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Old 10-18-2008, 02:54 PM   #5626
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There are 2 sets of holes in the chassis and in the servo mount. You can use those to move your servo back further.
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Old 10-18-2008, 03:51 PM   #5627
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Having a little trouble, It looks like the tie rod is going to hit the pin that connects the upper arm and castor block. any suggestions? Does it matter on the se car? I am using the futaba S9650. And the servo mounts are in the correct hole.
I thought that too, but a guy that's helping me set the car told me that a good working car doesn't need that much steering input. If your going full lock to full lock, your not going real fast and the thing needs some work. I'm not fabulous at 12th scale, so I'm still learning as I go. The car is awesome though, have faith in it and work on it. It gets better every time I go out.
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Old 10-18-2008, 04:20 PM   #5628
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windsor. run the servo mounts so that you use all 4 screws in chassis. then with a dremel i grind away just a bit of the right lower arm so the servo ear clears. put the ball studs behind the servo saver in the middle holes. this is the best way to mount the servo flat and the turn buckles will be dead straight i will post pics when i figure out how
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Old 10-18-2008, 04:53 PM   #5629
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windsor. run the servo mounts so that you use all 4 screws in chassis. then with a dremel i grind away just a bit of the right lower arm so the servo ear clears. put the ball studs behind the servo saver in the middle holes. this is the best way to mount the servo flat and the turn buckles will be dead straight i will post pics when i figure out how
The latest servo mounts don't require dremeling... Jason added the extra holes for it to fit right. That was one of the changes that surprised me from my August '07 and December '07 car.
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Old 10-18-2008, 05:09 PM   #5630
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Is there any way of doing it without grinding the front arms. If thats what i have to do I guess it will have to get done.
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Old 10-18-2008, 05:29 PM   #5631
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you only have to remove a small amount steve what are these new mounts you speak of.
Attached Thumbnails
BMI's DB12R-th_20062007008.jpg   BMI's DB12R-th_20062007009.jpg   BMI's DB12R-th_20062007010.jpg  
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Old 10-18-2008, 05:37 PM   #5632
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fullsize i hope
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BMI's DB12R-th_20062007008.jpg   BMI's DB12R-th_20062007009.jpg   BMI's DB12R-th_20062007010.jpg  
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Old 10-18-2008, 05:39 PM   #5633
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Originally Posted by windsor View Post
Having a little trouble, It looks like the tie rod is going to hit the pin that connects the upper arm and castor block. any suggestions? Does it matter on the se car? I am using the futaba S9650. And the servo mounts are in the correct hole.
It will hit but you will not need that much travel.

You want the turnbuckles to be straight across or a little forward at the servo when looking down from the top of the car.
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Old 10-18-2008, 05:47 PM   #5634
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Is there any way of doing it without grinding the front arms. If thats what i have to do I guess it will have to get done.
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you only have to remove a small amount steve what are these new mounts you speak of.
He added an extra hole so you can put four screws in...
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Old 10-18-2008, 05:52 PM   #5635
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oh good i have the new style.
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BMI's DB12R-th_20062007008.jpg   BMI's DB12R-th_20062007009.jpg   BMI's DB12R-th_20062007010.jpg  
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Old 10-18-2008, 05:53 PM   #5636
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steve how do i get these pics full size?
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Old 10-18-2008, 06:07 PM   #5637
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He's having a problem with the tie rod hitting the upper hinge pin not the servo hitting the lower arm.

As Jason said you want the tie rods straight or a little foward but shouldn't be so far foward that they are hitting the upper hinge pin. If they are then either your servo is too far foward or you are running the ball studs on the front of the servo saver instead of on the back. There are 4 holes in the chassis where the servo mounts, 2 on each side of the servo. There are also 2 holes on the bottom of each servo mount. This gives 4 combinations of how far foward or back the servo can be mounted. Different servos have different heights so your servo may not fit right in the exact holes the instructions say. Move your servo back until the tie rods are as straight as possible. The furthest back would be the 2 back holes on the chassis and the 2 foward holes on the servo mounts. That should move the tie rods far enough away from the upper hinge pin so that they don't hit except at extreme steering which you shouldn't be using that much anyway.
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Old 10-18-2008, 06:13 PM   #5638
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steve how do i get these pics full size?
Try going right from the flash card to RCTech. Or try this...http://imageshack.us/
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Old 10-18-2008, 06:15 PM   #5639
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im running my ball studs behind the servo but with a ko 949 i had to grind the arm just a smidge. if i move the servo back a would have to move the ballstuds to the front but then they would hit the upper arms and wont be straight. maybe its just this servo i can show you if i can figure out how to get my images fullsize
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Old 10-18-2008, 06:20 PM   #5640
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Craig, if you move to MD. I will show you how to operate a camera !
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