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Old 01-20-2009, 11:42 PM   #661
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What did you do with the carbon tub? Is it in good shape?
yes! it is in a good shape and and still new. i need some parts to complete this carbon tub kit coz i plan to make this as a drift car kit. why? you are interested this chassis tub?
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Old 01-21-2009, 07:10 AM   #662
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yes! it is in a good shape and and still new. i need some parts to complete this carbon tub kit coz i plan to make this as a drift car kit. why? you are interested this chassis tub?
Yes, if it's the carbon lightweight tub (not the kit standard one) I'm interested. PM me if you'd like to get rid of it.
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Old 01-21-2009, 05:11 PM   #663
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Installed my 3racing chassis, LIPO will fit ( pro tek 3800). Chassis is not as stiff as I thought it would be ( will use it for carpet racing) has some flex in it. No holes for antenna mount ( maybe they design it like that so you can choose your own location). Have not tried it yet maybe this weekend.
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Old 01-21-2009, 10:15 PM   #664
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Installed my 3racing chassis, LIPO will fit ( pro tek 3800). Chassis is not as stiff as I thought it would be ( will use it for carpet racing) has some flex in it. No holes for antenna mount ( maybe they design it like that so you can choose your own location). Have not tried it yet maybe this weekend.
3racing chassis is ok for me and i try it already and i like it! and about the antenna mount just check my attachement you can see were i put my antenna and about the battery mount i put a small solid hard black plastic L-shape near the center pulley so even a sub c battery will not touch the center pulley.
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Old 01-22-2009, 03:48 AM   #665
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3racing chassis is ok for me and i try it already and i like it! and about the antenna mount just check my attachement you can see were i put my antenna and about the battery mount i put a small solid hard black plastic L-shape near the center pulley so even a sub c battery will not touch the center pulley.
do you race it on carpet or asphalt? foam or rubber on carpet? If.
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Old 01-22-2009, 05:24 AM   #666
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do you race it on carpet or asphalt? foam or rubber on carpet? If.
we are racing here in a smooth asphalt surface and we are using rubber type tire we called it here ''bulate tire'' from HPI Pirelli T Rally Tire 26mm D Compound. whta is the difference if im using my graphite chassis kit in a carpet surface?
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Old 01-22-2009, 06:03 AM   #667
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graphite chassis tends to be stiffer than tub chassis, and as such, is more suited for carpet racing.
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Old 01-22-2009, 02:54 PM   #668
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Old 01-24-2009, 09:16 AM   #669
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Does anyone know of any other graphite chassis for the IFS? The only one I can find any info in is by 3racing
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Old 01-24-2009, 10:35 AM   #670
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Does anyone know of any other graphite chassis for the IFS? The only one I can find any info in is by 3racing
http://www.tech-racing.co.jp/ta05-athlete.html
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Old 01-24-2009, 10:52 AM   #671
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Xenon Racing also made a conversion kit a few years back as well.
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Old 01-24-2009, 11:59 AM   #672
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Thanks for the help. Both of those look to be for the standard TA05 only, though.
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Old 01-24-2009, 08:48 PM   #673
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tried my 3 racing chassis, definitel oticed the differem=nce between tub and CF chassis, got tons of steering. Only thing is , just what Ive mentioned is it's not as stiff as others that are "F" badge, but it's still good. All I need now is a good set-up.
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Old 01-25-2009, 04:21 PM   #674
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First, this is not the first kit I've built. Probably more like number 25 or 30. So, this TA05 IFS-R isn't any harder than other kits I've built.

However, this will be my first time racing in such a tightly controlled event like our local TCS race. The idea of possibly being disqualified because I made an illegal chassis modification/change worries me. The instructions say to widen the opening under the diff pulley to prevent the belts contacting the chassis. Is this a legal modification.

So, I've completed the diffs, belts bulkheads, universals, front and rear A arms and front and rear up rights, and C carriers.

The problem I have so far is with the rear outer hinge points. The instructions (page 7, Step #10) say to use 1 spacer (3 x 0.5mm) on each side of the upright. I did that, but that pivot point is now binding. If I lift the arm up and release it, it falls, but the movement is not free. Is this something that will free up over time or are there thinner spacers available?

Pet Peeves:

The spacers. I've got blue spacers, silver spacers, thin spacers and thick spacers and I'm having a heck of a time differentiating one from another in some cases.

Another thing that's driving me crazy are these philips screws. I'm using a #2 driver, but I'm still stripping the screw heads. I don't want Ti screws, but TCS legal Hex Head would be nice.

I broke the lip that holds the blue ring that goes on the outer edge of the diff joint. I did this on both the front and rear diffs while trying to remove those blue rings.

Personally, I'd like to get rid of the blue bits. I probably will.

On the bight side, the build is coming along well. The parts seem to fit together quite well, and the quality is pretty decent. I can't wait to finish and get it on the track.
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Old 01-25-2009, 07:23 PM   #675
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Originally Posted by Geppetto View Post
However, this will be my first time racing in such a tightly controlled event like our local TCS race. The idea of possibly being disqualified because I made an illegal chassis modification/change worries me. The instructions say to widen the opening under the diff pulley to prevent the belts contacting the chassis. Is this a legal modification.
If it's in the instruction manual, it's legal.

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Originally Posted by Geppetto View Post
The problem I have so far is with the rear outer hinge points. The instructions (page 7, Step #10) say to use 1 spacer (3 x 0.5mm) on each side of the upright. I did that, but that pivot point is now binding. If I lift the arm up and release it, it falls, but the movement is not free. Is this something that will free up over time or are there thinner spacers available?
Shims are always to be used only as needed. I'm too lazy to go look at my manual, but I'm pretty sure this is specifically stated regarding the rear uprights.

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Pet Peeves:

The spacers. I've got blue spacers, silver spacers, thin spacers and thick spacers and I'm having a heck of a time differentiating one from another in some cases.
A quick check is to measure the thickness with a mic or caliper. They use different colors to differentiate spacers that are close in size and thus would be easy to mix up if they were all the same color. Also, in the left sidebar in the instructions, where the parts needed are called out, the drawing will be shaded for blue spacers and left clear for silver spacers.

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Originally Posted by Geppetto View Post
Another thing that's driving me crazy are these philips screws. I'm using a #2 driver, but I'm still stripping the screw heads. I don't want Ti screws, but TCS legal Hex Head would be nice.
Don't tighten them so much!

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Originally Posted by Geppetto View Post
I broke the lip that holds the blue ring that goes on the outer edge of the diff joint. I did this on both the front and rear diffs while trying to remove those blue rings.
You can squeeze the outdrives together a bit and the rings slide right off.

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I can't wait to finish and get it on the track.
You will love it!
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