-40). Then screwed in a flex plate set screw. Looks good and survived Sunday at Mike's. Thanks for the set up this afternoon.

Viva Las Vegas
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Old 07-20-2009, 10:50 PM   #7646
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Pretty ingenious there.

I've used 2 other options that worked well. The Corally ball studs are steel and just a little taller but they won't break. Another option is to use the older style shock mount which is taller, then you can use the medium ball stud which has less tendancy to break.
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Old 07-21-2009, 03:03 PM   #7647
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Jason, are you planning/thinking of doing a special edition run of the new lipo rr car? Hint hint
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Old 07-21-2009, 04:32 PM   #7648
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Jason, are you planning/thinking of doing a special edition run of the new lipo rr car? Hint hint
Havent really thought about it. Let me think about it.
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:57 AM   #7649
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Old 07-22-2009, 11:51 AM   #7650
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Clear or black ano on the alum. Ship it with the new pistons for the silva shock and alum front ride height spacers along with the rear 3mm axle spacers. I bet Jason could make a killer AE R5 style front shock mount also.

Hint, Hint.

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