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Old 01-26-2009, 05:37 AM   #676
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Ok, Reenmachine. Thanks. I guess I need to pay closer attention to the instructions in the side bar. I can now see that there is a slight indication of shading for the different color spacers. I tried using my calipers to measure the different spacers, but one of the measurements must refer to the inner hole, because the size didn't seem to match up.

On a related note, take a look at the attached images. The front bulk head shown in the manual has only 4 holes for mounting the turnbuckles. The bulk head that came in my kit actually has 5 holes. Which hole do you suggest I start with?

I really appreciate being able to exchange ideas with you guys as I build.
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Tamiya TA05 IFS-ta05-ifs.jpg   Tamiya TA05 IFS-ta05-ifs-.jpg  
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:41 AM   #677
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Ok, Reenmachine. Thanks. I guess I need to pay closer attention to the instructions in the side bar. I can now see that there is a slight indication of shading for the different color spacers. I tried using my calipers to measure the different spacers, but one of the measurements must refer to the inner hole, because the size didn't seem to match up.
A spacer called 3x2.5, for example, has a 3mm hole and a 2.5mm thickness.

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On a related note, take a look at the attached images. The front bulk head shown in the manual has only 4 holes for mounting the turnbuckles. The bulk head that came in my kit actually has 5 holes.
Are you sure? My rear bulkhead has 5 holes but the front only has 4 as shown in the manual.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:48 AM   #678
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A spacer called 3x2.5, for example, has a 3mm hole and a 2.5mm thickness.



Are you sure? My rear bulkhead has 5 holes but the front only has 4 as shown in the manual.
That's it! The inner inner hole is the other measurement. I was measuring the thickness and the outer diameter.

I'll post a photo when I get home today. Yes, I'm sure that the front has 5 holes, unlike the image I posted and it seems yours too.

Funny thing, the TA05 IFS Setting Sheet (http://www.tamiya.com/japan/download...5ifs_blank.pdf) shows 4 holes also.

I'm beginning to question my own sanity.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:57 AM   #679
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Post # 238 in this thread has a photo where the front bulkhead also has 5 holes. Is it possible 2 rear bulk head covers are included in the kit???

Here's a photo from an earlier post from this thread (#258).
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:57 AM   #680
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Another thing that's driving me crazy are these philips screws. I'm using a #2 driver, but I'm still stripping the screw heads. I don't want Ti screws, but TCS legal Hex Head would be nice.
Larry, do yourself a favor
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42104

$38.50 shipped. It only took about 7-10 days with the $2 shipping. Well worth it and a lot cheaper than US prices.

Also, FYI any man screw is US TCS legal, only if you head to JAPAN do they need to be Tamiya. But I priced out screws here and it was still cheaper to get that set.

Not sure how different the screw set would be for the IFS.
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:00 AM   #681
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I'll post a photo when I get home today. Yes, I'm sure that the front has 5 holes, unlike the image I posted and it seems yours too.

Funny thing, the TA05 IFS Setting Sheet (http://www.tamiya.com/japan/download...5ifs_blank.pdf) shows 4 holes also.

I'm beginning to question my own sanity.
Here's my theory: the regular TA05 has 5 holes front and rear because they're exactly the same part. The IFS-R kit comes with two of the regular upper bulkheads, because they're on the 'A' parts tree and there are other needed parts on there. The IFS-specific front upper bulkhead is on a different tree, 'N' parts. I think perhaps you used the wrong upper bulkhead on the front -- if it has the holes to mount the regular shock tower it's the wrong one.
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Old 01-26-2009, 12:13 PM   #682
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do yourself a favor
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42104

$38.50 shipped. It only took about 7-10 days with the $2 shipping. Well worth it and a lot cheaper than US prices.

Also, FYI any man screw is US TCS legal, only if you head to JAPAN do they need to be Tamiya. But I priced out screws here and it was still cheaper to get that set.

Not sure how different the screw set would be for the IFS.
I think you provided the wrong link, but I think that I know what you meant
to point to: Tamiya Team Philips driver (anodized blue handle)??? I've seen one before, but have not been able to find it.

That's good to hear. I'll try to find a set of screws that are non Titanium. If not, I may get the Ti screws. I just didn't want to pay for Ti screws. It's not likely I'll be going to Japan based on my driving ability.
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Old 01-26-2009, 12:26 PM   #683
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Here's my theory: the regular TA05 has 5 holes front and rear because they're exactly the same part. The IFS-R kit comes with two of the regular upper bulkheads, because they're on the 'A' parts tree and there are other needed parts on there. The IFS-specific front upper bulkhead is on a different tree, 'N' parts. I think perhaps you used the wrong upper bulkhead on the front -- if it has the holes to mount the regular shock tower it's the wrong one.
reenmachine: I think that you have hit the nail on the head. That makes sense to me.

I think old age and impatience is catching up with me. I was going over the instructions during my lunch break, and I think that I may have made at least 2 other mistakes. I didn't realize that there were 2 different sizes of "flanged tubes" used between the steering knuckle and the C carrier. A taller flanged tube for the bottom, and a shorter one for the top.

Did I mention that I assembled the diff wrong??? I put the screw in from the wrong end. That's why I broke the lip off the end of the diff joint. I was not able to squeeze the end because the plastic piece that holds the diff nut was so close to the end that I could not squeeze the diff joint end, and ended up breaking the lip while trying to remove the blue ring. However, I'm not taking responsibility for that mistake. The instructions didn't say that I had to flip the diff over then insert the screw from the bottom. I thought inserting the screw from the bottom was a continuation of from the previous diagram using the same orientation.

I'm loosing my mind. Hope I can find it before I leave work today.
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Old 01-26-2009, 12:47 PM   #684
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reenmachine: I think that you have hit the nail on the head.
Well, even a blind dog finds a bone once in a while.

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I think old age and impatience is catching up with me. I was going over the instructions during my lunch break, and I think that I may have made at least 2 other mistakes. I didn't realize that there were 2 different sizes of "flanged tubes" used between the steering knuckle and the C carrier. A taller flanged tube for the bottom, and a shorter one for the top.
I did find that the IFS-R was a different animal to build than a regular kit like a TA05, TB02, or whatever. Many features and procedures were similar to what you'd find in a pro-level kit like a 416.

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Did I mention that I assembled the diff wrong??? I put the screw in from the wrong end. That's why I broke the lip off the end of the diff joint. I was not able to squeeze the end because the plastic piece that holds the diff nut was so close to the end that I could not squeeze the diff joint end, and ended up breaking the lip while trying to remove the blue ring. However, I'm not taking responsibility for that mistake. The instructions didn't say that I had to flip the diff over then insert the screw from the bottom. I thought inserting the screw from the bottom was a continuation of from the previous diagram using the same orientation.
It's really subtle how the instructions tell you to flip the diff over. The arrow pointing from one diagram to the next is twisted (see pic) and the renderings of the diff halves reflect this. They could have made it a lot more obvious though.

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Old 01-26-2009, 01:00 PM   #685
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It's really subtle how the instructions tell you to flip the diff over. The arrow pointing from one diagram to the next is twisted (see pic) and the renderings of the diff halves reflect this. They could have made it a lot more obvious though.

I'm completely blown away by that!!! That's just crazy. I would have never noticed that.

Yesterday, after I had already built the diffs, I realized that the pic shows the diff inverted. I couldn't get the dogbone to fit into the diff joint. That's when I broke the lip off trying to undo what I did wrong. However, I surely did not notice the stupid twisted arrow. Maybe I should just start all over again.
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Old 01-26-2009, 02:00 PM   #686
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I think you provided the wrong link, but I think that I know what you meant
to point to: Tamiya Team Philips driver (anodized blue handle)??? I've seen one before, but have not been able to find it.

That's good to hear. I'll try to find a set of screws that are non Titanium. If not, I may get the Ti screws. I just didn't want to pay for Ti screws. It's not likely I'll be going to Japan based on my driving ability.

Sorry this is what I meant:

http://stores.ebay.com/Rdvtg-Hobbies...QQftidZ2QQtZkm
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Old 01-26-2009, 02:04 PM   #687
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not to sound rude, but i think the longer diff cup can not be mistaken from the pic....
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Old 01-26-2009, 02:13 PM   #688
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not to sound rude, but i think the longer diff cup can not be mistaken from the pic....
Not to sound rude, but what's your point? He had some issues and asked for a little input, which he received. No need to bust his chops over it.
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Old 01-26-2009, 02:39 PM   #689
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not to sound rude, but i think the longer diff cup can not be mistaken from the pic....
I agree, but I mistook step #2 as a progression (from left to right). Assemble the diff components, then insert the cap screw from the bottom. That's the way I interpreted the step. Now that it has been pointed out to me, I see it clearly.

It's an honest mistake. I'll probably make many more in my lifetime. I'm just glad that there are folks here willing to help.
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:54 PM   #690
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FWIW, I just spent a bunch of time costing out converting a regular TA05 to IFS-R specs. This is with price shopping and ordering almost everything from Hong Kong. It was just about $250 before shipping.

...think I'll just buy another entire IFS-R for $250 when the time comes...
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