R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-08-2009, 07:24 AM   #6976
Tech Champion
 
Nova F1 Racer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Peoples Republic of Northern Virginia
Posts: 5,682
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
Dont worry about it buddy. I took care of it already.
Thank you Jason, I get back to work last Tuesday and its 14-14-12-10 hour work days... I'm just starting to get caught up.....
__________________
This is DICK!!! And you're NOT!
RC Tech member #11
Aussie Rules Footy, Brisbane LIONS!!
[url]http://www.pitter-pat.com/[/url] for pet care needs in Northern Virginia
Nova F1 Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 08:16 AM   #6977
Tech Elite
 
Zerodefect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Underground, Ohio
Posts: 4,296
Default

Does the DB12rr come with a pod thats balenced for brushless or brushed? If its balenced for brushless you just shim the brushed motor right?

I'm going to run brushed stock until I use up my old collection of motors then switch to 17.5 brushless.

Nice looking car.
Zerodefect is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 08:41 AM   #6978
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,820
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

The pod is designed to be balanced for brushless. You can run brushed motors also and IRS has a motor plate shim for using brushed motors.

Brushless and brushed motors fit into the pod with ease and with no disassembly. If your not carful, either motor will fall out of the pod.

Thanks for the kind words about our car. We really are proud of it.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 09:13 AM   #6979
Tech Champion
 
Nova F1 Racer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Peoples Republic of Northern Virginia
Posts: 5,682
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
The pod is designed to be balanced for brushless. You can run brushed motors also and IRS has a motor plate shim for using brushed motors.

Brushless and brushed motors fit into the pod with ease and with no disassembly. If your not carful, either motor will fall out of the pod.

Thanks for the kind words about our car. We really are proud of it.
You got mail.....
__________________
This is DICK!!! And you're NOT!
RC Tech member #11
Aussie Rules Footy, Brisbane LIONS!!
[url]http://www.pitter-pat.com/[/url] for pet care needs in Northern Virginia
Nova F1 Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 09:14 AM   #6980
Tech Elite
 
Zerodefect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Underground, Ohio
Posts: 4,296
Default

Thanks thats all I needed. I just found the info for the rr. Looks like you fixed everything on the r car. I was looking at simple t-bar cars to jump into 12th scale with, but selecting t-bars doesn't seem simple at all. I like the ability the 12rr has to adjust roll and bump independantly and still roll like a t-bar car. Nice servo mount slots to, I stink at drilling servo mount holes.

The batteries look like a tight fit. I might just make the packs with a wire in the middle like a saddle pack to get them in and out. Someone recommended I get 2-3 packs so I can get enough track time.
Zerodefect is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 09:19 AM   #6981
Tech Champion
 
Nova F1 Racer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Peoples Republic of Northern Virginia
Posts: 5,682
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
Thanks thats all I needed. I just found the info for the rr. Looks like you fixed everything on the r car. I was looking at simple t-bar cars to jump into 12th scale with, but selecting t-bars doesn't seem simple at all. I like the ability the 12rr has to adjust roll and bump independantly and still roll like a t-bar car. Nice servo mount slots to, I stink at drilling servo mount holes.

The batteries look like a tight fit. I might just make the packs with a wire in the middle like a saddle pack to get them in and out. Someone recommended I get 2-3 packs so I can get enough track time.
You would be the first person I know of that would put a wire in the middle..... Ther are about 15-20 BMI racers in the DC area and we all use the straight 4 cell assemby....
__________________
This is DICK!!! And you're NOT!
RC Tech member #11
Aussie Rules Footy, Brisbane LIONS!!
[url]http://www.pitter-pat.com/[/url] for pet care needs in Northern Virginia
Nova F1 Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 10:25 AM   #6982
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,820
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
Thanks thats all I needed. I just found the info for the rr. Looks like you fixed everything on the r car. I was looking at simple t-bar cars to jump into 12th scale with, but selecting t-bars doesn't seem simple at all. I like the ability the 12rr has to adjust roll and bump independantly and still roll like a t-bar car. Nice servo mount slots to, I stink at drilling servo mount holes.

The batteries look like a tight fit. I might just make the packs with a wire in the middle like a saddle pack to get them in and out. Someone recommended I get 2-3 packs so I can get enough track time.
Its not as tight as it looks. This is the most adjustable 1/12th car on the market. With other cars you will need to change out springs and T plates to adjust spring tension. Eache flex plate has 6 different spring rate options with no changed parts. You will find it to also be the most durable and tweak free also. If you need any help just let me know.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 10:33 AM   #6983
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,148
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
You do not need that much steering throw. You will be fine setting it up the way you have it. Take a pic and post it for me when you can so i can see and make sure i am understanding exactly what you are saying.
the outside arm clears but the inside arm catches the head of the upper pin. if i raise the servo to the top of the mount then i just need to raise the ball on the steering arm to reduce bump steer? or do you run it like this? here is what i was describing.


BMI's DB12R-a1a.jpg

BMI's DB12R-a2a.jpg

Last edited by avs; 02-08-2009 at 10:38 AM. Reason: missing text
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 11:10 AM   #6984
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,820
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

That is more than enogh steering throw. If you want more you can use the rear holes in the servo mount where it mounts to the chassis and run the ballstuds on the back of the servo saver. This will make the turnbuckles dead straight when looking down from the top of the car.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 02:08 PM   #6985
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,148
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
That is more than enogh steering throw. If you want more you can use the rear holes in the servo mount where it mounts to the chassis and run the ballstuds on the back of the servo saver. This will make the turnbuckles dead straight when looking down from the top of the car.
ok thanks i will run it as is.

moving on i have a couple more (hopefully last) assembly questions.

1)
the instructions indicate that setting the 'overall shock length' to 66mm should provide 1.5mm droop. if i install the front shock support 1 hole fwd from the most aft position (see pic below) then i need to make the shock length 69mm (center to center of ball cups) to get 0.0 droop.

if i move the fwd shock support to most aft location then i get shock length to droop setttings more like the instrctions but then it looks like there is a battery clearance problem.

so is 69mm the right length?(use a longer ball cup) or should i raise (shim) the ball stud on the front mount?

2)
also regarding battery packs, it looks like the battery packs are one piece, (ie not saddle packs with a center jumper wire.

if so, then is it std practice to remove the shock to get batteries in and out?

BMI's DB12R-a4a.jpg

thanks again for your patience and attention.

Last edited by avs; 02-08-2009 at 02:11 PM. Reason: typo
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 02:17 PM   #6986
Tech Fanatic
 
xtrememadness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: new jersey
Posts: 954
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to xtrememadness
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
ok thanks i will run it as is.

moving on i have a couple more (hopefully last) assembly questions.

1)
the instructions indicate that setting the 'overall shock length' to 66mm should provide 1.5mm droop. if i install the front shock support 1 hole fwd from the most aft position (see pic below) then i need to make the shock length 69mm (center to center of ball cups) to get 0.0 droop.

if i move the fwd shock support to most aft location then i get shock length to droop setttings more like the instrctions but then it looks like there is a battery clearance problem.

so is 69mm the right length?(use a longer ball cup) or should i raise (shim) the ball stud on the front mount?

2)
also regarding battery packs, it looks like the battery packs are one piece, (ie not saddle packs with a center jumper wire.

if so, then is it std practice to remove the shock to get batteries in and out?

Attachment 415765

thanks again for your patience and attention.
the 66mm setting is for the original shock. you are running the new silva bladder shock which is longer. so basically wherever hole you chose according to your setup you will just need to adjust the ball cups on the shock to get 1.5mm of droop. running the shock in the hole farthest back will give you the most steering.
__________________
CRAIG SANTRY / TAMIYA / TEAM ASSOCIATED / BROWNIES PRO AND SPORT HOBBIES / STATEN ISLAND SPEED TEAM / FUTABA / LRP / TEKIN / PROTOFORM / JACKSON RC / HORSHAM RC / EXOTEK RACING / REEDY
xtrememadness is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 02:19 PM   #6987
Tech Fanatic
 
xtrememadness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: new jersey
Posts: 954
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to xtrememadness
Default

and yes we always pop off the shock to remove the battery. just need to remove it on the top plate side
__________________
CRAIG SANTRY / TAMIYA / TEAM ASSOCIATED / BROWNIES PRO AND SPORT HOBBIES / STATEN ISLAND SPEED TEAM / FUTABA / LRP / TEKIN / PROTOFORM / JACKSON RC / HORSHAM RC / EXOTEK RACING / REEDY
xtrememadness is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 02:22 PM   #6988
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,148
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xtrememadness View Post
the 66mm setting is for the original shock. you are running the new silva bladder shock which is longer. so basically wherever hole you chose according to your setup you will just need to adjust the ball cups on the shock to get 1.5mm of droop. running the shock in the hole farthest back will give you the most steering.
ok thanks, i will do that.

so you don't fiddle the front mount height to tune the shock just the fore aft position?
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 02:30 PM   #6989
Tech Master
 
PartTime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sterling hts MI
Posts: 1,029
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
Eache flex plate has 6 different spring rate options with no changed parts.
Care to expand on that? I can think of 4, but 6?

DK
PartTime is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2009, 02:53 PM   #6990
Tech Fanatic
 
xtrememadness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: new jersey
Posts: 954
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to xtrememadness
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by avs View Post
ok thanks, i will do that.

so you don't fiddle the front mount height to tune the shock just the fore aft position?
ok. sorry. yeah for high bite carpet we run a medium height ballstud(black) and 2mm shims under antenna mount. this is the same as running the tall ball stud except the tall ball stud bends like a prezel the shims under the mount is a jason schreffler trick. the higher the shock the more entry steering i believe
__________________
CRAIG SANTRY / TAMIYA / TEAM ASSOCIATED / BROWNIES PRO AND SPORT HOBBIES / STATEN ISLAND SPEED TEAM / FUTABA / LRP / TEKIN / PROTOFORM / JACKSON RC / HORSHAM RC / EXOTEK RACING / REEDY
xtrememadness is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
NEW IN BOX BMI DB12R bigb11 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 47 10-09-2008 05:36 PM
-BMI DB12R- joey R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 11 05-18-2008 10:25 PM
BMI DB12R wallstreet R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 17 02-15-2008 06:04 PM
BMI DB12R D-Bizzle R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 12-21-2007 04:48 PM
WTB BMI DB12R chris moore R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 8 06-29-2007 07:25 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:00 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0