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Old 07-29-2008, 01:40 PM   #5191
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If your Spektrum is cutting out and it wasn't previously you probably have a battery pack that is going bad. The cheap fix is to use the Spektrum capacitor. I know Wayne was having an issue with his too and we tested with a capacitor and it fixed the problem. I had the same problem years ago with my F1 car and couldn't figure it out. The car seemed as fast as before but was cutting out. Tried everything I could think of to fix it and couldn't get it to work right until I replaced the battery packs...and that was with 6 cell even...4 cell is even more sensitive.
Yup I am thinking it could be the Battery Pack or possibly the SR3000 rx? I am going to change to the Micro Rx and see if that helps? If not I'll try another pack?

Changing to the Micro Rx will also allow me to clean up my layout a little and give me the needed extra space if I want to add the Spektrum Rx Cap.

I was also a little surprised at how fast my last set of tires wore out! They pretty much only lasted for the Main at the last race and then 2 qualifiers on Sunday! By the Main on Sunday I probably should have changed them out but I'm Pake But I did buy a new set of tires so I'll be good for the next race.
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Old 07-29-2008, 03:02 PM   #5192
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The micro RX should help. It has built in capacitors allready to allow it to work better with 4 cell racing. But there are still some people who have to use a capacitor with it, mostly that is just in mod racing.

You might want to consider the lowered pod plates for the rear. Those will allow you to get a bit more life out of your tires.
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Old 07-29-2008, 04:23 PM   #5193
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I will have them on the site again this week. We ran low on pod plates and the last batch are out for anodize. They should be back by thursday or friday. Sorry for the delay.
sweet! for a moment I thought I was gonna have to buy an R5
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Old 07-29-2008, 04:34 PM   #5194
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Having run only 1/12 all of 1 time with a Rev3 , how durable is the db12r? From the looks of it, it seems like a well constructed car ( ie. overbuilt) and would cater to newbs like me.


Not looking to start a war , so feel free to PM me with an answer.
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Old 07-29-2008, 04:37 PM   #5195
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Very durable...the only thing I've broken has been the lower pod plate because somehow I keep ending up going backwards into a curb at full speed Dunno how I keep doing that though.
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Old 07-29-2008, 06:10 PM   #5196
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Very durable. I run machined delrin upper front arms which are stronger than stock but over the course of a season I broke nothing running 13.5 and the one time we ran mod I broke a wheel on a pipe that wasn't aligned properly. I also bent a few from arm screws that warped the holes in the arms so those were replaced once as well.
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Old 07-30-2008, 06:07 AM   #5197
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Very durable. I run machined delrin upper front arms which are stronger than stock but over the course of a season I broke nothing running 13.5 and the one time we ran mod I broke a wheel on a pipe that wasn't aligned properly. I also bent a few from arm screws that warped the holes in the arms so those were replaced once as well.
Actually,

Those machined upper arms flex more then you think. Hold them in your hands and try and flex. Now do the same with the Associated arms. Take into consideation some heavy hits up front. They also can develop slop over time. Much faster then the Associated.

Just my experience.
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Old 07-30-2008, 08:26 AM   #5198
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Very durable...the only thing I've broken has been the lower pod plate because somehow I keep ending up going backwards into a curb at full speed Dunno how I keep doing that though.
The durability is good! I have not broken a single part since I got the car. The only thing you might need to keep is shock shafts, as they tend to bend.
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Old 07-30-2008, 05:39 PM   #5199
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Hey Jason,

Sent ya an e-mail...gotta fix up my baby! Still waiting to hear back from a couple customers but I figured I'd send what I know I need so far.
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Old 07-30-2008, 05:58 PM   #5200
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The durability is good! I have not broken a single part since I got the car. The only thing you might need to keep is shock shafts, as they tend to bend.
I'd recommend you ditch the IRS micro shock and either pick up the Hot Bodies Cyclone 12 (recommended!) or the CRC micro shock. I used to have 5 different IRS shocks pre-built and I would swap them out after every one or two runs. The Hot Bodies shock has a really strong/thick shock shaft, not to mention a bladder.
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Old 07-30-2008, 06:01 PM   #5201
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The durability is good! I have not broken a single part since I got the car. The only thing you might need to keep is shock shafts, as they tend to bend.
When I first got my DB12R I broke a couple of the original style lower pod plates. Since going to the new style pod plate I hadn't broken a thing up until a couple of weeks ago. I had my car dialed. It felt amazing so I handed the controller to another racer and told him to try it out and see what he thought. He lasted 2 corners and broke a flex plate.
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Old 07-30-2008, 06:22 PM   #5202
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I'd recommend you ditch the IRS micro shock and either pick up the Hot Bodies Cyclone 12 (recommended!) or the CRC micro shock. I used to have 5 different IRS shocks pre-built and I would swap them out after every one or two runs. The Hot Bodies shock has a really strong/thick shock shaft, not to mention a bladder.
The CRC shock is pretty much identicle to the IRS shock. I've bent plenty of their shock shafts too. The IRS shock lasts me a lot more then a couple of runs. I typically get 6 to 9 out of mine before it needs a rebuild. I do add an 0-ring around the shock cap like the CRC does. The cap looks the same between them both.
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Old 07-30-2008, 08:09 PM   #5203
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This car is the most reliable 1/12th scale I have ever driven. The only thing I have broken on this car in 11 months of racing is rollover antennas.
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Old 07-30-2008, 08:39 PM   #5204
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Ok, Im really new to 1/12th scale. (Like it so far) Trouble is I have been super busy lately and have not been able to do all the reading I need to in order to learn about what some of the set-up tricks are. So, I thought I would just post a few basic questions (which Im sure are here about 3k times) and hope someone in the know will take the time to answer them.

1) What's the typical effect of changing the height of the front shock mount ball-stud (On power & Off power)?

2) What's the effect of changing the weight of the fluid in the damper tubes?

3) Which body is best for running stock on asphalt?

4) What's the main impact of going to lighter (thinner) flex plates?

5) Which caster blocks do most people use for asphalt?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-30-2008, 10:15 PM   #5205
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Well wanted to change my electronics layout a little and found out what my problem really was on Sunday. Turns out a battery bar came loose and it was attached to the end cell in the pack which also had come loose from the rest of the pack

So fixed that up but still changed to the Spektrum Micro Rx.

New layout is a little cleaner it's no OD wiring job or a Gadget one But none the less cleaner for me

mrrcguy wish I could be of more help, but I am sure it won't be long for some of the Real BMI experts to answer your questions for ya!

2) A thicker oil will slow down the movement of the damper tubes which should also mean slower weight transfer from side to side.

3) I have run Proline Speed 12, Parma Speed 8 and Zytec, but could not tell you the difference between them. Except that I like the durability of the Parma bodies.

4) Thinner flex plates will allow more rearpod movement. Usually good for bumpier parking lot racing I think. Although I am running the standard flex plates.

Again these are just my thoughts and will probably be corrected very soon

I am new to 12th Scale Racing myself. My BMI was bought used but in excellent shape. It was built per the instructions I believe with the only change I made was to go to the softer rear spring.

And I love how my car is handling and running now!
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