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Old 06-01-2009, 07:46 PM   #931
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What pinion would be suitable for a Team Br00d Co27 Pro Stock in a box-fresh TA05IFS with the 70 tooth spur on a tightist track?
With the CO27 motors we all run high 7's for a final drive on a very small parking lot track. With the 04mod gears, it's a 30/29T pinion and a 105T spur. Just look inside your manual to find what pinion you need in the 7.8 range and adjust from there.

I don't like the motor over 140* at the comm after a race (120-130 is better), so gear up or down depending. You definitely want to be topped out a bit before the braking point of the longest straight.

I just changed to cheap Orion 2400mah lipo, and it really brought my team-express CO27 to life. More power than I can handle right now...
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Old 06-01-2009, 08:14 PM   #932
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gearcharts.com say 20t for that range (7.88). Kit came with a 22t. That gives a 7.16 FDR. Track is here :- *edit* picking up a set od 20 and 21t pinions this arvo
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TA05 IFS-img_9218-20layout-2010may2009.jpg  

Last edited by xsnoizta05; 06-01-2009 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 06-02-2009, 01:07 AM   #933
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I ve checked those already...everything was normal, no binding...The limiting steering angle problem I think is due to the ball stud on the plate touches the steering arm system. I think I can grind the arm a bit to make a slot for the ball stud...so in theory I will get more angle...has anybody done this yet?

Also what is your toe setting at the font and rear? BTW I think I m going to get some aluminum suspension bridge for the front and rear (either Tamiya or 3racing) so which one will get me 2deg toe in at the rear?

What other option parts do I need to get?

Thanks.
you could try that but the stock steering angle seems fine for me.

the stock suspension block:
Front: 1A/1A = 0deg inboard toe
Rear: 1A/1A = 0deg inboard toe-in + 1deg stock rear upright = total 1deg toe-in
To get 2deg toe-in at rear you should use 1deg inboard toe-in, you could try 1A(bridge style)/1C. 94eg! already explained how to measure it.
this link might help you:
http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=30

for the options you would need universal shaft, front spool/oneway, stabilizer set, carbon damper stay, and of course TRF shock.
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Old 06-02-2009, 01:43 AM   #934
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you could try that but the stock steering angle seems fine for me.

the stock suspension block:
Front: 1A/1A = 0deg inboard toe
Rear: 1A/1A = 0deg inboard toe-in + 1deg stock rear upright = total 1deg toe-in
To get 2deg toe-in at rear you should use 1deg inboard toe-in, you could try 1A(bridge style)/1C. 94eg! already explained how to measure it.
this link might help you:
http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=30

for the options you would need universal shaft, front spool/oneway, stabilizer set, carbon damper stay, and of course TRF shock.
Thanks for the advice...I ve just done the steering arm system mod that I mention on the last page. I ll be trying it out today hopefully it will work. The Alum suspension bridge is actually the one for TRF415 right? I didn't know the stock rear uprights do have toe built in it...no wonder my rear toe looks a little bit like toe out...maybe I put the right side to the left, vice versa...I ll check it again...
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Old 06-02-2009, 06:57 AM   #935
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Thanks for the advice...I ve just done the steering arm system mod that I mention on the last page. I ll be trying it out today hopefully it will work.
I've had several TA05s and have never had a problem getting full throw out of the steering. As a matter of fact, after assembly I always turn my steering endpoints down so the knuckles rest against the stops without pushing them too hard. You don't have to go modifying parts to get a TA05's wheels to turn all the way. I'd highly suggest looking at your assembly and seeing if there's an error there. Same goes for the rear toe -- if you put it together right you should have a couple degrees of rear toe in right out of the box.
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Old 06-02-2009, 08:47 AM   #936
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Theres actually no problem with the steering throw. I have set the EPA on my radio with full lock L-R. For me, I just feel that I need more steering. Comparing with my 416WE which has more steering angle than my IFS, I can see the front knuckle almost, if not, can touch the C hub when in full steering lock, my IFS on the other hand has lots of gap between the knuckle and the C hub when its in full steering lock. Thats why I decided to do the steering plate mod...to get more steering angle....Maybe this is just for me...

To update the situation...the steering mod did work...now I have more steering to my liking...I don't know how much angle did i gain coz I haven't put it on my set up station....anyhow I m really happy with my IFS now...
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Old 06-02-2009, 08:48 AM   #937
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The Alum suspension bridge is actually the one for TRF415 right?
Correct...

The 416 blocks can also be flipped over and sat on 3mm spacers for the same effect, but that won't be quite as strong. The only "Bridge" blocks availabel are 1A and 1D. All this should rear toe setting stuff should be covered in your manual...

BTW: you definitely don't want rear toe-out!!!
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Old 06-02-2009, 08:50 AM   #938
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Originally Posted by xsnoizta05 View Post
gearcharts.com say 20t for that range (7.88). Kit came with a 22t. That gives a 7.16 FDR. Track is here :- *edit* picking up a set od 20 and 21t pinions this arvo
With that track picutred, I might stick with the 22T pinon. It looks a bit bigger than my track. If you don't have a temp gun, just keep an eye on your brushes. If they start getting any blueish discoloration, install new ones and gear down a 2 teeth...
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:02 AM   #939
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I didn't know the stock rear uprights do have toe built in it...no wonder my rear toe looks a little bit like toe out...maybe I put the right side to the left, vice versa...I ll check it again...
i also did the same mistake when building it. there is 1L or 1R mark on the rear upright indicate the correct side.
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:27 AM   #940
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Correct...

The 416 blocks can also be flipped over and sat on 3mm spacers for the same effect, but that won't be quite as strong. The only "Bridge" blocks availabel are 1A and 1D. All this should rear toe setting stuff should be covered in your manual...

BTW: you definitely don't want rear toe-out!!!
Thanks again 94eg, do you know which 3racing alum block is equivalent to the Tamiya block? I would prefer Tamiya stuff actually but I can't get it locally, 3racing blocks however are available.
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:29 AM   #941
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i also did the same mistake when building it. there is 1L or 1R mark on the rear upright indicate the correct side.
Yes...I just noticed the marks too....
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Old 06-02-2009, 04:10 PM   #942
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Thanks again 94eg, do you know which 3racing alum block is equivalent to the Tamiya block? I would prefer Tamiya stuff actually but I can't get it locally, 3racing blocks however are available.

These will all work on your car:

http://www.3racing.hk/products_list....carkits_key=80

You need 415-01/B1A and 415-01/1C to get 2* toe-in. Personally I would get 1D or 1E as well so you can also try 2.5 or 3* toe as options. That is very typical...
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Old 06-02-2009, 04:52 PM   #943
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What spare parts should I carry for racing? Knuckles, arms, suspension towers? Any roughly how many of each. What normally breaks on the IFS?
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Old 06-02-2009, 06:46 PM   #944
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Theres actually no problem with the steering throw. I have set the EPA on my radio with full lock L-R. For me, I just feel that I need more steering. Comparing with my 416WE which has more steering angle than my IFS, I can see the front knuckle almost, if not, can touch the C hub when in full steering lock, my IFS on the other hand has lots of gap between the knuckle and the C hub when its in full steering lock. Thats why I decided to do the steering plate mod...to get more steering angle....Maybe this is just for me...

To update the situation...the steering mod did work...now I have more steering to my liking...I don't know how much angle did i gain coz I haven't put it on my set up station....anyhow I m really happy with my IFS now...
How do you define being at "full lock" if the flat on the front knuckle doesn't touch the C hub?

That's what "full lock" is...when the flat on the knuckle (designed for this purpose) rests against the C hub. On my TA05s (both std. and IFS) these stops make contact -- I had to turn my EPAs down to the point where they just make contact vs. really pushing hard. You don't need to do any "steering plate mod" to get there...
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Old 06-02-2009, 08:04 PM   #945
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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Theres actually no problem with the steering throw. I have set the EPA on my radio with full lock L-R. For me, I just feel that I need more steering. Comparing with my 416WE which has more steering angle than my IFS, I can see the front knuckle almost, if not, can touch the C hub when in full steering lock, my IFS on the other hand has lots of gap between the knuckle and the C hub when its in full steering lock. Thats why I decided to do the steering plate mod...to get more steering angle....Maybe this is just for me...

To update the situation...the steering mod did work...now I have more steering to my liking...I don't know how much angle did i gain coz I haven't put it on my set up station....anyhow I m really happy with my IFS now...
Not to be a jerk or anything, but have you actually run the car yet?
Sounds like you're making alot of assumptions based on appearances.
Most of the guys that I run with including myself that have the IFS report having plenty of steering. We run with the 416 and are plenty competitive.
If you want more steering, you could always go to the 2 degree c hubs vs the 4 degree which I believe are standard. From there you could adjust the amount of force on the rockers through spacers. The forward holes on the steering knuckles make the car pretty aggressive. Just my $.02
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