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Old 06-26-2009, 05:48 AM   #976
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Anyone have problem with KO Propo servo? I am using 2501 in particular. It seems it is a bit wider than other servos.

I previously used a standard servo that came with Sanwa MX-A Tx and had no problem fitting it in. But with 2501, the long screw that goes from the bottom up of the tub had to kind of lean to the outer side of the tub.

The servo saver also touched the tub so I had to use a filer and made a "dip" (not sure the right word for this) so it could make a turn all the way to the left with no problem. Is this legal for TCS anyway?

Appreciate your advice. Thanks.
Did you trim off one of the mounting ears as in instructions?

I use a Futaba 9551, and I cut down the kit's servo mounts so the servo could be moved back enough to mount the steering link on the front of servo saver.

Yes you can cut tub for clearance because it's in the instructions too. Bring the instructions with you just in case to prove it.
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Old 06-26-2009, 07:47 PM   #977
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Did you trim off one of the mounting ears as in instructions?

I use a Futaba 9551, and I cut down the kit's servo mounts so the servo could be moved back enough to mount the steering link on the front of servo saver.

Yes you can cut tub for clearance because it's in the instructions too. Bring the instructions with you just in case to prove it.
Yes I trimmed off one of the mouting ears. I think this has to be done or the servo just won't fit in. But it still didn't fit in nicely like the Sanwa servo. It is kind of 1mm longer than the Sanwa one. Also the servo rotating gear seems a bit further to the left by a few millimeters, hence the need to trim the tub for clearance.

You are cutting down the servo mount so it becomes shorter, right? I would consider doing this. If the servo moves back further, I may not need to trim the tub anymore in the future because the tub gets wider further back.

But where exactly in the instructions does it say the tub can be cut for clearance? I couldn't find it.

But I am really interested to see if anyone with KO Propo servo having the same problem. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 06-27-2009, 12:28 AM   #978
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KO servo fits perfiectly in my cars.
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Old 06-27-2009, 10:15 AM   #979
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KO servo fits perfiectly in my cars.
What model of KO Propo servo are you using?
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Old 07-12-2009, 11:52 PM   #980
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Any performance difference if I change my stock normal chassis and suspension arms to lightweight carbon composite chassis and short reversible arms? What other things should I buy along if I wanted to use the short reversible arms? Suspension block/bridges? CVD length? Uprights?

Thanks!
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Old 07-14-2009, 09:51 PM   #981
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Any performance difference if I change my stock normal chassis and suspension arms to lightweight carbon composite chassis and short reversible arms? What other things should I buy along if I wanted to use the short reversible arms? Suspension block/bridges? CVD length? Uprights?

Thanks!
Bump.

Anyone?
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:28 AM   #982
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Any performance difference if I change my stock normal chassis and suspension arms to lightweight carbon composite chassis and short reversible arms? What other things should I buy along if I wanted to use the short reversible arms? Suspension block/bridges? CVD length? Uprights?

Thanks!
yes there will be a huge performance difference. the carbon tub is lighter and stiffer. short reversible arms will also affect handling. your car will behave differently.
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:47 AM   #983
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yes there will be a huge performance difference. the carbon tub is lighter and stiffer. short reversible arms will also affect handling. your car will behave differently.
So do I need to change the suspension block/bridge? I m using 415 blocks at the moment. Also what length of CVD should I use?
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:05 AM   #984
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Any performance difference if I change my stock normal chassis and suspension arms to lightweight carbon composite chassis and short reversible arms? What other things should I buy along if I wanted to use the short reversible arms? Suspension block/bridges? CVD length? Uprights?

Thanks!
This article is more about how to convert to IFS but it gives the swing axle part numbers towards the end of article

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=384
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Old 07-15-2009, 05:12 PM   #985
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I have asked this before but havent got a good answer yet

what is the benefit in handling of having the IFS compared to the standard stand up shocks in the front? (exept that i can run lower bodies)

i bought a IFS-R but has only driven it with stand up shocks because that is what i have been doing all these years, but havent bothered to try the ifs, but now i`m a little corious about it

also, what rate does the tamiya #500 shockoil compare to? From what i understand it should be something like associated 40wt?
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Old 07-16-2009, 12:08 PM   #986
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I know that with the IFS setup, adding spacers on the rocker arms gives the effect of moving the top shock position outwards.

is there something to do so the opposite will happen?
what i'd like to do is (visualizing the stock TA05) lay the front shocks inwards to achieve more traction.
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Old 07-17-2009, 07:07 AM   #987
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need help!

im planning to buy an IFS or the TA05 ver 2.?

which is better?

is the TA05 capable to run competitively in 13.5T class. Ill be racing on a parking lot.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-17-2009, 07:16 AM   #988
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Go with the Ver.II it has a narrower tub and changed battery position and it comes standard with the IFS-R / 416 Pulleys, short reversible suspension arms and the TB-03 / 416 front and rear uprights.
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Old 07-17-2009, 07:20 AM   #989
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i notice that the ver II is pure stock, besides the shocks which part/s do i have or need to change to make the car competitive?
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Old 07-17-2009, 07:30 AM   #990
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Yes it is very stock but the older IFS kits were exactly the same only the R version had some bling in it.

You probably only need these hopups

TRF shocks
Rear carbon shock tower
Aluminium rocker arms
Aluminium steering arms
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