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Old 11-23-2008, 08:35 AM   #6076
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That sucks buddy. Im glad the car was going well before the breakage. It could be worse though. I had my battery blow up in my SE car on its second outing It was perfect before that happened.
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:16 AM   #6077
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Looking forward to getting my upgrade kit

Jason, any plans to make a battery positioning piece for the new lipo?
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:30 AM   #6078
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I have my batts all the way back w/5-degree blocks & shims in the back. I'm wondering how will the car react to putting the batts forward w/ 10-degree blocks & shims forward? Right now I'm at the point of just trying things to see how different I can get the car to handle in the corners.
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:36 AM   #6079
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Very very very very very very very nice I was about 3 to 5 tenths of a second faster per lap than I was with my previous car. Pretty much ran Schreff's set up. The only differences were the tires. Ran double pink fronts (Hey Jason, they worked, ),and I cut the tires .10 of an inch bigger overall. Gonna go with a smaller tire, had some tire rub under the body. Had some traffic to deal with in qualifying so I couldn't really open it up. Qualified 5th in the A finished 2nd behind Mike Ivy (ok, so he put 5 laps on me, second place to him is still bragging rights. ). The only parts I had to replace were the aluminum front end screws. Kinda tweaked 'em when I conducted an agressive board meeting.
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:50 AM   #6080
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Thats great news buddy. And no $20.00 broken T bars.
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:51 AM   #6081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgee888 View Post
Looking forward to getting my upgrade kit

Jason, any plans to make a battery positioning piece for the new lipo?
I will be looking into it for sure. Any pics of the new lipo?
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Old 11-23-2008, 10:04 AM   #6082
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Here's a pic from of it from SMC.

In post #6023, KHoff7 has a pic of it installed in the car.
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Old 11-23-2008, 10:06 AM   #6083
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I will pick one up and see what i can come up with.
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Old 11-23-2008, 10:22 AM   #6084
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It seems like it would be hard to make one to hold it in place. But who knows. The car did great with the lipo, I kept 72g of weight on the back and the car felt just like the cars did when we ran gp3300's. Now all we need is for someone to make something to keep it from hitting the speedo cutoff because that it really a letdown when you are on a tq pace until the 5 min mark .
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Old 11-23-2008, 12:41 PM   #6085
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Hi guys

Thanks for the caster advise

I used today to play around with different setting and ended up with a lap more than last time at the same track, a time that would have put me into the A main

The car wasn't faster, just easier to drive and more consistent. I would still like a bit more steering though so will put the 10 degree caster blocks on next time with both spacers at the back (high bite carpet). What I did find out is that each time you make a change, the car responds to the input, just what you need from a car, love it
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Old 11-23-2008, 02:17 PM   #6086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
Hey Terry,

The castor blocks(0,5,and 10 degree) do not effect your static castor. What they do is change the angle of the upper hinge pin to dictate how much castor reduction you get as your suspension compresses. The castor shims are what will change your static castor. 2 forward is 2 degrees,1 front and 1 rear of the upper arm is 4 degrees and both back is 6 degrees. Try going to both to the back.

Im sure Wim will be ordering some of the conversions and new cars with his next order. You guys will have the stuff very soon.
Hi Jason

Just to make sure I fully understand here, is the higher the number block, the more caster reduction you will get as more cornering forces are applied, and, the postion of the caster shims gives you, 2, 4 & 6 degrees, regardless of the number on the caster block. Sorry for all the questions but want to make sure I have it right.
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Old 11-23-2008, 02:30 PM   #6087
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That is correct terry. The # of the block is the angle that the upper hinge pin sits at. A 10 degree block will sit the upper hinge pin at 10 degrees which will have the most amount of castor reduction throughout suspension compression.
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Old 11-23-2008, 04:25 PM   #6088
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So since the 10-degree block gives the most 'static caster reduction', that must be the reason it's so aggressive/twitchy on initial turn-in?

And the shims affect 'reative caster'? Both shims in rearmost position, 6-degrees, both sides of block/ 4-degrees and in the foremost position, 2-degrees?
Don't flame me if my thinkin' is slowwww
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Old 11-23-2008, 04:42 PM   #6089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KHoff7 View Post
It seems like it would be hard to make one to hold it in place. But who knows. The car did great with the lipo, I kept 72g of weight on the back and the car felt just like the cars did when we ran gp3300's. Now all we need is for someone to make something to keep it from hitting the speedo cutoff because that it really a letdown when you are on a tq pace until the 5 min mark .
What are you using for a receiver pack? A guy on another forum is saying a small 120 mah nimh pack isn't enough to go 5 minutes, let alone 8.
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Old 11-23-2008, 04:48 PM   #6090
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Maybe an aluminum plate like this but for 4 cells. The lipo pack can be glued or taped to the plate. The bottom of the plate can be drilled with the same holes so it can be moved forward or backwards. The use of the plate will bring the weight of the car inline with requirements.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KHoff7 View Post
It seems like it would be hard to make one to hold it in place. But who knows. The car did great with the lipo, I kept 72g of weight on the back and the car felt just like the cars did when we ran gp3300's. Now all we need is for someone to make something to keep it from hitting the speedo cutoff because that it really a letdown when you are on a tq pace until the 5 min mark .
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