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Old 05-10-2009, 05:44 AM   #886
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Just got the IFS-R. Is there a One-way and Spool for it? Also, what diff rings does it use. It's all different then my regular TA05.
yep there is, but you have to use durga pulley and the rest are for regular TA05.
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:05 AM   #887
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Just got the IFS-R. Is there a One-way and Spool for it? Also, what diff rings does it use. It's all different then my regular TA05.
I'm using the TA05 spool with the 37t pulley. Diff rings are bigger and aren't "D" shaped.
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Old 05-13-2009, 10:47 AM   #888
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I need some help about TA05-IFS. I want to get universal shaft, but not sure which one. There are 2 choices, 46mm and 48mm. I am using the stock reversible suspensions. Can anyone advise? Thank you tons!
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Old 05-13-2009, 10:54 AM   #889
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For TA05's with the longer reversible arms and 950 wheel bearing hubs, use the 48mm shafts. These parts are all standard equipment on the older TA05-R & work perfect on the standard IFS. It even talks about exactly which universal shafts to get towards the back of the IFS manual...

The IFS-R uses short reversible arms, 1050 bearing hubs and 46mm driveshafts...
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:28 PM   #890
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Thanks for the advice. The manual indeed asks to use 48mm. But when I did research, I got confused. I am running all stock parts. So I guess I will get the 48mm shaft for now

How about the carbon reinforced suspension arms? I have plan to change to them, but still not sure when. Do they have the same length as the stock suspension arms? Or do I have to switch to 46mm shaft?

Thanks again for the advice.
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:40 PM   #891
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Originally Posted by xniperliams View Post
Thanks for the advice. The manual indeed asks to use 48mm. But when I did research, I got confused. I am running all stock parts. So I guess I will get the 48mm shaft for now

How about the carbon reinforced suspension arms? I have plan to change to them, but still not sure when. Do they have the same length as the stock suspension arms? Or do I have to switch to 46mm shaft?

Thanks again for the advice.
There are two versions of the carbon arms. If you get the original long-arms (TB Evo IV version), they will be exactly the same as the ones you already have.

If you want to switch the newer short carbon arms, you will need wider suspension blocks anyways, so you will still be able to keep those 48mm driveshafts.

It's only when you try to switch the later uprights with the larger 1050 bearings and wider axles, will you will need the shorter 46mm driveshafts.
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Old 05-15-2009, 01:02 AM   #892
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The later uprights with bigger bearings and 46mm shaft, are they plain plastic or carbon reinforced? Or do they come in both types?

Thanks again.
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Old 05-15-2009, 08:45 AM   #893
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The later uprights with bigger bearings and 46mm shaft, are they plain plastic or carbon reinforced? Or do they come in both types?

Thanks again.
The ones from the TRF cars are carbon, and the ones from the TB03 are plastic I think. The standard ifs cars already have the later model C-hubs, but still use the older 950 bearing uprights & knuckles.

TB03:
51352 - plastic knuckles (1050 bearings)
51293 - plastic C hubs (4* caster)
51353 - plastic short arms
51354 - plastic rear upright (0* toe & 1050 bearings)

TRF416WE & IFS-R:
51332 - carbon knuckles (1050 bearings)
54031 - carbon C hubs (4* caster)
53928 - carbon short arms
51333 - carbon rear upright (0* toe & 1050 bearings)

They were just saying in the 416 thread that the plastic c-hubs give a little more steering and durability to the front end (with the rest of the parts carbon)...

Last edited by 94eg!; 05-15-2009 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:13 AM   #894
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On a side note: For those of you that are getting sick of replacing 950 bearings, but don't want to buy all the parts required to switch to the 1050 bearing hubs (knuckles, uprights, bearings, king-pins, axles & driveshafts), Give the new Fluorine sealed TRF 950 bearings a try. The teflon keeps the dirt out allowing the bearings to last longer. And since they are sealed, there is no nead to clean & relube them. I've been running them same ones for half a season of parking lot racing in the back on my 415 and they are still smooth as butter. I just added them to the front...

eBay seller RDVTG-Hobbies has the best deals going, and he gets parts to the US in about 5 days after ordering. Amazing seller. And at $5.30 a pair (plus $3 postage for two pairs), they cost only a dollar or two more than the crappy metal sheild ones...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-950-Fluor...item3a483a3140

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Old 05-15-2009, 03:49 PM   #895
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Hi guys, I just picked up an IFS-R car and was looking for a good asphalt RCGT setup. I'm completely new to Tamiya, used to run Shumacher, so I can use some help. Thanks!
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Old 05-15-2009, 05:50 PM   #896
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ta05 ver.2 look at the motor mount, with low profile servo it's seems possible to squeeze futaba receiver between servo and motor..............

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Old 05-15-2009, 06:03 PM   #897
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Originally Posted by DRAG_ON View Post
ta05 ver.2 look at the motor mount, with low profile servo it's seems possible to squeeze futaba receiver between servo and motor..............
You can do that with any TA05.
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Old 05-16-2009, 12:02 AM   #898
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Originally Posted by reenmachine View Post
You can do that with any TA05.
The new TA05 is different. The center shaft is now between the servo & motor. With standard size servo you either stand up the receiver or stick it to the top of the servo...
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Old 05-16-2009, 01:54 AM   #899
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They were just saying in the 416 thread that the plastic c-hubs give a little more steering and durability to the front end (with the rest of the parts carbon)...
Do you think it is because plastic is a little more flexible than carbon that is stiffer?
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Old 05-16-2009, 06:49 AM   #900
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Originally Posted by YnGrsHpr View Post
Hi guys, I just picked up an IFS-R car and was looking for a good asphalt RCGT setup. I'm completely new to Tamiya, used to run Shumacher, so I can use some help. Thanks!
The X-Pattern tires work best in my experience with very little camber. When running my typical -2 to -3 of camber up front they developed the "death groove" pretty quickly. I now run -1 all around and they work and wear much better.

Overall, start with the kit box setup with the aforementioned camber settings and try it out. I found it to be pretty dialed right out of the box.
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