The smaller CRC screws you are talking about? the big one on the end is the BMI alloy screw, the two smaller ones are the Al and the Ti CRC screws. now if I can find some Ti flat head screws that use hex drivers that have the proper 82 deg head angle and head length, I'd be in business I had using big phillips screw drivers on a car that everything else is Hex.
That is correct. The red crc one and the ti screw are both 100 degrees.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
www.bmiracing.com
DB12RR lipo edition cars now available
I start to mount the DB12RR, when i mounted the front i see, with the shims how say the manual, i note more spring preload, and i donīt like it, i mount only 1 shim up, and have sligty preload.
For the low arms, i have a screw, for make strip in it, before mount with normal screws, and is fine.
In rear, the pod is not than free i like, when mount the L plates, i working in this part now.
In other hand, the carbon pieces and IRS parts, have a very good feeling.
My big problem, is with Imperial units, i have a caliper with both units, and have to use constantly.
Greetings, Luis C.
When you have the car at ride height and with full electronics, the springs will compress slightly. You want there to be about .25-.5mm of droop in the front to start.
With the rear pod, you want to make sure the set screws are not tight on the pivot balls. The set screws are for adjusting out play only.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
www.bmiracing.com
DB12RR lipo edition cars now available
Now that I think about it...wasn't 8-32 always 100 degrees, the ones used in pan cars? I remember our LHS used to bring in the Niftech countersink specifically for 8-32 and a different one for 4-40. I believe the AE screws are also 100 degree. I assume then that the IRS screws are 82 degree...which other ones are 82 degrees?
WOW. A little bit of a price diffrents? I am gona pick up some Losi steel 8-32 flat head screws to try. They say 82 deg head soo I will see how they fit.
Just tore the car apart. For some reason if i set the pod flat and tighten the front screw it holds a small tweak but If I flex it opposite of the tweak and tighten the screw it sits flat. Im just gona go with that for now. I did find my two front screws in the front end are bent. Im hoping that is what is causing the issues.
__________________
X-Factory X-60 Fantom motor and lipo
Hotbodies D4 WCE Fantom motor and lipo
Hotbodies TC Fantom motor and lipo
BMI DB12RR lipo 1/12th Fantom motor and single cell lipo
Now I have never tried RC Screwz but have tried SS screws before and you couldnt pay me to run them. There only good for two times in and out before there junk. They just strip out really easyly.
I run the Rc Screwz on all of my cars. On and off road. I have not had an issue yet.
__________________
X-Factory X-60 Fantom motor and lipo
Hotbodies D4 WCE Fantom motor and lipo
Hotbodies TC Fantom motor and lipo
BMI DB12RR lipo 1/12th Fantom motor and single cell lipo
Do you have to make a change in your chasis? Thanks.
Regards,
I would be surprised if anyone has, the car is designed to run the single cell lipo, no t-bar so no need for a split pack. Where are those avalible, I have'nt even seen those before?
__________________
Ripped off by RC Tech member: BlueStreak362 6/08
Well ? My front screws were bent. New ones cleaned it right up. No more tweak. Got to hit the track for a couple of quick packs. Nice and straight.
Black/grey tires rotated just as hard as the megenta/pink but was smoother and more consistent. But the rear let go about 5mins in. Pretty much NO forward traction. Gonna throw the pink back on in the back and see what it does. I also moved the servo forward and have on power steering to spare. Very consistent for the first 5 to 6 mins of a run.
Well ? My front screws were bent. New ones cleaned it right up. No more tweak. Got to hit the track for a couple of quick packs. Nice and straight.
Black/grey tires rotated just as hard as the megenta/pink but was smoother and more consistent. But the rear let go about 5mins in. Pretty much NO forward traction. Gonna throw the pink back on in the back and see what it does. I also moved the servo forward and have on power steering to spare. Very consistent for the first 5 to 6 mins of a run.
DK
When you say front screws... you mean the front L plate screws?
Yellow rears man... I'm telling ya it's what you desire
__________________
-Joe
For Racing: BMI DB12RR-LiPo, For Fun: HPI Blitz
RCP 1/12th Scale 2009/2010 spec - Updated Often: http://www.rctech.net/forum/5734711-post1754.html
R/C Racing is: 10% skill, 10% equipment, 20% luck, 50% bullshit and drama.
I agree. I run lilac/yellow combo with jack the gripper and no spinouts. The spinouts at the 6 minute mark are the front tires gumming up. Happens alot with jack
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
www.bmiracing.com
DB12RR lipo edition cars now available
When you say front screws... you mean the front L plate screws?
Yellow rears man... I'm telling ya it's what you desire
The 8-32 screws in the front end were bent.
My car is not spinning out, the rear tires are spinning when I get on the gas. Like when going threw a switch back I can hear the inside rear tire pick up and spin. The side bite is the same the whole run and really nice, just lacking forward traction.
I have a set of pink rear to try so those are gona be next. Will go from there. Just hate to goto yellow cause of how easy they chunk.
I had using big phillips screw drivers on a car that everything else is Hex.
Very consistent for the first 5 to 6 mins of a run. 
Similar Threads