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Old 07-30-2008, 10:19 PM   #5206
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I'd recommend you ditch the IRS micro shock and either pick up the Hot Bodies Cyclone 12 (recommended!) or the CRC micro shock. I used to have 5 different IRS shocks pre-built and I would swap them out after every one or two runs. The Hot Bodies shock has a really strong/thick shock shaft, not to mention a bladder.
Please don't ditch the IRS shock for the HB one, the HB shock is much heavier, and the bladder is not an advantage.

I've rebuilt many shocks for people and find the following things give the best action, and longest life, to an IRS/CRC shock. I get 10 to 15 runs from a rebuild, by which time it's lost some oil due to too many sudden stops against the corner markers!!

Change the foam compensator regularly - every two rebuilds is my experience. The foam rots in the oil, goes hard, and makes it difficult to get a good result. This is the biggest factor in getting a good, even shock action that improves the handling of the car. IRS sell these at $4 for 10.
Change the O Ring every three or four rebuilds. Once the O-Ring has expanded to the same diameter as the shock body, or if it dumps oil after a couple of collisions with a barrier, time for a new O-Ring. IRS sells these at $6 for 10.
Always rebuild the shock with Associated Green Slime - a smear on both sides of the O-Ring - to give the best seal and shock action.
Don't use the rubber o-ring to hold the batteries in, use tape. The O ring allows the cells to jump up in a crash, and the only thing holding them in then is the shock - it takes a very hard blow and bends the shaft.

The action of a properly serviced and built IRS shock is superior to the HB shock, so there is no need spend money on one. $20 for foams, O-Rings and Green Slime for a season's racing is all it takes! HTH
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Old 07-31-2008, 12:25 AM   #5207
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I was curious as to why people are bending shock shafts.

I asked about durability because the car looks like it's built just a little bit better than most other cars. More specifically, the rear flex plate design. The link cars just look like they'd be more prone to having the rear ouf of alignment with a small wack on the side.
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Old 07-31-2008, 03:04 AM   #5208
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I haven't had to change my volume compensator foam yet but I do let it soak in oil for awhile before installing it. I think this helps to let the oil penetrate better into it.

Shock shafts get bent from the battery in heavy accidents. There is an 0-ring holding it in place and in a heavy accident that is not enough to prevent the battery from hitting the shock. However in the majority of accidents it works fine. If you want to be more sure about it use strapping tape to hold the battery in. There is slots provided for the tape. I've bent shock shafts in my CRC and my Darkside cars...so it's something that just happens.
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Old 07-31-2008, 02:39 PM   #5209
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Originally Posted by xrayeddy View Post
I was curious as to why people are bending shock shafts.

I asked about durability because the car looks like it's built just a little bit better than most other cars. More specifically, the rear flex plate design. The link cars just look like they'd be more prone to having the rear ouf of alignment with a small wack on the side.
Relax Man! No need to be afraid of the shock shaft or anything about the car. The shafts are only bending when you realy knock the hell out of something.
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Old 07-31-2008, 04:18 PM   #5210
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Relax Man! No need to be afraid of the shock shaft or anything about the car. The shafts are only bending when you realy knock the hell out of something.

I run 19t or stock and I cannot ever remember bending a shock shaft, but I allways tape in my batts also. I'm thinking this is more of a problem if your running mod, or it could be that I'm just too slow.
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Old 07-31-2008, 04:21 PM   #5211
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Ok, Im really new to 1/12th scale. (Like it so far) Trouble is I have been super busy lately and have not been able to do all the reading I need to in order to learn about what some of the set-up tricks are. So, I thought I would just post a few basic questions (which Im sure are here about 3k times) and hope someone in the know will take the time to answer them.

1) What's the typical effect of changing the height of the front shock mount ball-stud (On power & Off power)?

2) What's the effect of changing the weight of the fluid in the damper tubes?

3) Which body is best for running stock on asphalt?

4) What's the main impact of going to lighter (thinner) flex plates?

5) Which caster blocks do most people use for asphalt?

Thanks in advance!

This will cover most of your questions
http://richardchang.com/hobby.php?topic=112setup
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Old 07-31-2008, 05:09 PM   #5212
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This will cover most of your questions
http://richardchang.com/hobby.php?topic=112setup
Nice! Yes that helps. Thanks.

Anyone else know of any Cheat Sheets?
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Old 07-31-2008, 05:15 PM   #5213
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Hey Jason,
Sometime ago you made mention of creating a 12th setup system. Any development on that, or even potential time frame? I've been thinking of getting the unity tool one, but it's a little pricy.

Just curious on what the plan is.

Later,
Aaron

Has this been worked on? Is it available? Whats the word?
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Old 07-31-2008, 07:16 PM   #5214
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Time has not allowed me to complete a setup station yet. I would like to finish it up very shortly. I will try my best.
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Old 07-31-2008, 09:08 PM   #5215
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I was wondering if anybody has a problem with the chasis being .5mm or so off from either side ( left or right) ride height wise? I have had this problem with the DB12r and any other 12thscale I owned. Any hep would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-31-2008, 09:16 PM   #5216
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hey guys i just got my DB12R and i LOVE it. it is my first 12th scale to own. I ran it at the local asphalt track last weekend and im going to go run some carpet oval with it saturday. Keep up the good work.
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Old 08-01-2008, 03:04 AM   #5217
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I was wondering if anybody has a problem with the chasis being .5mm or so off from either side ( left or right) ride height wise? I have had this problem with the DB12r and any other 12thscale I owned. Any hep would be greatly appreciated.
That usually happens if your car is a little out of balance. It will feel ok but will sit a little uneven
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Old 08-01-2008, 03:05 AM   #5218
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hey guys i just got my DB12R and i LOVE it. it is my first 12th scale to own. I ran it at the local asphalt track last weekend and im going to go run some carpet oval with it saturday. Keep up the good work.
Thanks buddy. If you have any questions at all let me know
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Old 08-01-2008, 03:07 AM   #5219
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I was wondering if anybody has a problem with the chasis being .5mm or so off from either side ( left or right) ride height wise? I have had this problem with the DB12r and any other 12thscale I owned. Any hep would be greatly appreciated.
I've noticed this in 1/12th no matter what the car and have narrowed it down to 2 causes I can see. First off is one of the front springs have collapsed more then the other. In those cases you end up with more droop on one side then the other if you look closely. The other is one lower pivot ball has more play then the other in the lower front suspension. Because stock springs make contact with the ball and not the arm then if one side is more loose then the other you will have a lower side.
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Old 08-01-2008, 07:13 AM   #5220
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Originally Posted by xrayeddy View Post
I was curious as to why people are bending shock shafts.

I asked about durability because the car looks like it's built just a little bit better than most other cars. More specifically, the rear flex plate design. The link cars just look like they'd be more prone to having the rear ouf of alignment with a small wack on the side.
I don't have a problem with bending shock shafts and I "only" use the o-rings for battery retention. And it's not like I never hit the boards...

And "specifically" the rear flex plate design makes the DB12R MORE resistant to "alignment changes" when hitting stuff than any other 1/12 car I've driven. Jason is the Ron Popeil of chassis manufacturers...just set it and forget it--go racin'.

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Anyone else know of any Cheat Sheets?
Armed with Rich Chang's wonder-sheet you don't NEED any other cheat sheets. You've got it all right there in your hand.

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Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
I was wondering if anybody has a problem with the chasis being .5mm or so off from either side ( left or right) ride height wise? I have had this problem with the DB12r and any other 12thscale I owned. Any hep would be greatly appreciated.
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I've noticed this in 1/12th no matter what the car and have narrowed it down to 2 causes I can see. First off is one of the front springs have collapsed more then the other. In those cases you end up with more droop on one side then the other if you look closely. The other is one lower pivot ball has more play then the other in the lower front suspension. Because stock springs make contact with the ball and not the arm then if one side is more loose then the other you will have a lower side.
DING DING DING DING DING--these are the FIRST two things to check Carlos and the most likely causes if it's always 1/2mm to the same side.

Another thing to check if you're using the BMI front height adjusters would be to make sure the chamfered side is down toward the chassis. Myself--I'd pay another $1 a set if they were chamfered on both sides so I had one less thing to think about when changing them. I can't tell you how many times I can't remember if I made sure of this when changing spacers and have to pull 'em all apart again and look. I invariably have, but I have to check.
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