Originally Posted by hanulec
I'd recommend you ditch the IRS micro shock and either pick up the Hot Bodies Cyclone 12 (recommended!) or the CRC micro shock. I used to have 5 different IRS shocks pre-built and I would swap them out after every one or two runs. The Hot Bodies shock has a really strong/thick shock shaft, not to mention a bladder.
Please don't ditch the IRS shock for the HB one, the HB shock is much heavier, and the bladder is not an advantage.
I've rebuilt many shocks for people and find the following things give the best action, and longest life, to an IRS/CRC shock. I get 10 to 15 runs from a rebuild, by which time it's lost some oil due to too many sudden stops against the corner markers!!
Change the foam compensator regularly - every two rebuilds is my experience. The foam rots in the oil, goes hard, and makes it difficult to get a good result. This is the biggest factor in getting a good, even shock action that improves the handling of the car. IRS sell these at $4 for 10.
Change the O Ring every three or four rebuilds. Once the O-Ring has expanded to the same diameter as the shock body, or if it dumps oil after a couple of collisions with a barrier, time for a new O-Ring. IRS sells these at $6 for 10.
Always rebuild the shock with Associated Green Slime - a smear on both sides of the O-Ring - to give the best seal and shock action.
Don't use the rubber o-ring to hold the batteries in, use tape. The O ring allows the cells to jump up in a crash, and the only thing holding them in then is the shock - it takes a very hard blow and bends the shaft.
The action of a properly serviced and built IRS shock is superior to the HB shock, so there is no need spend money on one. $20 for foams, O-Rings and Green Slime for a season's racing is all it takes! HTH