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Old 03-06-2009, 08:51 PM   #7156
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Also you can just swap it out with the long Corally ball stud which is steel
my hobby shop didnt know of any steel stud that was tall enough.
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Old 03-07-2009, 01:28 AM   #7157
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It seems to me the long alloy ball stud was replaced with a medium ball stud in the latest kit. At least in my DB12RR kit what I just bought 2 weeks ago there was a medium size in the kit.
In my first race last weekend I had two heavy crashes at fullspeed on the long mainstraight and there was absolutely nothing broken or twisted on the car beside one of the GRP wheels.
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Old 03-07-2009, 05:53 AM   #7158
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Default Corally long ball stud

InspGadgt do you know the part number of the Corally long ball stud?

Thanks
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Old 03-07-2009, 06:35 AM   #7159
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so a friend and I both run DB12RR's and have had the same failure of the front shock mount ball stud. When using the long alloy stud, we have found they tweak or snap in collisions. Now I know we shouldnt hit stuff... but it happens.

Both of us recently have fallen out of mains and qualifiers from failure of that front ball. Now we know this is a legacy associated bit from the 12L3 series of cars, so its not a BMI design failure. But I went and found a solid solution.

After seeing the new 12R5 center shock mount position and then looking at the 1/10th offerings out there, I picked up a Darkside Motorsports Adjustible center shock mount (#140). I rocks. In the same position as the AE mount it takes a lil more distance on the shock to give the same geometry, but overall its perfect. I used a small Ti ball stud in it and its rock solid. It has a pre threaded delrin base that fits fine.

Its probably a few gm's heavier than the AE setup, but I have no fear of busting those long ball studs anymore. And it complements the cars looks rather nicely.

I did also... somehow... bust the Silvia shock cap. I snapped the threaded portion right off. so I put an aluminum 4x40 scew through the hole with a small Oring on it, and a thin nut on the other side, and its good as new and longer which works for the darkside setup.
hey clegg thats a sweet shock mount im gonna have to pick one of them up. the long irs ball stud always snaps and the corally is like 9 bucks and its metric so you need a different ball cup. thats why we run a medium height ball stud with 2mm spacers under the stock mount. same height as long ball stud without the snappage hey jason looks like you need to make an adjustable mount now buddy
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Old 03-07-2009, 06:37 AM   #7160
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I have the older DB12. The problem I am having is upon acceleration it pulls to the left. I can't get it corrected. I am using the damper disk, and .20 springs. Bearings seems fine. Are there any obvious things to look for I am missing?
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Old 03-07-2009, 08:09 AM   #7161
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Off the start line my car pulls to the left, I have also noticed that the steering blocks are getting a little loose on the kingpin so there's a bit of play, could this be the problem?

The car is fine once it's rolling, any idea's??
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Hey,
check front tire diameter is the same both sided, also for rear. If the camber is different left to right the car will pull a bit to one side. Also check ride height left to right and make sure its the same. Also under low traction conditions if the diff is too tight the back end will lose traction and swing out.
Good luck
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Also make sure your axle is centered properly. It needs to be centered almost perfect. If you face the shorter boss on the clamping hub towards the bearing in the pod plate, you will need 3mm of shims per side and you will be at 172 mm and perfectly centered. This is with the offset of jaco and the new parma black wheel.
All covered at the top of this page One additional thing is to check that the front springs are the same height
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Old 03-07-2009, 08:28 AM   #7162
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All covered at the top of this page One additional thing is to check that the front springs are the same height
Also please note that both jiggly bits are deflecting at a 45 degree angle which means that those are real. But yet animated.
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Old 03-07-2009, 10:50 AM   #7163
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hey clegg thats a sweet shock mount im gonna have to pick one of them up. the long irs ball stud always snaps and the corally is like 9 bucks and its metric so you need a different ball cup. thats why we run a medium height ball stud with 2mm spacers under the stock mount. same height as long ball stud without the snappage hey jason looks like you need to make an adjustable mount now buddy
The threads are metric but the ball fits well in the standard rod end.

I also saw guys use the older style AE/CRC mount, which is higer, with a shorter ball stud then use spacers underneath the shock mount to raise it.
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Old 03-07-2009, 12:03 PM   #7164
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Originally Posted by xtrememadness View Post
hey clegg thats a sweet shock mount im gonna have to pick one of them up. the long irs ball stud always snaps and the corally is like 9 bucks and its metric so you need a different ball cup. thats why we run a medium height ball stud with 2mm spacers under the stock mount. same height as long ball stud without the snappage hey jason looks like you need to make an adjustable mount now buddy
I snagged it from RC4Less when I ordered some ceramic bearings. I think this is a great purchase. I can change the shock angle now pretty easily. And because its arc'd you dont need to reset your shock length as you move it up and down in the mount.


and it just looks bad ass
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Old 03-07-2009, 02:08 PM   #7165
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definitely a cool mount...I was looking at the aluminum one from CRC because it has a clamp for the roll over antenna but would have to space the heck out of it as it is super low.
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Old 03-08-2009, 12:06 AM   #7166
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Also please note that both jiggly bits are deflecting at a 45 degree angle which means that those are real. But yet animated.
Someone has been watching Manswers on Spike TV!

Anyhoo. Had another good night with the DB12RR. Unfortunately I had a bad solder connection do me in during the main. Here's a question for everyone. How often do you reapply lube to the kingpins and damper tubes? I do them once a week.

Jason,

Wanted you to know the pink tires in the rear are holding up great. No where close to the amount of tire wear I had with the yellow tires.
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Old 03-08-2009, 01:41 AM   #7167
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Hi guis I just assembly my DB12RR and in the step5 I have stack because the upper suspension hinge pin it's very dificult to pass throu to the oter side of the reactive caster block.
Any ideas or tips?
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Old 03-08-2009, 06:38 AM   #7168
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The hinge pin is supposed to be tight in the caster block. You only want it to be free in the arm. If it fits loosely through both the arm and caster block it will make the assembly sloppy. Remember that only the arm pivots on the pin.
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:02 AM   #7169
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The hinge pin is supposed to be tight in the caster block. You only want it to be free in the arm. If it fits loosely through both the arm and caster block it will make the assembly sloppy. Remember that only the arm pivots on the pin.
Thanks Jason
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Old 03-08-2009, 01:20 PM   #7170
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Jason YGPM.
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