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Old 01-15-2009, 10:24 AM   #6781
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Hey guys, what do you all use to hold the batts in? Tape or oring? Ive always taped mine in, but wondering if there is any drawback to oring? seems alot easier with oring, just dont want the batts to move, or the chassis to tweak. Thanks
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Old 01-15-2009, 10:41 AM   #6782
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Hey guys, what do you all use to hold the batts in? Tape or oring? Ive always taped mine in, but wondering if there is any drawback to oring? seems alot easier with oring, just dont want the batts to move, or the chassis to tweak. Thanks

One major issue with the oring. If you hit something hard you will very likely have the batts make contact with the shock. Alot of guys have had issues with bending the shock shaft from this happening, I allways use tape and would recomend that method.
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Old 01-15-2009, 10:41 AM   #6783
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The main issue using the ring is that in a hard impact the batt will jump up and damage the shock shaft. But I am still too lazy to use the tape I think it should be better with the Silva shock as its shaft is thicker.

P.S.: damn, Chris was an eye blink faster than me, don't blink when he's around!
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Old 01-15-2009, 10:58 AM   #6784
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I've had the o-ring let the battery slip and throw off the balance of the car. You can tighten it up but looping the o-ring under the brace rather than over. I haven't tried that yet so can't testify to it's effectiveness. On the other hand being the race director tape takes too long for my busy schedule so I got lazy and use a velcro strap. It works pretty good for tracks where your ride height is high but on lower ride heights I wouldn't recommend it.
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Old 01-15-2009, 12:15 PM   #6785
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I want buy a new 1/12 scale car and the DB12RR is one choice for me (the CRC the other). Iīm just trying to figure out what is the best choice for me. I have read in the thread but there are still some questions.
I have read about a new Silva shock, whatīs special with that?
In a crash what parts might break (regarding spare parts)?
I have seen the new RR chassis has slots for the servoholder so any servo will work. Sounds like a very good idea, I just think if the servo maybe will move in a crash or not?

The design of the DB12RR looks very interesting and after a look into the manual actually I would like going with the BMI over the other car. Itīs just bad you canīt buy BMI in our country. I fear it will be much more expensive then.
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Old 01-15-2009, 12:24 PM   #6786
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I want buy a new 1/12 scale car and the DB12RR is one choice for me (the CRC the other). Iīm just trying to figure out what is the best choice for me. I have read in the thread but there are still some questions.
I have read about a new Silva shock, whatīs special with that?
In a crash what parts might break (regarding spare parts)?
I have seen the new RR chassis has slots for the servoholder so any servo will work. Sounds like a very good idea, I just think if the servo maybe will move in a crash or not?

The design of the DB12RR looks very interesting and after a look into the manual actually I would like going with the BMI over the other car. Itīs just bad you canīt buy BMI in our country. I fear it will be much more expensive then.

HeyBuddy,

Im glad you are considering our car.

The slotted servo mounting holes hold up very well as the servo saver takes the majority of the impact. I havent had my servo move yet.

Common spares would be Flex plates, Center pivot, Flex plate pivot ball housings, and maybe a spare set of pivot balls. No much breaks on the car.

If interested, you can have your hobby shop contact us and set up an account so you can have more support for your area.
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Old 01-15-2009, 02:48 PM   #6787
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I will say that this BMI chassis is among the most delamination resistent of any 1/12th chassis I have owned. Real high quality CF used here.

Yeh like Jason said - the Flex plates and the center pivot ball, those are the main things to break... just like any other link car or a T Bar car.
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Old 01-15-2009, 02:49 PM   #6788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
I am about to do some lipo testing with the 3.7 lipo. I am going to try this setup


Front

5 degree blocks with 4 degree castor
.020 front spring w/ #3 on the kingpins
angled servo
2x pink fronts cut to 1.700 1/2 inside sauce
2 degrees camber
0 toe
3.5mm ride height
.25mm droop

Rear
lipo back as far as possible
Thin flex plates in long position w/ set screw installed but not touching chassis
#3 in the tubes
Gold spring w/ 50 wt. oil in the silva shock
Tall ballstud on shock mount
2 x pink rear tire cut to 1.800
1mm pod droop
3.5mm ride height
pod level

I will see how this runs and let you know.
Anything noteworthy come from this testing? Changes?
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Old 01-15-2009, 03:10 PM   #6789
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Jason, ygpm.
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Old 01-15-2009, 04:24 PM   #6790
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Anything noteworthy come from this testing? Changes?
I didnt get to test it yet. Hopefully within the next 2 weeks.
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Old 01-15-2009, 05:49 PM   #6791
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Good thing I had ordered 3 sets of the IRS lower arms... 3 of them cracked on the front screw hole when I put in on the chassis. A thin white line appeared when I did the first one. So before I put the arm on I tried the screw and another one bites the dust.. I tried using a 9/64 drill to open it up and same results... But a 5/32 did the trick....

Yes, I am using the same screws that came with the IRS package...

Any ideas why this is happening? Any other front ends out there that will fit like the IRS one?
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Old 01-15-2009, 06:09 PM   #6792
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Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer View Post
Good thing I had ordered 3 sets of the IRS lower arms... 3 of them cracked on the front screw hole when I put in on the chassis. A thin white line appeared when I did the first one. So before I put the arm on I tried the screw and another one bites the dust.. I tried using a 9/64 drill to open it up and same results... But a 5/32 did the trick....

Yes, I am using the same screws that came with the IRS package...

Any ideas why this is happening? Any other front ends out there that will fit like the IRS one?
Pick up an 8-32 tap to thread the holes before inserting the screws. You can purchase one at your local hardware store. I pre tapped my holes, and I am running the original pair of arms that came with my 12RR. Don't re drill the holes just use the 8-32 tap.
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Old 01-15-2009, 07:07 PM   #6793
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Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer View Post
Good thing I had ordered 3 sets of the IRS lower arms... 3 of them cracked on the front screw hole when I put in on the chassis. A thin white line appeared when I did the first one. So before I put the arm on I tried the screw and another one bites the dust.. I tried using a 9/64 drill to open it up and same results... But a 5/32 did the trick....

Yes, I am using the same screws that came with the IRS package...

Any ideas why this is happening? Any other front ends out there that will fit like the IRS one?
I just am running the older style IRS lowered arms, they are modified AE arms. BMI sells them as the 1/10th lowered arms. They are far more beefy than the new symetrical IRS arms and you can still lower down to the rim if you wanted.
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Old 01-15-2009, 07:13 PM   #6794
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Clegg, thanks for that information. I missed the old style IRS lowered arms. I prefer them to newer ones.
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Old 01-15-2009, 07:36 PM   #6795
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Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
I didnt get to test it yet. Hopefully within the next 2 weeks.
State race this weekend at Adrenaline. They added just a sunday program for part timers
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