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Old 12-21-2008, 01:43 PM   #6496
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The 10R is going to have a pod update but not a new car. The 10R does share most of the same parts as the 12RR.
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Old 12-21-2008, 04:54 PM   #6497
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I was told that you won't be allowed to run a lipo in the 17.5 class. Is there any truth to that?
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Old 12-21-2008, 04:56 PM   #6498
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I ran the BMI for the first time in a full series of heats and mains today. And the car was phenominal to drive... but at a cost.

The 'new' IRS lower A Arms that come with the kit have a big issue that I discovered. Because there is such a small area that the screw threads into on one solid hit I both cracked the very thin wall on the front screw and stripped that screw out, and caused the rear one to warp and distort into sort of an S pattern.

Attached are pics - the hit that caused this was not really hard and was against a not real well weighed down peice of CRC track system pipe that gave when the car hit.

I had some other .060 lowered IRS fronts from a previous 1/12th that have far more material to screw into, and I think the thing is solid now. But I had to replace both lower IRS front arms from some hits that I wouldnt consider lethal to a 1/12th at all. I believe these bulkier and stronger front blocks that I am using are the same that are sold under the DB2110 number on the BMIracing site. The parts I broke and pictured I believe are DB2010. Is there any issue running the DB2110 in place of the DB2010? They just dont take as many spacers.



I was running the lower arms up pretty high as I am running Jaco prisms and not re-truing them down further. I dont like wasting that kind of money just to be able to mount an A Arm lower.

Just something I noticed, otherwise the car is fantastic. One of our fast drivers took the car for a drive before racing started and on his second lap ran one of the fastest laps of the day besting even his until his last race. He agreed that this car is very well ballanced and neutral in its current setup.
Attached Thumbnails
BMI's DB12R-img_3431.jpg   BMI's DB12R-img_3432.jpg   BMI's DB12R-img_3433.jpg   BMI's DB12R-img_3434.jpg  
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Last edited by Clegg; 12-21-2008 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 12-21-2008, 05:05 PM   #6499
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Originally Posted by kobiwan View Post
I was told that you won't be allowed to run a lipo in the 17.5 class. Is there any truth to that?

All depending on the club you run at. Running a 1 cell LiPo and a 17.5 vs a 4 cell 17.5 car would be a handicap anyway. 1 cell LiPo need to run with a 13.5 to be competitive with the 17.5 4 cell times from what I have been reading.

2 cell Lipo would need a 21.5 to run. and most tracks arent doing that config for lipo and 1/12th.
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Old 12-21-2008, 05:25 PM   #6500
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hey clegg. the new irs arms are a little weaker but the real issue isnt so much the arms its the crappy aluminum screws they com with. get your self some steel screws from speed merchant or associated blue aluminum screws and you wont have this problem anymore. also make sure you tap the new arms with an 8/32 tap so you dont stretch the plastic. this is very important i like the newer arms cause they are symetrical
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Old 12-21-2008, 05:26 PM   #6501
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Originally Posted by kobiwan View Post
I was told that you won't be allowed to run a lipo in the 17.5 class. Is there any truth to that?

As Clegg wrote it'll depend on the rules at the track where you race. As far as any bigger races and ROAR events no as of now only 4-cell nimh will be allowed.
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Old 12-21-2008, 05:26 PM   #6502
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Titanium screws with hex heads are the ticket
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Old 12-21-2008, 05:31 PM   #6503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
I ran the BMI for the first time in a full series of heats and mains today. And the car was phenominal to drive... but at a cost.

The 'new' IRS lower A Arms that come with the kit have a big issue that I discovered. Because there is such a small area that the screw threads into on one solid hit I both cracked the very thin wall on the front screw and stripped that screw out, and caused the rear one to warp and distort into sort of an S pattern.

Attached are pics - the hit that caused this was not really hard and was against a not real well weighed down peice of CRC track system pipe that gave when the car hit.

I had some other .060 lowered IRS fronts from a previous 1/12th that have far more material to screw into, and I think the thing is solid now. But I had to replace both lower IRS front arms from some hits that I wouldnt consider lethal to a 1/12th at all. I believe these bulkier and stronger front blocks that I am using are the same that are sold under the DB2110 number on the BMIracing site. The parts I broke and pictured I believe are DB2010. Is there any issue running the DB2110 in place of the DB2010? They just dont take as many spacers.



I was running the lower arms up pretty high as I am running Jaco prisms and not re-truing them down further. I dont like wasting that kind of money just to be able to mount an A Arm lower.

Just something I noticed, otherwise the car is fantastic. One of our fast drivers took the car for a drive before racing started and on his second lap ran one of the fastest laps of the day besting even his until his last race. He agreed that this car is very well ballanced and neutral in its current setup.

I'm running the IRS symmetrical arms that come with the kit without a problem. There are 2 things you can do which may help.

First, pre tap the screw holes about 7/8 of the way with an 8-32 tap. This will help eliminate the excess stress placed on the plastic when threading the screws in. Leaving the last bit of the screw hole untapped will still give the screw the ability to lock into the plastic.

Second, if you true the tires down you can get the arms closer to the chassis. With the arms being closer it will reduce the chance of breaking the arm and bending the screw. There is less leverage on the arm when you run them closer to the chassis, reducing the chance of breakage.

I have been running the original pair of IRS arms in the kit for the past 4-6 weeks. I still will tweak an aluminum front end screw here and there, but the arms hold up, and I can finish the race. I keep plenty of screws handy and check them between rounds when I had a really good hit.

Hope this helps.
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Old 12-21-2008, 05:44 PM   #6504
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Taping the holes definately helps...I am guessing the BMI aluminum spacers also helps...they fit much tighter to the screw so I think they reduce the arm movement in impacts. I noticed in my old Darkside car with the plastic spacers I was cracking arms too...but when I switched to the BMI car with the BMI aluminum spacers it stopped happening.
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Old 12-21-2008, 05:48 PM   #6505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
Taping the holes definately helps...I am guessing the BMI aluminum spacers also helps...they fit much tighter to the screw so I think they reduce the arm movement in impacts. I noticed in my old Darkside car with the plastic spacers I was cracking arms too...but when I switched to the BMI car with the BMI aluminum spacers it stopped happening.
I believe you have something there with the spacers. I forgot to mention I run them as well. I think the plastic ones can get crushed increasing the chance of breakage.
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:13 PM   #6506
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I have good luck with Nexus......


http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=2395


The pics are rough, but this is how I'm gonna try the lipo. The battery will be taped in, and the receiver pack will taped to the battery. Wiring in the Deans plug really sucked and will take some getting used to, but it seems to all fit under the body. The receiver battery on the side helps balance the chassis, I still have to mount the transponder up in front of the servo too.Tomorrow night I'm going to try it.

As a note, you have to take the battery position bracket out of the car so that this battery will fit low enough to clear the shock. I made some aluminum "feet" that I shoe gooed into the battery slots to position this battery. Jason, you may want to fiddle with something like that. I don't have the time to make 100 of them, so consider that idea a gift.
Where can I get a reciever pack? Can I get one at Nexus as well? Can you give a link to that too please. Thanks
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:14 PM   #6507
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Where can I get a reciever pack? Can I get one at Nexus as well? Can you give a link to that too please. Thanks
http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...8c7144a169994e
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Old 12-22-2008, 10:48 AM   #6508
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looking for some advice. i am going to put a 19t checkpoint into my db12r and i am wondering what changes should i make in setup from the 27t.
the track surface will be carpet(club level) low traction early and higher traction later rough surface.

currently: angled servo, -1* camber, 1* out toe, 5* blocks 1 washer front and back, 30 weight, silver(?), thick sticks, 4 front 4 middle 4.5 rear 1 pod droop, lilca front white rear, batteries back, 42mm front 44mm rear(?)might be 44mm&46mm, shur lube 3 in tubes, ....
this was easy to drive others tried it out and said it was slow.

Racin'4-Fun

still looking for suggestion. i had just a couple responses.

Racin'4-Fun
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:31 AM   #6509
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still looking for suggestion. i had just a couple responses.

Racin'4-Fun
Go with the #4 surelube in the tubes and try yellow rear tires and a red center spring with 35 wt. oil. I also run #4 surelube on the kingpins.
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Old 12-22-2008, 12:26 PM   #6510
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I raced my car on Friday night and it performed better than it had ever done before, the difference between fastest and average laps was about 4/10th sec and the car was very easy to drive consistently . I had previoulsy been using a setup more suited I think to a high traction surface, but we run on Prima Felt GT with a low to medium level of traction. Here's the setup I used.

Front
5deg blocks, 6deg static castor, 1.5 deg negative camber
Silicone lube on kingpins (it dries fully so nothing sticks)
1 deg toe out
Jaco 2x pink, 80% additive, 42 mm dia
4mm ride height, servo up, AE 0.020" springs

Rear
5000wt oil in side dampers, forward position on pod plate
Gold spring, 30wt oil in centre shock, 1mm spacer under forward ball stud (HB Shock)
Thin L plates, stock roll centres on all three balls
Batteries fully back
Jaco Yellow, full width additive, 44.5 mm diameter
4mm ride height, pod level, 1.5 mm droop

Nosram Matrix Evo 07 (2,4,0,0) Hacker 10.5 motor.
PF Speed 12 shell

This setup (for me) was awesome, but now I have just received my 'RR' conversion, any ideas on what, if any changes I should make to the setup.

And, what is the shock lenght needed to get 1.5mm of pod droop on the RR?

Jason, this car just gets better and better, keep up the good work
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