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Old 04-23-2009, 08:28 AM   #7306
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Hi Guys,

got my 12RR and i had my first problem.
What size do have the rear wheel screws?
Thought there would be a general parts list in the manual but there isnt.
How do you guys order the parts without part numbers?

Sorry for the stupid questions, but the other cars that i had, had some parts-list within the manual for ordering spare parts with the part number.
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:40 AM   #7307
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Hi Guys,

got my 12RR and i had my first problem.
What size do have the rear wheel screws?
Thought there would be a general parts list in the manual but there isnt.
How do you guys order the parts without part numbers?

Sorry for the stupid questions, but the other cars that i had, had some parts-list within the manual for ordering spare parts with the part number.
They are 4-40 cap heads the length you need really depends on what brand of wheel you run but 1/2" is good place to start.

Jason
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Old 04-23-2009, 08:45 AM   #7308
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They are 4-40 cap heads the length you need really depends on what brand of wheel you run but 1/2" is good place to start.

Jason
I use the jaco prism.
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:31 AM   #7309
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The screws that are supplied with the car for the wheels are 4-40x1/4. They are listed by size in the instruction manual. They are on the website by size and part #
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:15 PM   #7310
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Thanks guys.
Found the size i need on step 21 of the instruction manual.
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Old 04-23-2009, 06:59 PM   #7311
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Ok, thanks for the info. I kinda just threw the electronics on it when i got it, but I'm going back through and doing it right. Ill let you know how it works when I;m done. Thanks
cool let me know how it goes
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Old 04-24-2009, 03:20 AM   #7312
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It really doesn't matter if you have the servo on the left side or right side...just so long as it balances out. Most setups will balance out with the servo and receiver on one side and the ESC on the other.
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Old 04-24-2009, 07:34 AM   #7313
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It really doesn't matter if you have the servo on the left side or right side...just so long as it balances out. Most setups will balance out with the servo and receiver on one side and the ESC on the other.
Most importantly the servo saver is centered. Otherwise steering geometry is different left to right.
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Old 04-24-2009, 10:28 AM   #7314
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That too!
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Old 04-24-2009, 02:46 PM   #7315
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Here's a new toy I picke up to mess around with on my DB12RR My only gripe with it so far is it didn't come with instructions...easy enough to find on line though. I'll get more pics once it is assembled and on the car.

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Old 04-24-2009, 10:42 PM   #7316
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Hey guys how does changing the rear track width affect the car I noticed in the manual it says 172mm?
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Old 04-25-2009, 01:50 AM   #7317
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Well as promised here are pics of the front end mounted to the car:





This front end by far has the least amount of bind in it when assembled of the 3 front ends I have tried so far (Stock AE, CRC, and Serpent). For less then the cost of the CRC with the long upper arm conversion (at least when I bought it) this kit comes ready to be assembled in 2 lengths of upper arm. The upper arms have 0 bind in them. The only bind I found was the typical tight lower pivot ball. All in all it is a really beautiful kit...but I do have a few gripes.

The first is that it comes with no instructions at all. It really isn't a difficult suspension to build but instructions with tips would have been nice. I downloaded the full car's instruction manual for the front end just to make sure I was doing things right. Make sure you have an 8-32 tap...one of my threaded inserts had some buggered threads. I didn't have a tap but fortunately I had the steel 8-32 screw that comes with the IRS arms and I used that to repair the threads. Earlier I said the upper arms had 0 bind...well there is good reason for that, the upper arms actually have a bit of slop in the mount. This can be remedied easily with some very thin shims. Also, the kit comes with a 6 degree upper arm mount, 3 and 9 degree mounts are also available but not included with the kit. I would have preferred the kit come with the 9 degree mount as that would have put it much closer to the 10 degree most of us use in 1/12th. To buy a 9 degree mount is going to cost another $36...almost half the cost of the complete kit. The king pins are flat spotted to allow the use of a wrench to screw them in. I'm not sure I like this much...but according to the S120 thread some people have been having issues with these bending and replacing them with the CRC king pin and pivot ball. Eventually I will get around to doing that as well but for now I will use the stock setup. The placement of the pivot ball in the arm is a bit higher then in the IRS or CRC arm, so there is less adjustment for ride height. This can be particularly irritating on outdoor asphalt tracks where ride height tends to be a bit higher. Due to this I was unable to use my BMI spacers in the front for ride height adjustment. The kit does come with some really nice machined ride height shims in 2mm, 1mm, and .5mm...but they are made for the size screw the S120 uses to mount the front end on and are slotted too small for a 8-32 screw. All these are fairly minor issues...but with the amount of thought that looks like went into this front end I would have expected these issues to have been worked through.

All in all though I like the front end in construction. We'll see this weekend how it does on the track
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Old 04-25-2009, 06:05 AM   #7318
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Hey guys how does changing the rear track width affect the car I noticed in the manual it says 172mm?
Wider makes the car more stable and frees it up a little. More narrow increases rear traction and also makes the car rotate a little more. I normally keep it between 170 and 172
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Old 04-25-2009, 06:06 AM   #7319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Well as promised here are pics of the front end mounted to the car:





This front end by far has the least amount of bind in it when assembled of the 3 front ends I have tried so far (Stock AE, CRC, and Serpent). For less then the cost of the CRC with the long upper arm conversion (at least when I bought it) this kit comes ready to be assembled in 2 lengths of upper arm. The upper arms have 0 bind in them. The only bind I found was the typical tight lower pivot ball. All in all it is a really beautiful kit...but I do have a few gripes.

The first is that it comes with no instructions at all. It really isn't a difficult suspension to build but instructions with tips would have been nice. I downloaded the full car's instruction manual for the front end just to make sure I was doing things right. Make sure you have an 8-32 tap...one of my threaded inserts had some buggered threads. I didn't have a tap but fortunately I had the steel 8-32 screw that comes with the IRS arms and I used that to repair the threads. Earlier I said the upper arms had 0 bind...well there is good reason for that, the upper arms actually have a bit of slop in the mount. This can be remedied easily with some very thin shims. Also, the kit comes with a 6 degree upper arm mount, 3 and 9 degree mounts are also available but not included with the kit. I would have preferred the kit come with the 9 degree mount as that would have put it much closer to the 10 degree most of us use in 1/12th. To buy a 9 degree mount is going to cost another $36...almost half the cost of the complete kit. The king pins are flat spotted to allow the use of a wrench to screw them in. I'm not sure I like this much...but according to the S120 thread some people have been having issues with these bending and replacing them with the CRC king pin and pivot ball. Eventually I will get around to doing that as well but for now I will use the stock setup. The placement of the pivot ball in the arm is a bit higher then in the IRS or CRC arm, so there is less adjustment for ride height. This can be particularly irritating on outdoor asphalt tracks where ride height tends to be a bit higher. Due to this I was unable to use my BMI spacers in the front for ride height adjustment. The kit does come with some really nice machined ride height shims in 2mm, 1mm, and .5mm...but they are made for the size screw the S120 uses to mount the front end on and are slotted too small for a 8-32 screw. All these are fairly minor issues...but with the amount of thought that looks like went into this front end I would have expected these issues to have been worked through.

All in all though I like the front end in construction. We'll see this weekend how it does on the track
Very nice burt. Looks good. Let us know how it goes
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Old 04-25-2009, 10:17 AM   #7320
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Wider makes the car more stable and frees it up a little. More narrow increases rear traction and also makes the car rotate a little more. I normally keep it between 170 and 172
Thanks Jason
So on a tight carpet track with lots of turns wider (172mm) would be better?
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