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Old 02-09-2009, 09:50 PM   #7006
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Im ready for ordering a DB12RR from the one european shop. For ordering some spares is it better going for the newer front arms as with the kit or going with some milled down AE arms? What is a less tight fit with the metal suspension balls?
Also are the plastic housing for the rear pivot ball and flexplates a really needed spare means they could break?
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Old 02-09-2009, 11:09 PM   #7007
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Im ready for ordering a DB12RR from the one european shop. For ordering some spares is it better going for the newer front arms as with the kit or going with some milled down AE arms? What is a less tight fit with the metal suspension balls?
Also are the plastic housing for the rear pivot ball and flexplates a really needed spare means they could break?
IRS arms are great, but working them with a 8-32 tapper is essential if you don't want to break them before even getting to the track. I ordered some tappers from http://modelfixings.com/ , great service.

I have not broken any of those housing within 2 seasons of driving in mod, but I 'm still keeping them in my pit, because you never know what may happen and if you don't have anybody in the club who is supporting parts for BMI, then better invest a few bucks in spares. Most common spares you would like to keep are: DB1041R, DB1094, DB3010R.

Welcome to the BMI family
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:36 AM   #7008
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Man... Thanks for the email Jason and that explains why I was having trouble at the birds after I broke the IRS arms and used a different vendors lower front arms...

And YES TAP the front holes of the IRS arms.. I posted this problem a couple of pages ago and using a drill will work but after the screw been taken out/put back in it gets worn out...
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Old 02-10-2009, 03:18 PM   #7009
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IRS arms are great, but working them with a 8-32 tapper is essential if you don't want to break them before even getting to the track. I ordered some tappers from http://modelfixings.com/ , great service.

I have not broken any of those housing within 2 seasons of driving in mod, but I 'm still keeping them in my pit, because you never know what may happen and if you don't have anybody in the club who is supporting parts for BMI, then better invest a few bucks in spares. Most common spares you would like to keep are: DB1041R, DB1094, DB3010R.

Welcome to the BMI family
Thanks for the information.
I have looked for that tap but there are different types of taps and I dont know what is the correct one. Do you have the part # for this or the correct description?
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Old 02-10-2009, 03:48 PM   #7010
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Any 8-32 machine thread tap should work.
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Old 02-10-2009, 10:50 PM   #7011
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Here is the 10.5 setup I have been working on for awhile. Its pretty good, double pink fronts might finish it off, but lilacs last 8mins.
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Old 02-11-2009, 08:59 PM   #7012
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Does anyone know if this a real body for 1/12 cars or is done purely by VRC Racing software?
E
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Old 02-11-2009, 09:01 PM   #7013
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Does anyone know if this a real body for 1/12 cars or is done purely by VRC Racing software?
E
Wow thats a cool looking body
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Old 02-11-2009, 09:06 PM   #7014
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Wow thats a cool looking body
do you know if it's real or just digital??
E
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Old 02-11-2009, 09:11 PM   #7015
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Does anyone know if this a real body for 1/12 cars or is done purely by VRC Racing software?
E
Looks kinda like a protoform corvette body for wgt to me

http://www.rcplanet.com/Corvette_C6_...prm1499-00.htm
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Old 02-12-2009, 07:52 AM   #7016
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The body in that pic is a Ferrari 599GTB. Yummmmmy
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Old 02-12-2009, 10:40 AM   #7017
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Very cool
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Old 02-12-2009, 12:37 PM   #7018
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Does anyone know if this a real body for 1/12 cars or is done purely by VRC Racing software?
E
that would be so tight
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Old 02-12-2009, 02:34 PM   #7019
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do you know if it's real or just digital??
E
I'm thinking its a digital image, but I don't know for sure. If you find out let us know, I'd love to have one of those.
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Old 02-12-2009, 02:57 PM   #7020
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Looking back I'd have to guess that is a photo chopped image as well...look carefully at the rear wheel. It has 4 bolts that don't align with the wheel.
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