BMI's DB12R

[AdrianM]

Keep in mind that this kit is pretty much full option out of the box.

I comes with expensive upgrades like:

IRS Hard Anno king pin pivot balls.

New IRS symetrical lower arms.

IRS Ni-Teflon center shock.

IRS ride height adjusters.

BMI Ni-Teflon rear pivot balls.

New BMI rear pod.

BMI CNC Delrin damper tubes

BMI Ni-Teflon ball studs

I am sure I missed something but you get the idea...you do not need to add a thing to this car. If you add some of this stuff to a 12L4 you will be over $250 easy.

[smojoe]

Originally Posted by AdrianM

Keep in mind that this kit is pretty much full option out of the box.

I comes with expensive upgrades like:

IRS Hard Anno king pin pivot balls.

New IRS symetrical lower arms.

IRS Ni-Teflon center shock.

IRS ride height adjusters.

BMI Ni-Teflon rear pivot balls.

New BMI rear pod.

BMI CNC Delrin damper tubes

BMI Ni-Teflon ball studs

I am sure I missed something but you get the idea...you do not need to add a thing to this car. If you add some of this stuff to a 12L4 you will be over $250 easy.

what screws and bearings?

[AdrianM]

It will come with black oxide 4-40 hex steel screws and alloy 8-32 phillips screws for the front end.

FYI, my car with an Airtronics 94761 servo, Keyence speedo, Spektrum micro rx, Spektrum cap, 4 cells, 19T Komodo and heavy weight Parma Speed 8 body is right at .5oz over weight. That is very light for a 1/12th car.

The stainless metal sheilded bearings are from Boca Bearings. They are smooth and they last.

[EricF]

What type of diif nut assembly does the car come with, standard cone washer, nut or the slapmaster thrust assembly?

Thanks,
E

[EricF]

Jason,
Any plans on selling front bumper and stand to match the chassis. I saw that Cyrul does that with his car. Personally I think that's kind of trick. Custom bumber and stand You can add that to my order.

E

[protc3]

the car comes with aluminum screws for the front arms.the rest are black oxide steel.i am trying to include all the necesary upgrades that enhance performance and keep the price as low as possible.

the car comes with the latest IRS big ring diff assembly.it no longer uses a cone washer.

i will be making cool stuff for the car such as delrin upper arms,aluminum castor blocks,full setup stations and so on.i will talk to paul at pdub and see if i can get him to get a line of car stands and bumpers done.i dont want to step on his toes with that one.


i will post both our carpet and asphalt setups within the next 2-3 days.this weekend i will be busy with preparing the parts for packaging.i will be here as much as possible to answer all of the questions.i will be more frequent on here after this weekend

[protc3]

i also want to let you guys know that i completed the developement on our new servo mounts today.they allow you to run your servo flat or angled.they really do look nice.i will post a pic very soon

[robk]

Will you be taking pre orders?

[sportpak]

robk, love the avatar dude..

NO WHAMMIES.....STOP!!

[protc3]

Originally Posted by robk

Will you be taking pre orders?

i am taking pre orders.you can email me at bmachine@tampabay.rr.com with your pre order along with your contact info.i will contact you for payment info when they are ready.shouldnt be much longer

[protc3]

i have some good close up pics of our new rear pod.

[smojoe]

Originally Posted by protc3

i have some good close up pics of our new rear pod.

and the servo mount....?

[protc3]

its coming.here a close up of the rear suspension.

[protc3]

hey guys,

i wanted to take the time to explain our new style of rear suspension. it is a completely new style of rear suspension that i developed to act as a mix between a link and a T bar car. i have always felt that both had there advantages but neither were perfect. T bar cars are known for there abundance of steering and for carrying alot of cornerspeed but always have had a problem on bumpy tracks and link cars are more smoothe but lack some of the corner speed and steering that a T bar car has but excels on a bumpy track and also in high bite situations. what we did is developed a system that uses a 3 ball pivot system with flextures for side spring tension instead of the use of coil springs.we did this to gain the progressive side spring tension of a T bar car with the isolated for and aft spring tension of a link car. this has allowed us to achieve the possitive characteristics of both proven styles of rear suspension systems plus it has gained its own unique advantages.the biggest advantage we have found is that the car rolls very differently than anything i have seen. it rolls almost like it is like a swiss watch,it reacts exactly the same to the same spot on the track each time.i know this sounds funny but but usually with 1/12th cars if you hit a corner multiple times with any fluctuation of speed going in,the car acts drasticlly different.it doesnt feel like much but it really does effect your driving and consistancy when you feel like the car acted funny when you went in the corner too fast or too slow.it more or less makes you have to concentrate on making sure you dont miss a line.this car drives as hard as you drive it.it does not act differently at higher or lower speeds. it tones down if you are not going as fast into the corner instead of getting to be a handfull if you miss a line.this really helps for when you get into traffic. another high point is that it doesnt tweak.the rear end is very difficult to break or tweak.due to the way it is designed,there is no room for slip in the rear end to create tweak.the central pivot is all one piece and is securely located. the 2 flex plates are solid mounted at there front position and then a pivot ball and capture are connected at there opposite end.these threaded pivot balls are then mounted to the rear pod to allow a free pivoting action between all three inline pivot assemblies. now if you picture the rear end,you can see for the rear end to tweak or break,it will need to break both flex plates being that if you take a hit on 1 side of the car,you need to pull 1 side to break one and compress the other one to break that to have any chance to tweaking or ending your run.if any of you are familiar with the popsicle stick bridge,you will understand how much force it will take to do this. another nice feature is that the flex plates do not fatigue like T bars do due to the fact that they are not under nearly as much load.the load on the flex plates is absorbed by 3 different points and distributed evenly to avoid fatigue and breakage. i hope this gives a good explination of how it works and why it is durable.if you have any questions at all i will be happy to answer them for you

[InspGadgt]

One thing I really like about this design that I haven't seen mentioned yet is the rear pivot mount is bolted to the rear pod and not to the chassis like all the other link cars...why does this matter you ask? Well with the pivot mount bolted to the rear pod it then moves with the rear pod. So you can move the motor all the way foward and not have to worry about it rubbing on the pivot and causing binding or tweaking.