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Old 11-13-2007, 06:38 PM   #2821
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Orion made some too!
http://www.teamorion.com/Products/Battery+Accessories

The next question is: Where is it possible to purchase such plug?
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Old 11-13-2007, 06:41 PM   #2822
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Originally Posted by BSchorr View Post

3. What connectors are those?
You can also get connectors from E-Flight which are a little shorter than the Corally plugs. Although I solder my battery connections, I think the shorter plugs are nicer for 1/12th scale.

http://eflightstuff.com/4mmGoldConnector.htm
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Old 11-13-2007, 08:50 PM   #2823
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A little harder to find but much smaller is the Reedy connectors. I've been using those and like them a lot.
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Old 11-13-2007, 08:58 PM   #2824
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The connectors are also available from Tekin

http://teamtekin.com/accessories.html
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Old 11-13-2007, 10:53 PM   #2825
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
More on power steering. Be sure to check/reset droop (I have goofed this up before)


Depends on the motor, tire, and amount of traction. I have used up to a Speedmerchant black, which is heavier than copper, with pink tires and a stock motor. It was a strange track though, as the carpet was worn out, but there was black groove.

Starting with the gold is a good idea, and adjust from there.



CraigX's setup for the Halloween Classic was on Jack. His car was excellent.
Thanks. Sorry to be a pain, but why did you change the centre spring? What happens when you go from softer to harder spring?

Who's got a copy of CraigX's set-up, please?

Thanks again!
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Old 11-13-2007, 11:11 PM   #2826
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The kind of connectors I am looking for, on the mail end that goes on the speed control wires.. the wire goes in a hole in the side of it..
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Old 11-14-2007, 04:45 AM   #2827
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Is there anywhere else I can get these? I thought i seen a guy making some of these on here..

Here is teh link to what I am talking about

http://www.redrc.net/2007/11/roche-1...ims/#more-6381
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Old 11-14-2007, 05:15 AM   #2828
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Hi Ben,

That's my car on the BMI site. I think most of the guys have answered the questions...

1. The rod is indeed the Front end brace from Calandra.
2. The screws on my car are stainless steel from RCScrewz.
3. The connectors are from E-Flight - 3.5mm Gold Bullet Connectors #EFLA241
4. Those are kimbrough gear covers died black.

Other items not so noticeable:
1. I replaced the ball studs on the damper tubes and servo saver with Losi Female ball studs. Did this mainly for looks as it eliminates the ugly locknuts.
2. I cut down the motor tab ala RichChang method.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Jeff

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Originally Posted by BSchorr View Post
Ok fellow BMI car guys, I got a few questions, Here are some pics of a car on the BMI site...

http://www.bmiracing.com/images/JeffGee1.jpg
http://www.bmiracing.com/images/JeffGee2.jpg

1. What is that silver rod inbetween the suspension arms...

2. Where can I get the screws he has.. Mine rust due to my basement being humid, so i need to upgrade the screws...

3. What connectors are those?

4. Where can I get that spur gear and spur gear covers? The track i race on is so dirty, have to practically clean the diff everyrun!

I will def buy the screws, connectors and spur/cover, so if you guys can link me, that'll be awsome, im still new to 12th, dont know what i need.

Ben
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Old 11-14-2007, 05:45 AM   #2829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSchorr View Post
Is there anywhere else I can get these? I thought i seen a guy making some of these on here..

Here is teh link to what I am talking about

http://www.redrc.net/2007/11/roche-1...ims/#more-6381
Shims like that worked well with the Associated or IRS-modified Associated arms because you were typically only shimming them up 2.5-3mm. With the new IRS arms you're having to shim them up 5-6mm...that's a HUGE pile of shims. When I first installed the new arms on my cars I had to use TWO sets of the FibreLyte shims (which come two each .5, 1 and 1.5mm per set) per car. At about $20/set landed here in the US (if you buy in quantity AND go through the hassle of ordering direct from overseas) that's no real savings over the full set of Jason's spacers and I'm uneasy about the stability of a shim stack that high. I already owned four sets of the cf shims and I STILL invested in Jason's solid spacers. The only thing I don't like is that I have to completely remove the mount screws to change them which is a REAL pita if you use a Calandra front brace.

What I'm now trying is using a single 1.5mm FibreLyte shim under one of Jason's spacers to start the race day at my ride height (I usually start at 4mm and let it go down to 3.5 before "jacking it up". As I have to maintain ride height I can progressively change down to the 1mm and then the .5mm shim. If needed I can then go to a .010" (.25mm) Calandra shim before I need to swap to a smaller BMI spacer and start the process again. That should get me through a typical race day without having to change out the aluminum spacer.
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Old 11-14-2007, 05:50 AM   #2830
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Yes, I know exactly what you mean, I hate removing the hole screw.. i think after a few dozen times, teh threas in teh arm will get weak over a period of time.

where can u get them fyberlight shims?

Right now, i am using teflon 1mm shims from the hardware store
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Old 11-14-2007, 06:00 AM   #2831
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really, i would rather take the whole screw out and replace a set of Jason's shims then use the fiberlyte or any derivative. I don't like the fact that there is no support for the arm on the inside of the arm. Any force from the out side even brushing a board will fold the arms. The crc brace helps, but it does not firm up the front arms. all the crc brace does is prevent the front arms from folding under side load, they still flex. with a set of jason's shim set, the arms are very stable. I have a full set coming. and will probably have 4 sets of fiberlyte on the for sale forum.
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Old 11-14-2007, 06:13 AM   #2832
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Originally Posted by theisgroup View Post
really, i would rather take the whole screw out and replace a set of Jason's shims then use the fiberlyte or any derivative. I don't like the fact that there is no support for the arm on the inside of the arm. Any force from the out side even brushing a board will fold the arms.
This really is an inaccurate statement. I'm a fan of Jason's spacers for the reason mentioned above...I'm concerned about a huge stack of individual shims. As far as "support" though, and I'd bet Jason would agree, there IS support to the inside. The sides of the shims go clear to the back of the arm. There isn't anything directly inboard from the screw but there very definitely IS support under the inboard side of the arms. You are not "folding" the arms or getting any other measureable deflection because of that slot. You are BENDING the arms before you're deflecting them by "rocking" at the screws like you describe.

LMK when you part with your FibreLyte shims...I'm sure I can find homes for them here as I'll bet most here will end up following the practice I outlined above. Just keeps it simpler/faster on race day with no performance penalty.

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Yes, I know exactly what you mean, I hate removing the hole screw.. i think after a few dozen times, teh threas in teh arm will get weak over a period of time.
You really shouldn't be damaging the threads in the arms. Something that I've always done that is, to my view, CRITICAL with the new IRS arms is to use a 8-32 tap to thread them. These arms have a built-in stress riser where they are relieved to accept the upper arm mounts, and this point is also where there's VERY little "meat. I've seen these arms when screws have been used to "force" the threads and you can see where the plastic along that thin point has turned white. The first time I saw this I was sure it was a crack. Not quite, but you can BET that's where that arm would fail. Threading with the tap eliminates that concern PLUS the screws go in easily by finger so you're not wearing on the arms, your wrists, etc when you mount/dismount those lower arms.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BSchorr View Post
where can u get them fyberlight shims?
Direct from the mfr. The killer is the postage charge...you really need to spread it over a bunch of sets to make them reasonable. Plus they give (gave) a bit of a price break for over 10-12 sets. The dollar is substantially weaker now against the Euro than it was when I ordered in ours over a year ago so the price will be even higher now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BSchorr View Post
Right now, i am using teflon 1mm shims from the hardware store
Watch your tweak with the teflon...my concern would be that a lot of materials like that are fairly easy to compress. That is not a good characteristic for a shim.

I think the best solution for you, Ben, would be to pony up for a set of Jason's spacers and a set of CRC shims. Then you can have a stable base for your front arms, nearly infinite adjustability with .25mm steps possible, and you would only have to change spacers between race days. Yeah it's $70, but nobody said racin' at the pointy-end was cheap.
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Last edited by Scottrik; 11-14-2007 at 06:29 AM.
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Old 11-14-2007, 06:27 AM   #2833
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The main reason i went with the style of arm shim i did is for support of the screw and lack of stacking shims. What happens with it is that being the arm is spaced off the chassis up to 5 or 6mm, that area is not supported and is suspended in air. The screw can bend easier this way with a side hit and it is very hard to pinpoint without taking the screw out. This can cause major handling issues.

Stacking shims can run into a problem because unless there is no dirt or debris on the shims and they are dead flat, The arms can sit crooked and give you alot of problems. I am just not comfortable stacking relatively thin shims like this. 2 shims at max is all i would want if i had to.
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Old 11-14-2007, 06:28 AM   #2834
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Old 11-14-2007, 06:29 AM   #2835
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