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Old 06-24-2008, 08:53 PM   #5011
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Does anyone know where I can get an aluminum and or titanium screw set for the BMI 1/12th scale?

Thanks in advance.

Peter
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:28 PM   #5012
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If you provide a screw list Steve at Speed Tech RC will put one together for you
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Old 06-25-2008, 12:17 AM   #5013
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8-32 x 5/8" Alloy Flat Head Screws

need to replace these on the car as the front suspension is way out due to them bending, yes I know don't crash.

is there a fix?

anyone got info on something better or should I just go for the red or blue screws from the CRC/AE?

centre's are now
front 61.25mm
rear 59.74mm

I now have toe out on the upper arms, corrected by the turnbuckles
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Old 06-25-2008, 01:57 PM   #5014
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Hey Chris,

Some may have issue with this, but when I brought it up a while back, either here or on the 1/12 thread (or both), most seemed in agreement. I've taken to balancing the main plate of the chassis with the electronics on it and ignoring the rear pod and motor. Unlike a T(axi) C(ab) we use a solid axle--regardless the weight side-to-side both tires are flat on the "road" and the rear axle is as level as your tire size is even. An extreme example would be that you could tape another motor on top of one rear tire and you wouldn't affect tweak.

What WILL affect tweak, though, is putting electronics onto the main plate in an effort to balance the rear pod out. Yes you can get the tweak to even out, but you will have different pressures on the tweak screws/springs (and this should show up even more on the "tweakless" BMI) and can manifest itself as different ride heights side-to-side. We're not talking about anything enormous here, but a difference.

In a perfect situation the rear pod would balance too but, as Brian Bodine found when he experimented with a mass-centered motor pod, it wasn't worth the effort. There was no effect on handling, it only evened up the VERY modest difference in tire wear across the rear. This wear is more easily compensated for by rotating the tires side-to-side every run or two.

When balancing I've gone on the theory that the stuff that's symetric (front suspension, hardware on the sides (hockey sticks, etc), body mounts (anything you install equal numbers of on both sides) can be left off. I've done it both ways now and obtained the same result. I do install the antenna mount as it affects placement. The IRS buttons work perfectly inserted in the rearmost hole for the battery brace. I sure wish the buttons didn't have the hole in the face--it cuts their "sensitivity" enormously. I've almost found it easier in this regard to have the front suspension mounted, etc, just to help overcome the "flat face" the hole creates on-center.

Using this method I've built 3 DB12R's now (and a CRAPLOAD of 3.2R's, a Darkside, etc, but you have to drill your holes for these) and these cars all track dead straight on or off the power as long as the diff is adjusted properly. A fact I attribute to using the Niftech alignment tool is that every time I throw a brand new car on the track I never have to adjust the trim and it drives perfectly straight hands-off every time. I've taken to counting on that--it just does. On to worrying about something else.

Now if I could just learn to drive...
Yep I do remember when this came up and I may have to try and see how much I'm off balancing like that. Of course with my lack of driving skills it really may not matter that much
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Old 06-25-2008, 11:55 PM   #5015
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Can anyone explain to me the difference in adjusting the side damper oil thickness as compared to adjusting the L plate thickness?


I am working on a setup for VERY VERY LOW traction carpet. Would anyone like to take a guess at what they think a good setup would be?
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Old 06-26-2008, 12:53 AM   #5016
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Originally Posted by sneak191 View Post
Does anyone know where I can get an aluminum and or titanium screw set for the BMI 1/12th scale?

Thanks in advance.

Peter
We package an OD Racing combination screw set with Lunsford Ti screws for all the bottom screws and any color anodized aluminum screws for the top screws. We also have all Ti and all Aluminum sets. See www.OD12.com for contact info
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Old 06-26-2008, 06:27 AM   #5017
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We package an OD Racing combination screw set with Lunsford Ti screws for all the bottom screws and any color anodized aluminum screws for the top screws. We also have all Ti and all Aluminum sets. See www.OD12.com for contact info
I just looked at your site and that is probably the neatest 12th wiring ever!
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Old 06-26-2008, 08:53 AM   #5018
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yeah, i just noticed that too, its awesome. Really low center of gravity.
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Old 06-26-2008, 11:24 AM   #5019
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thanks guys
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Old 06-26-2008, 03:58 PM   #5020
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Which upper arm mount do most people use for med bite asphalt? (0, 5, 10)
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Old 06-26-2008, 07:50 PM   #5021
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i never saw anyone not use the 10 degree caster block.
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Old 06-26-2008, 07:51 PM   #5022
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10
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Old 06-26-2008, 09:09 PM   #5023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatbear View Post
Can anyone explain to me the difference in adjusting the side damper oil thickness as compared to adjusting the L plate thickness?


I am working on a setup for VERY VERY LOW traction carpet. Would anyone like to take a guess at what they think a good setup would be?
I have been finding this year that adjusting the dampening has 3 affects. One is that it mimicks what the flex plates do in that stiffer = less rear bite and softer = more rear bite. Second, it affects the weight transfer, stiffer = less and softer = more. Third it affects the rate of weight transfer, stiffer = slower and softer = faster.

Now the funny thing is that the way this can all make the car drive or "feel" can be very interesting. On low bite for instance a softer rear setup (damper lube and flex plates) will:
-give more traction
-give more steering (because weight is being allowed to transfer thereby transferring more weight to the front end for more steering)
Whereas a stiffer rear setup in the same situation will make the car push while having no rear bite. The stiffer rear setup will seem docile, smooth and easy to drive as it pushes going in to the turn but it may spin unsuspectingly in the middle of the corner because the rear couldn't transfer enough weight.

Now take this exact same scenario but put it in high bite and the car will feel like the opposite is happening. The softer rear end setup will not want to traction roll (as easily) and will drive easier because the softer setup is "absorbing" the load easier. The stiffer setup will feel "twitchy" and want to traction roll because it can't "absorb" the G-forces at a slow enough rate and thus transfers them more instantaneously through the chassis. Of course these are all generalizations but you get the idea. Now if anyone else has found different please chime in as it is more important to get to the truth than for me to be "right". I've been wrong before and if I continue living it will happen a whole bunch more.

Jason notes that you always want to match your spring with your dampening, the flex plates are our rear springs and the damper tubes are our "dampers". Thus if you go stiffer in flex plate you should go stiffer in damper lube and vise versa.
HTH.
I only wish I had learned this stuff a lot sooner than this racing season.
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Last edited by darnold; 06-26-2008 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 06-27-2008, 05:41 AM   #5024
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Jason you have email and PM
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Old 06-27-2008, 06:26 AM   #5025
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Mike Jrs new DB10R body, this is gonna be fun!!!! and Jason did a great job on the car!!!!!
Attached Thumbnails
BMI's DB12R-100_0962-2-.jpg   BMI's DB12R-100_0967-2-.jpg   BMI's DB12R-100_0966-2-.jpg  
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