CarlosG.

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the information, although I have checked the suspension and their seems to be no slop as far as the spring collapsing or the lower pivot ball being loose in the lower arm. It still as tight as the day I built it. I will recheck tonight when I get home to get it ready for the next race day. One more question, I have lost my rear aluminum pod brace, will it be ok to race with it missing? I noticed it gone last night when I was checking out the car to see if I could mount a speed 12 body on the car.

InspGadgt

Baring that check your tires to make sure they are trued to the same height...maybe swap them left to right and see if the chassis leans the other way. Also check your camber...different camber on either side could cause that as well.

SlowerOne

Two things will give this problem...

If the spacers under the front suspension arms don't have a chamfer, the screw will lock out before it clamps the arm down, and the chassis gets a slight bend in it.

If the screws that hold the front suspension to the chassis (same ones as mentioned above) are overtightened, they can pull the chassis. This is because the arms are not flat, and as you tighten up they move the screw. They only need to be tightened enough not to move, the mechanical forces go through the countersink, not the thread. Try loosening the screws, and tightening them just so the countersink is seated in the chassis. Now check the ground clearance. Now, tighten them up tight and check the chassis again. Chances are you have your 0.5mm error again.

In all honesty, there are so many other things that can affect this (all mentioned in previous posts) that if you just live with it, you'll find it makes no difference to handling - it's still annoying though!! HTH

MattOCM

iTrader: (8)

Looking for some help on 12th Scale. I am from houston texas and we just started a 1/12th scale track and we are building a indoor carpet also. I have never raced anything electric. So as much info as possible would be great so i can start running with these guys on the ashpalt. I need to know everything from what car to buy to servos, and tires. I know nothing. Thanks for all your help.

Matt

Uga

The Futaba S9650 was my choice. The analog version of this servo 9602 is not bad either, some people here are also using JR and other brands, I don't remember the numbers for them. You can try from the start rear yellow and front lilac compounds and then depending from the traction start adjusting using this guide

MattOCM

iTrader: (8)

What kit should i buy and what motor and esc

Uga

The BMI kit is pretty neat.. I love the speedpassion speedos and motors, but others are also great.

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

If you check the 1/12 thread you'll find that almost any of the new 1/12 kits are capable of winning, its the driver that makes the most difference in this class. As your starting new the BMI DB12R is an excelent kit, Jason has allready included all the needed upgrades as part of the box stock kit. And the car is very forgiving to new drivers, which not all 1/12 cars are. The instruction manual is first rate and gives detailed tips and instruction on the proper way to build a 1/12 car.

Having said that; you should try and see what cars the other racers are running, its easier to get setup help if your running the same brand as others at your track.

Again the motor and esc depend on what the rules are at your track. I prefer to run brushless and have allways had great products and support from Novak. And as Uga mentioned the Futaba S9650 is a great servo for 1/12.

CarlosG.

iTrader: (12)

Jason, thanks for the information on the cross brace. It did exactly what I was looking for, which was keeping the inside wheel from lifting completely to give me the bite I needed in the chacans. Again thanks.

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

how is the 1/12 going in houston? where is the carpet track going to be? any idea when it will be completed? You guys should come up to dallas. we have a pretty steady 1/12 class going on the carpet. we race saturdays and start around noon. that gets us done by 5-6pm

CarlosG.

iTrader: (12)

I believe the track is in Katy,TX. Their was a post of an 18th scale track converted to 12th scale there.

CarlosG.

iTrader: (12)

I have checked everything and found only that the chasis does get tweaked when using the O-ring to hold the batteries in. The O-ring pulls the left and right side toward each other like making a taco shell.

InspGadgt

My CRC car did that but I haven't had the problem with my BMI though I have been concerned it might. I ran mine with the 1 piece rear brace for awhile though to help prevent that, but had to switch back to the stock wings when I switched to brushless. Do you leave the o-ring on between race days? I make sure and take mine off when the car is just sitting. How did it take before you noticed the tweak?

CarlosG.

iTrader: (12)

It took 3 months before I saw this happen. That is about how long I have had the car.

InspGadgt

Hmmm...I've had mine 5 months now without the problem. Are you leaving the o-ring on the car between race days? That might do it.