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Old 01-28-2009, 11:57 AM   #721
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Yeah, those are the "red" springs. Tamiya makes a set identical to the one redbones linked to but with all-white springs except for a dot at one end identifying the color. This is so other guys at the track can't tell what setup you're running. The standard sway bar kit is color coded as well, but the IFS-R comes with the "stealth" all-black bars for the same counter-espionage reason.

Also like redbones said, it is common to use a slightly harder spring up front than in the rear. If you find that you have oversteer that is the first thing I'd try. Go to yellows in the front and keep the reds in the rear.

I get many of my Tamiya parts from speedtech (www.speedtechrc.com). They're in the Los Angeles area and are a great shop and strong supporters of the hobby. Stuff they don't carry I order from Hong Kong or Japan.

Here's the spring set you should get (they're out of stock right now but here's the info):

springs at speedtech
Stealth Springs. I like that. I'm very familiar with Speedtech. Back in 2005 on a visit to San Diego (my wife is from SD), I stopped by Speedtech on our way to San Bernadino.

I also bought my IFS-R from them.
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Old 01-28-2009, 12:00 PM   #722
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yes, you need to swap them to the rear of the tower.
thanks!
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Old 01-28-2009, 12:01 PM   #723
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Default Gearing Help

I got my motor/ESC. Novak GTB w/17.5. Where do I begin with gearing? This would be for the GT2 class of TCS. I'm attaching a photo of the track (just before it opened).

Currently, the only spur and pinion I have is the one that came with the kit. Other than that all I have is TT-01 (19t\61t).


Thanks guys!
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Tamiya TA05 IFS-htusafrederick.jpg  
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Old 01-28-2009, 12:26 PM   #724
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Originally Posted by Geppetto View Post
I got my motor/ESC. Novak GTB w/17.5. Where do I begin with gearing? This would be for the GT2 class of TCS. I'm attaching a photo of the track (just before it opened).

Currently, the only spur and pinion I have is the one that came with the kit. Other than that all I have is TT-01 (19t\61t).


Thanks guys!
We start with an FDR of about 3.6 out here, but that may be a bit tall for a tighter track. It's hard to tell from the photo, but maybe start there and adjust according to motor temps. Try not to exceed 165-170F at the end of a race distance.

You'll need a smaller spur and larger pinion than those from the kit. Actually, I don't think the kit came with a pinion...

I run an 87T spur and 49T (FDR 3.63) or 50T (FDR 3.56) pinion. Speedtech has the gears. Those are 64p gears.
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Old 01-28-2009, 04:05 PM   #725
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Those white ones that reenmachine posted are the same exact ones, just white. There is also the limited milky blue ones, which are the same as well. Kinda confusing imo.

I get my stuff from speedtech, and HK. HK stuff can get here in about a week if they ship it out fast. What sucks the most is when you have to order from multiple vendors since one store doesn't have everything you need.

for 17.5, I run about 4.5fdr. Out track is technical so need that bottom end. Go for under 4.0 if you have a long straight. Watch the temp though, I try to keep everything under 170F. pretty much what reenmachine says.

I copied a setting sheet from the TA05/TB03 guide book from Tamiya and works pretty good for me. Satoshi's recommended starting point for the IFS-R. I'll try to post it later on.
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Old 01-28-2009, 04:36 PM   #726
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I copied a setting sheet from the TA05/TB03 guide book from Tamiya and works pretty good for me. Satoshi's recommended starting point for the IFS-R. I'll try to post it later on.
Please do. I'd be interested in seeing that.
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Old 01-28-2009, 05:56 PM   #727
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Your car is almost 100g lighter with that conversion so you need to change everything. You lost the chassis flex from the tub, so you will have to to change the shock settings to compensate. You can also fiddle with the steering setting on your radio to make the car less reactive.
BTW, I'm running foam on rug, my front spring is purple and rear is white, 50wt front, tamiya yellow on rear SHock fluid). Will try Blue springs on the rear this weekend. Will see. TNX guys.
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Old 01-29-2009, 01:34 AM   #728
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Originally Posted by redbones View Post
Those white ones that reenmachine posted are the same exact ones, just white. There is also the limited milky blue ones, which are the same as well. Kinda confusing imo.

I get my stuff from speedtech, and HK. HK stuff can get here in about a week if they ship it out fast. What sucks the most is when you have to order from multiple vendors since one store doesn't have everything you need.

for 17.5, I run about 4.5fdr. Out track is technical so need that bottom end. Go for under 4.0 if you have a long straight. Watch the temp though, I try to keep everything under 170F. pretty much what reenmachine says.

I copied a setting sheet from the TA05/TB03 guide book from Tamiya and works pretty good for me. Satoshi's recommended starting point for the IFS-R. I'll try to post it later on.
me too, im interested to see that setting sheet for my ta05 ifs-r
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Old 01-29-2009, 02:44 PM   #729
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Anybody using a 3racing chassis here noticed that they're chassis is tweaked? I think mine is. I think it has something to do with the Bulkhead since I'm using the stock ones that came with the IFS r. I noticed it when i tightened the screws ( just like tightening wheels on cars) when I lay it on the plexi it was tweaked so I had to loosen the screws and lay it again and there is still minimal tweak but not as noticeable as before. So with guys that have alloy BH do you have this problem? Just on my front BTW>
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Old 01-29-2009, 05:23 PM   #730
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anyone have photos of their chassis with a brushless system (motor and ESC) installed. Preferably, Novak GTB. I'm completely lost on this one. This ESC seems to have wires coming from everywhere, and then there's the huge cap!

This is my first brushless.
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Old 01-29-2009, 05:40 PM   #731
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Originally Posted by Geppetto View Post
anyone have photos of their chassis with a brushless system (motor and ESC) installed. Preferably, Novak GTB. I'm completely lost on this one. This ESC seems to have wires coming from everywhere, and then there's the huge cap!

This is my first brushless.
Not a GTB, but I still had to lay the ESC on its side to fit.

Post number 115:

Inspire us. Show me your BEST, CLEANEST electronics installation pics.
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Old 01-29-2009, 11:10 PM   #732
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I've been running my IFS-R for about a month now and have noticed a bit of understeer (push). It seems most noticable at the end of the straight (regardless of track I run). To get around these sweeping turns I need to back off the throttle significantly. I'm running 40wt oil in the front with blue springs and 30wt in the rear with yellow springs. Camber is set at -1 all around with about 1/2 degree of toe in. Ride height is 4mm in the front and about 4.5 in the back. All blocks are the stock ones that came with the kit. I was originally running both sway bars, then just the rear, now I've removed both. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I've been running TC's for some time, but this IFS is new to me. Thanks.
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Old 01-30-2009, 01:51 AM   #733
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try loosening up your front diff, if you're using a diff up front.
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Old 01-30-2009, 04:08 AM   #734
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Not a GTB, but I still had to lay the ESC on its side to fit.

Post number 115:

Inspire us. Show me your BEST, CLEANEST electronics installation pics.
You certainly got it all in there. Is that the capacitor/diode encased in the
shrink tubing? Also, did you shorten the sensor wire, if so how? My sensor wire is to long. Does your ESC have a cooling fan.

I like your idea of mounting the ESC on the side, but I'm concerned about overheating the ESC.

That's an interesting thread. Some really clean installs. When I'm done, I don't think that my install will win any clean install rewards.
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Old 01-30-2009, 05:01 AM   #735
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Originally Posted by Geppetto View Post
You certainly got it all in there. Is that the capacitor/diode encased in the
shrink tubing? Also, did you shorten the sensor wire, if so how? My sensor wire is to long. Does your ESC have a cooling fan.

I like your idea of mounting the ESC on the side, but I'm concerned about overheating the ESC.

That's an interesting thread. Some really clean installs. When I'm done, I don't think that my install will win any clean install rewards.
The GTB will fit,just, if you thin down the divider in the back of tub behind the motor, have the power wires face the belt, and zip tie the cap to rear bulkhead brace.
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