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Old 01-28-2008, 01:25 PM   #3946
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If you're going to replace screws for weight, aluminium is half the weight of steel, titanium is 2/3 the weight - that's why you see so many coloured screws, they are aluminium.

Beware that you should not replace the screws that hold the front of the L plates. These are load-bearing, and one good side impact will snap an aluminium, or bend a titanium, screw. Guess how I know that...

Apart from that location, I have replaced all my screws with aluminium ones, and it all works fine - as well as losing some weight. HTH
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Old 01-28-2008, 02:50 PM   #3947
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I bent the front suspension screws (the only alloy screws in the kit) after a hit. I replaced them with stainless screws (with hexes) and it's all good.
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:09 PM   #3948
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really? i thought those would be the stronger ones. So aluminum is a better bet than titanium? where would i get those colored screws though? The problem is that the hex that come with the kit were stripping incredibly easy, and i was using the right hex drivers, and was going slowly, but its no biggie really. but shouldnt titanium be stronger for the L plates than the stock ones?

Those two aluminum looking things are set screws, but i have no idea where they go?
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:16 PM   #3949
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Those two set screws you have leftover, should go on top of the rear pivots on each side of the car, the pivots on the back of the hockey stick shaped fiberglass pieces,see step 11 of your instructions, and step 14 for how to adjust them.
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:17 PM   #3950
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Generally the front suspension screws are quite strong in aluminum. I've worn many many more out from use then I have bent them.

You'd think titanium would be better in high stress areas but even though titanium is supposed to have a higher strength then steel for some reason when it comes to screws it often does not.
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:27 PM   #3951
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hey ferrarimk13. im at brownies pretty much every friday night. bring it down and i will go over the car with you. im running the car at 360 and got it pretty much dialed. myself and john can help you sort things out you are going to love this car!!
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:47 PM   #3952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ffejdat View Post
Those two set screws you have leftover, should go on top of the rear pivots on each side of the car, the pivots on the back of the hockey stick shaped fiberglass pieces,see step 11 of your instructions, and step 14 for how to adjust them.
ahh, thanks, i got it now.

XtremeMadness, John convinced me to get the BMI, even though i was looking at some other cars, and im glad i went with it. Im most likely going to take my time with the car, as im planning on running next season, or if i could, during the summer sometime, since 360 is going to have the asphalt? Im looking forward to getting it all done, but this is also going to be my first electric, so everything is different than nitro. If John gets shock oil in this week, ill stop by on friday with the car, so he could tell me if i did anything wrong
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Old 01-29-2008, 07:53 AM   #3953
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I looked and RCscrewz has a entire set for $20 which is good, but is there anywhere i can get the colored ones individually? http://www.tracksidercproducts.com/Screws.htm Is this good?
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Old 01-29-2008, 08:55 AM   #3954
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I get mine from http://fastener-express.com

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Old 01-29-2008, 08:57 AM   #3955
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hm, those are all metric, and the BMI uses standard, so i dont think i want a mix of them, lol.
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Old 01-29-2008, 11:27 AM   #3956
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They do standard to in ally in 3 colours blue, red, and purple you need the ally section the scroll down the page the metrics are at the top.

http://www.fastener-express.com/inde...S&Category=218


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Old 01-29-2008, 11:53 AM   #3957
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ah, thanks a lot. Most screws on the bottom of the DB12R are 4-40 1/4 inch, countersunk? Im not sure what size would be needed for the front suspension screws, the phillips one, what hex size should i change it to?
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Old 01-29-2008, 01:17 PM   #3958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
GYou'd think titanium would be better in high stress areas but even though titanium is supposed to have a higher strength then steel for some reason when it comes to screws it often does not.

Pound for pound, titanium IS stronger than steel. However, given a screw is a particular size, a steel screw will be stronger than a titanium screw of the same size. Therefore, given the facts, I wouldn't think titanium would be better in high stress areas than steel.

If you made a titanium screw the same length and weight as a steel screw, your titanium screw would be both stronger, and thicker than the steel screw.

About half your screws should be steel, the rest aluminum or nylon for ultimate performance. Screws holding things like body mounts and pivot balls should be steel, while the majority of the rest can be aluminum or even nylon for the ultimate in weight savings. Far too many people run aluminum screws everywhere in their car, only to see them break off in the piece they're screwed in to ending their race due to a crash or errant corner marshals foot or similar.
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Old 01-29-2008, 01:27 PM   #3959
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i was thinking of changing most of the screws holding everything, from the bottom of the chassis, and the screws holding the CF plate to the motor pods.
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Old 01-29-2008, 09:30 PM   #3960
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I use titanium screws in my car everywhere and I have not had any problem with the screws. So I can say titanium is strong enough everywhere (at least in a 1/12th car).

I can imaging that the size of the screws are not selected on the basis of material strength calculation. It is more done on the basis of this screws can still be easily managed by human fingers during maintenance. I can imaging a lot of this screws could be much smaller, specially if it is made of steel.
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