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Old 01-28-2009, 05:18 AM   #706
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question?

when I ran my car last weekend the car is twitchy coming out of the corners (ever since I change to a 3racing chassis), my set up was the same with the tub.If I install my rear stabilizer bar will this help? also if I make my car longer will this help too?
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Old 01-28-2009, 06:40 AM   #707
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One thing to keep in mind is this car in any incarnation needs more neg camber than most cars. I usually run -2.5 as a starter. For foam it was more than that!

When I switched to the short arms the car seemed more stable...that's about all I felt.
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Main reason I ask about the short arms is guys that have TA05's here (just got mine) have trouble with traction rolling on carpet when the traction gets really high. They are the best cars on our track when the traction is low to medium but then they can't compete. At the Novak race in TA I had heard that some were narrowing the width to keep from traction rolling. That really didn't make sense to me but I'm not that great with setup anyway. Then I also have seen where it increases the mechanical grip as reen mentioned. Wouldn't that make it worse?

Then on the Tamiya site it states "Once installed, the chassis roll action reduces improving stability. " Now that would seem to say the short arms would handle a high traction situation better.

So I'm confused.
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Old 01-28-2009, 07:11 AM   #708
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Your regular 05 is not using the reversible "longer" arms right?
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Old 01-28-2009, 07:23 AM   #709
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The only time this happened to me it was from tightening the shock shaft too far into the plastic end. It deforms the hole, squeezing the ball too tightly. This would only explain the shaft end and not the cap end though...
Hmm... I hadn't thought of that. That's a real possibility. You really know your stuff.

I tried really hard to make the shock length the same for each shock. Maybe, I need to back off a bit.

What shock length do you recommend? Do you use any spacers on the shock shaft inside the shock body (internal limiters) to reduce shock length?

I was hoping to use my springs from my Super Mini CVA shocks that I used on my Spec Class TT-01 kit. I have a full set of the short springs. The only long springs I have are the ones included with the IFS-R kit.

While we're talking suspension, what sway bar(s) do you recommend?

Thanks!
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:17 AM   #710
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I'll keep the camber thought in mind. It isn't very often the traction locally is high enough that it is a problem but the TA nats and some of our bigger races here it has caused some issues.

Thanks Core for the thoughts on the arms. Do you think they are worth investing in or just nice to have?
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:33 AM   #711
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They are just nice to have...not a must have.
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Originally Posted by padailey View Post
I'll keep the camber thought in mind. It isn't very often the traction locally is high enough that it is a problem but the TA nats and some of our bigger races here it has caused some issues.

Thanks Core for the thoughts on the arms. Do you think they are worth investing in or just nice to have?
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:36 AM   #712
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Originally Posted by cheehtae View Post
question?

when I ran my car last weekend the car is twitchy coming out of the corners (ever since I change to a 3racing chassis), my set up was the same with the tub.If I install my rear stabilizer bar will this help? also if I make my car longer will this help too?
You've changed it into a completely different car, so your setup will certainly have to change.

If you install a rear sway bar the rear end will become even looser. I'd start by laying the tops of the rear shocks inwards a notch at a time. After that you could change to a softer rear spring.
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:45 AM   #713
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When using the carbon rear shock tower, are you supposed to mount the body posts in front or back? When I mount them in front like the instructions say, the camber link hits them. Could it be because I converted it from an 05R?

I don't see the harm in mounting the posts on the rear of the tower, but just wanted to see what you guys thought.
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:50 AM   #714
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When using the carbon rear shock tower, are you supposed to mount the body posts in front or back? When I mount them in front like the instructions say, the camber link hits them. Could it be because I converted it from an 05R?

I don't see the harm in mounting the posts on the rear of the tower, but just wanted to see what you guys thought.
yes, you need to swap them to the rear of the tower.
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:54 AM   #715
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Originally Posted by Geppetto View Post
Hmm... I hadn't thought of that. That's a real possibility. You really know your stuff.

I tried really hard to make the shock length the same for each shock. Maybe, I need to back off a bit.

What shock length do you recommend? Do you use any spacers on the shock shaft inside the shock body (internal limiters) to reduce shock length?

I was hoping to use my springs from my Super Mini CVA shocks that I used on my Spec Class TT-01 kit. I have a full set of the short springs. The only long springs I have are the ones included with the IFS-R kit.

While we're talking suspension, what sway bar(s) do you recommend?

Thanks!
I built the shocks exactly to the manual. I've only had the car a short while and with Tamiya kits I've found that if you follow the manual precisely you get a solid and forgiving starting setup. It seems they put a lot of testing and thought into that. If you've screwed the shock shafts in to the point where no threads or shoulder show then that's probably too far.

I don't see any need to reduce shock length. You wouldn't want the shocks to be topped out at normal ride height or you wouldn't get any droop.
I haven't checked to see if the shorter springs will fit, but there's probably enough adjustment to the threaded collars to do it. As long as they don't fully compress before your chassis bottoms they'll be fine, but you'll have to experiment to find which spring rate to choose.

The IFS-R comes with 4 red springs, which is pretty soft. I don't run sway bars at all. I'm on outdoor asphalt and have never needed them. We just resurfaced our track and it's way grippy now, so I may try light ones and see what happens, although I'm pretty happy with how the car handles right now.
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:57 AM   #716
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Originally Posted by cheehtae View Post
question?

when I ran my car last weekend the car is twitchy coming out of the corners (ever since I change to a 3racing chassis), my set up was the same with the tub.If I install my rear stabilizer bar will this help? also if I make my car longer will this help too?
Your car is almost 100g lighter with that conversion so you need to change everything. You lost the chassis flex from the tub, so you will have to to change the shock settings to compensate. You can also fiddle with the steering setting on your radio to make the car less reactive.
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Old 01-28-2009, 10:20 AM   #717
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Originally Posted by Geppetto View Post
Hmm... I hadn't thought of that. That's a real possibility. You really know your stuff.

I tried really hard to make the shock length the same for each shock. Maybe, I need to back off a bit.

What shock length do you recommend? Do you use any spacers on the shock shaft inside the shock body (internal limiters) to reduce shock length?

I was hoping to use my springs from my Super Mini CVA shocks that I used on my Spec Class TT-01 kit. I have a full set of the short springs. The only long springs I have are the ones included with the IFS-R kit.

While we're talking suspension, what sway bar(s) do you recommend?

Thanks!
definitely back off on the shock ends right to the point where it becomes loose. You do not need internal spacers for cars that has droop screws. Get yourself a set of these:
http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-5...rd-p-4593.html.
Actually, most touring car spring sets work, so experiment with this first. I found it to be good when you use a one step harder spring on the front of the IFS cars.
I don't use sways in general. I might want to use it on a super grippy surface, but on outdoor asphalt I don't see a need for them.
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Old 01-28-2009, 11:20 AM   #718
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Originally Posted by reenmachine View Post
I built the shocks exactly to the manual. I've only had the car a short while and with Tamiya kits I've found that if you follow the manual precisely you get a solid and forgiving starting setup. It seems they put a lot of testing and thought into that. If you've screwed the shock shafts in to the point where no threads or shoulder show then that's probably too far.

I don't see any need to reduce shock length. You wouldn't want the shocks to be topped out at normal ride height or you wouldn't get any droop.
I haven't checked to see if the shorter springs will fit, but there's probably enough adjustment to the threaded collars to do it. As long as they don't fully compress before your chassis bottoms they'll be fine, but you'll have to experiment to find which spring rate to choose.

The IFS-R comes with 4 red springs, which is pretty soft. I don't run sway bars at all. I'm on outdoor asphalt and have never needed them. We just resurfaced our track and it's way grippy now, so I may try light ones and see what happens, although I'm pretty happy with how the car handles right now.

That's exactly what I did. I have no thread or shoulder showing. I'll be sure to back off a bit.

Confession time: I just returned to RC after a 2+ year layoff. Despite my best efforts, I have forgotten some things. My return began October 2008 in a spec class TT-01. Never thought that I'd run a chassis like the TT-01 (snobbery), but I haven't had this much fun in my previous 11 years of RC. It's a blast.

Anyway, I completely forgot about the use of droop in tuning. The TT-01 (non- Drift kit) doesn't do droop.

I'm sure all of that RC knowledge will return. I hope.

BTW, my TA05 IFS-R came with white springs (w/red dots on the bottom). We are very fortunate to have an indoor asphalt track (almost pool table flat) with high grip. I will stick with the kit settings as you recommend.
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Old 01-28-2009, 11:25 AM   #719
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definitely back off on the shock ends right to the point where it becomes loose. You do not need internal spacers for cars that has droop screws. Get yourself a set of these:
http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-5...rd-p-4593.html.
Actually, most touring car spring sets work, so experiment with this first. I found it to be good when you use a one step harder spring on the front of the IFS cars.
I don't use sways in general. I might want to use it on a super grippy surface, but on outdoor asphalt I don't see a need for them.
Thanks for the suggestions. Have you purchased from eTamiya? I haven't used them, but I'm finding that many of the replacement and option parts aren't available locally. When I search online, the majority of the shops that have the parts I want are located in the Far East. I don't mind ordering there, it's just the wait.
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Old 01-28-2009, 11:38 AM   #720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geppetto View Post
BTW, my TA05 IFS-R came with white springs (w/red dots on the bottom). We are very fortunate to have an indoor asphalt track (almost pool table flat) with high grip. I will stick with the kit settings as you recommend.
Yeah, those are the "red" springs. Tamiya makes a set identical to the one redbones linked to but with all-white springs except for a dot at one end identifying the color. This is so other guys at the track can't tell what setup you're running. The standard sway bar kit is color coded as well, but the IFS-R comes with the "stealth" all-black bars for the same counter-espionage reason.

Also like redbones said, it is common to use a slightly harder spring up front than in the rear. If you find that you have oversteer that is the first thing I'd try. Go to yellows in the front and keep the reds in the rear.

I get many of my Tamiya parts from speedtech (www.speedtechrc.com). They're in the Los Angeles area and are a great shop and strong supporters of the hobby. Stuff they don't carry I order from Hong Kong or Japan.

Here's the spring set you should get (they're out of stock right now but here's the info):

springs at speedtech
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