BMI's DB12R
#1681
Tech Fanatic
Can I get some information of centre springs and shock oils, please?
If I switch to blue (softer than gold) spring, do I drop to 30wt oil? And, if I try the red (harder than gold) spring, do I use 40wt? When would I switch centre springs, and what do they do for handling?
Oils - do you switch from 35wt oil when using a gold spring? If so, what is the effect? If I ran 30wt oil instead of 35wt, what would happen?
Hope someone who's tried it all can let me know. Thanks in advance.
If I switch to blue (softer than gold) spring, do I drop to 30wt oil? And, if I try the red (harder than gold) spring, do I use 40wt? When would I switch centre springs, and what do they do for handling?
Oils - do you switch from 35wt oil when using a gold spring? If so, what is the effect? If I ran 30wt oil instead of 35wt, what would happen?
Hope someone who's tried it all can let me know. Thanks in advance.
#1683
from the sounds of it i might want a Db10R
i cant wait to run my DB12R again..
i cant wait to run my DB12R again..
#1684
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
Can I get some information of centre springs and shock oils, please?
If I switch to blue (softer than gold) spring, do I drop to 30wt oil? And, if I try the red (harder than gold) spring, do I use 40wt? When would I switch centre springs, and what do they do for handling?
Oils - do you switch from 35wt oil when using a gold spring? If so, what is the effect? If I ran 30wt oil instead of 35wt, what would happen?
Hope someone who's tried it all can let me know. Thanks in advance.
If I switch to blue (softer than gold) spring, do I drop to 30wt oil? And, if I try the red (harder than gold) spring, do I use 40wt? When would I switch centre springs, and what do they do for handling?
Oils - do you switch from 35wt oil when using a gold spring? If so, what is the effect? If I ran 30wt oil instead of 35wt, what would happen?
Hope someone who's tried it all can let me know. Thanks in advance.
#1685
Tech Fanatic
Thanks Adrian.
#1687
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Ran my DB12R for the first time today. It seemed I was plague with one problem after another although not with the car itself. First heat the car had a lot a steering. Then about 15 laps in it had very poor steering but still drivable. 5 laps later, my batteries died. I figured it was a bad pack so I put it aside. I pulled the car off and foundthe centre shock had blown the inside out and had no oil in it ( My IRS shock won't assemble so I borrowed an AE micro shock for the day). Next heat my batteries unsoldered. Same with the next heat (both at 20 laps in). Final qualifier and in my frustration I had charged and installed the pack that had dumped on me in the first qualifier. 20 laps later, my batteries dump. At this point I'm obviously qualfied last. No big deal. Today is mostly a testing day for wednesday night which is the main 12th night.
Anyway, the main comes around and I'm doing ok. I'm on a 43 laps pace which is what I had set for myself so I'm pretty happy and the car is driving amazing apart from being a little slow due to being undergeared. 32 laps in, my batteries dump on me.
All in all a pretty average day of racing. The car was amazing though. My fastest lap was about .4 off TQ's fastest lap and I mostly attribute that to a slow motor.
Anyway, the main comes around and I'm doing ok. I'm on a 43 laps pace which is what I had set for myself so I'm pretty happy and the car is driving amazing apart from being a little slow due to being undergeared. 32 laps in, my batteries dump on me.
All in all a pretty average day of racing. The car was amazing though. My fastest lap was about .4 off TQ's fastest lap and I mostly attribute that to a slow motor.
#1688
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
The best way i have found to build the shock is like this:
Fill the body to the middle of the threads.
Insert the piston and let is sink all the way to the bottom of the body as far as it can go,
put the foam,spacer,and O ring in and slowly push them in with a small allen wrench until they seat.
now you want to remove all the oil from the top area of the O ring with a Q tip or paper towel and make sure you get all the oil from the O ring.
Now with the piston still at the bottom of the body, slowly screw the cap on until it is tight. Every time the piston starts to rebound, Stop and slowly push it back in. Once the cap is just about tight is when you want the piston to start to rebound. Fully tighten and then you can pull the shock shaft out.
This is the way i always build my shock and it eliminates all of the air and eliminates most of the rebound. I want about 1/4 inch of rebound and that is it. There will be no lock up anywhere in the travel.
Fill the body to the middle of the threads.
Insert the piston and let is sink all the way to the bottom of the body as far as it can go,
put the foam,spacer,and O ring in and slowly push them in with a small allen wrench until they seat.
now you want to remove all the oil from the top area of the O ring with a Q tip or paper towel and make sure you get all the oil from the O ring.
Now with the piston still at the bottom of the body, slowly screw the cap on until it is tight. Every time the piston starts to rebound, Stop and slowly push it back in. Once the cap is just about tight is when you want the piston to start to rebound. Fully tighten and then you can pull the shock shaft out.
This is the way i always build my shock and it eliminates all of the air and eliminates most of the rebound. I want about 1/4 inch of rebound and that is it. There will be no lock up anywhere in the travel.
#1689
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
My shock was built right. It just blew that little star shaped retainer out of the end. Actually it did it twice but the second time was about 5 minutes before the second heat. I just grabbed another micro shock I had floating around but had no idea what oil was in it. I knew it was thinner than 30 weight but I didn't have enough time to change the oil. With that shock the car felt like it had less steering. For the next qualifier I rebuilt the second shock and it was good for the rest of the day.
#1692
One more day
#1695
Jason --- ran the car today with a 10.5 - what a blast! I didn't get any practice because I didn't finish getting the car ready until 5 minutes before the 1st qualifier. However, the car is really really good. It is very consistent and each run I got faster after making some adjustments each round. The corner speed is really impressive and it is really easy to drive (no butt clenching when trying to drive it faster). It definitely brings the two worlds of T-bar and link cars together.
The traction at CEFX was very high and I had some traction rolling issues so that made me a bit tentative to push it very hard. However, I am pretty sure most of that is because I was running my tires too big. I am pretty sure I could have dropped at least a couple more 1/10ths if it wasn't for that.
Anyways, all I need is some more practice/track time to get the car adjusted for my driving style and then it will be time to strap in the 5.5.
btw: I ended up taking the IRS castor blocks off after the 1st qualifier and went to the stock 10 deg castor blocks.
Great car guys!
1armed1 - cool! Maybe I'll head out there. CEFX is going to be low with turn-out anyways since a lot of folks will be at the IIC.
-Rich
The traction at CEFX was very high and I had some traction rolling issues so that made me a bit tentative to push it very hard. However, I am pretty sure most of that is because I was running my tires too big. I am pretty sure I could have dropped at least a couple more 1/10ths if it wasn't for that.
Anyways, all I need is some more practice/track time to get the car adjusted for my driving style and then it will be time to strap in the 5.5.
btw: I ended up taking the IRS castor blocks off after the 1st qualifier and went to the stock 10 deg castor blocks.
Great car guys!
1armed1 - cool! Maybe I'll head out there. CEFX is going to be low with turn-out anyways since a lot of folks will be at the IIC.
-Rich