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Old 06-02-2009, 09:30 PM   #946
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Originally Posted by reenmachine View Post
How do you define being at "full lock" if the flat on the front knuckle doesn't touch the C hub?

That's what "full lock" is...when the flat on the knuckle (designed for this purpose) rests against the C hub. On my TA05s (both std. and IFS) these stops make contact -- I had to turn my EPAs down to the point where they just make contact vs. really pushing hard. You don't need to do any "steering plate mod" to get there...
Like I said, the ball stud on the steering plate is limiting the steering angle, therefore I can see my knuckle has around 3-4mm gap to the C hub. I ll try to post some pics of it so everybody can have a look and understand it, as explaining it in words is something I m not good at...afterall English is not my mothertoungue.
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:32 PM   #947
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Not to be a jerk or anything, but have you actually run the car yet?
Sounds like you're making alot of assumptions based on appearances.
Most of the guys that I run with including myself that have the IFS report having plenty of steering. We run with the 416 and are plenty competitive.
If you want more steering, you could always go to the 2 degree c hubs vs the 4 degree which I believe are standard. From there you could adjust the amount of force on the rockers through spacers. The forward holes on the steering knuckles make the car pretty aggressive. Just my $.02
Yes I have driven it 4 times now on my local track on foam tyres....thanks for your set up advice, i ll try that soon...
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:32 PM   #948
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check your steering trim on your transmitter.
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:54 PM   #949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Like I said, the ball stud on the steering plate is limiting the steering angle, therefore I can see my knuckle has around 3-4mm gap to the C hub. I ll try to post some pics of it so everybody can have a look and understand it, as explaining it in words is something I m not good at...afterall English is not my mothertoungue.
Please do post a pic because I just can't see how this could be happening. How is the ball stud limiting the steering angle? Is it hitting something? It shouldn't come anywhere close to hitting anything.


BTW, mother tongue or not, your written English is better than 95% of the native speakers on here.
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Old 06-03-2009, 04:35 AM   #950
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try checking if you have the steering plate inverted....
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Old 06-03-2009, 07:41 AM   #951
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Originally Posted by Minami View Post
try checking if you have the steering plate inverted....
That would certainly do it. It's probably installed 180* around...

I've even run mine this way for more ackerman, and it worked fine. Penguin tells you to install the steering bridge this way too. Still had to dial down the dual-rate for our small parking lot track...
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Old 06-03-2009, 11:10 AM   #952
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I was hoping to grab a TA05 IFS-R to race this summer but it seems to be discontinued (par Tamiyausa's website)? Is Tamiya updating it with the newer v2 chassis?
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Old 06-03-2009, 02:18 PM   #953
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Tamiya is coming out with a TA05 Ver. II chassis this summer. It will be a TA05-IFS chassis with short suspension arms, a revised chassis, TA05MS style motor mount and larger IFS-R style pulleys: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58435
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Old 06-04-2009, 01:21 PM   #954
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Questions?? Static vs ESC

Has anybody ever had the static problem take out a ESC? On a stock TA05-IFS I've burnt out 5 tazers and 1 FXR. Taken it to the LHS they think every thing looks right. The car will run for about 1/2 a battery charge then white smoke, the fxr just stoped, no smoke. I've tried different batteries, from 15k nicads to 3300 nmih. Also have run both digital and standard servos, thought the BEC of the tazer couldn't handle the dig servo. The car has only been run on the street, never touched water.
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Old 06-04-2009, 01:59 PM   #955
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The plastic chassis builds up a lot of static electricity, because It isn't grounded. So, it'll spark up now and them. Same thing with my TC4, but I've never had an electrical problem with either of my cars.
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:23 PM   #956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotk View Post
Has anybody ever had the static problem take out a ESC? On a stock TA05-IFS I've burnt out 5 tazers and 1 FXR. Taken it to the LHS they think every thing looks right. The car will run for about 1/2 a battery charge then white smoke, the fxr just stoped, no smoke. I've tried different batteries, from 15k nicads to 3300 nmih. Also have run both digital and standard servos, thought the BEC of the tazer couldn't handle the dig servo. The car has only been run on the street, never touched water.
I lost a couple of servos before I figured out what was up, but never a speedo. I made a groundstrap that goes from the motor mount to the rear bulkhead and havent had a problem since
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Old 06-05-2009, 12:33 AM   #957
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BP Shadow, Is your chassis a R-chassis or std?

I made some ground straps, one each for the front and rear diffs to the motor mount. Ran 2 batteries through an old tekin 410k, I'm not sure if that means anything or not?
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Old 06-05-2009, 05:18 AM   #958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotk View Post
BP Shadow, Is your chassis a R-chassis or std?

I made some ground straps, one each for the front and rear diffs to the motor mount. Ran 2 batteries through an old tekin 410k, I'm not sure if that means anything or not?
I am running the stock plastic tub. Supposedly switching to the carbon tub solves the problem, but I like the amount of compliance in the stock tub. You only really need to run 1 ground strap. A Tekin 410 k, wow, I have one of those, truly old school, but way ahead of its time
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Old 06-08-2009, 07:46 PM   #959
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Raced my new 05IFS on the weekend, box settings with the included silvercan. Only change was 24 compound tyres, came 3rd in stock class against 17.5t brushless cars with lipos Had heaps of steering, and it carried a fair amount of corner speed, which helped me overtake in the corners
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:27 PM   #960
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Who got the best set up for GT2 out door medium traction surface?
what hop up do i needs ? thanks
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