Skitee

Yes that won't be a problem

Skitee

Have you changed the wheel axles too? if you have changed to the TB-03/TRF416 wheel axles then you need to change your steering knuckles and rear uprights to the TB-03/TRF416 version as well because they use a different size bearing, I think the original IFS uses 9x5x3 bearings in the steering knuckles but the IFS-R/TB-03/TRF416 uses 10x5x4 bearings so a longer wheel axle was needed.

fritzzz

Hi,

I have a TA-05 IFS EBBRO BTEC Maziora 350R which I would like to fit a Novak Havoc Pro Brushless System into. The whole thing is pre-wired which is going to create some housekeeping issues under the body but I had a question about locating the ESC and capacitor.

Does anyone have any photos of a Novak Havoc Pro Brushless System installed in their car?

It looks like the ESC will fit between the motor and rear axle as indicated in the instructions but it is a very tight fit and it looks like there are three ways I could orientate it.

IMG_0497
I will need to run the sensor and receiver wire very close to the motor itself as per the attached photo.

IMG_0499
Motor wires to the outside of the car, quite neat routing of battery cables etc. Could probably tuck capacitor up on rear suspension somewhere

IMG_0502
Motor wires to the inside of the car right beside the drive belt, will create some problems stopping cables rubbing on the belt...

497 or 499 look like the best options to me but this is the first time I have installed a brushless system.

I don't want to cut any cables as the system will get transferred from car to car over time.

Any comments much appreciated, thanks!

Mr LowDown

iTrader: (21)

thanks a lot..

Fat Corgi

Hey guys. Quick question. I now have a 10.5 Ballistic in my TA05 and am noticing that when I get to about 50% throttle, the car starts pulling to the left. It's not a huge amount, but when the car reaches max speeds, I have to slightly compensate for the drifting. What would cause this? Any hints would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

Check you tires real closely and make sure they are glued well

Fat Corgi

Just checked them, the tyres are all well-adhered to the wheels. Any other suggestions?

brrrrm

During accelleration your front wheels toe-in. You can check this by firmly holding the front end down and then trying to rotate the front spool forward. You will see that the front wheels as well as the front uprights move. If the amount of movement between the right and left side is not equal then your car will pull in the direction where there is least movement.

The opposite happens when you brake hard. The wheels will toe-out and the uprights will move back and the car will pull in the direction with the most movement.

So check for equal play in your front steering set up.

fritzzz

What about these - any ideas? Thanks

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

I'd see what maximum length your other car(s) need and shorten those wires! First and second pics look fine and plug to receiver wire should go through the motor guard anyways. When I had my GTB in that car, I zip tied the capacitor to the rear brace. If I had to choose though, I'd probably do #2. HTH

fritzzz

Thanks a lot - is it easier / better to solder them at the motor end or ESC end?

I've looked at it a couple more times and have reached the same conclusion that they need to be shortened.

Cheers

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

motor end

fritzzz

Thanks - that's what I thought but it's always nice to check!

Cheers

Andysan

I'm in a similar scenario as I run a TA05 IFS with gear that goes in and out of my Associated T3. First of all if you're OK with the soldering I would cut the wires down a bit, they're surely longer than you would need foor any other model but those are just my thoughts.

Regarding ESC layout, I personally would rule out option 2 with the solder tabs facing the outside of the chassis - if you took a particularly hard hit these would likely break which is not cool.

I think option 1 is your best bet as your leads are away from the belt. What I would also recommend are a few tips I use; first, rotate the motor can counter-clockwise so that the solder tabs are at 9 o'clock; this is a little dangerous as they could get hit in a crash but they could still get hit at 12 o'clock anyway. This means the distance between your motor tabs and your ESC is longer so your leads dont look so obviously overly long. You could buy a short sensor lead for a few dollars also.

Also, the rear chassis brace is a great spot for mounting your capacitor - if you look closely it has a little slot in it that you can fit a couple of tie wraps through. Place your capacitor onto of the brace and loop the tie wraps through the brace - keeps it secure, out of the way of moving parts and looks hella cool.







Now I have a few IFS questions of my own - I recently bought a TA05-R and now have an IFS that has been gifted to me from a fellow racer. I have reset the IFS to the completely stock setup and have noticed that the rear suspension arms on the IFS are on backwards. I know that this offers "more suspension options" according to the product blurb but what are the advantages and disadvantages in detail please? Put simply, can anyone advise which way around to run the arms and which mounting holes to use on the arms and tower for a track such as this one please (running yellow springs all round)?

+ YouTube Video

Thanks in advance!

fritzzz

Thanks, I ended up having to go with Option 2 as I also need to be able to see the LEDs on the ESC for various programming options etc. It's all come up pretty well but getting the cap to the brace is a bit tricky so I've wired it all in together for the moment and will look at it again on the weekend.