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Old 07-01-2008, 08:26 AM   #331
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Ok, fair enough.

So what exaclty is happening? You gun the throttle, let it off, and the rear wheels stop spinning instantly?
One other test is to disconnect the pinion from the motor, place the car on the ground and push it. If it rolls along nicely, which by all accounts from yourself, it should, then the drivetrain is fine.

If thats the case, sounds like there is an issue with brakes on the ESC, or the motor. Easy way to check the motor is simply borrow another one from someone else... if it does the same thing, then you can be pretty sure it's the ESC.

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Old 07-01-2008, 10:48 AM   #332
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reset all the settings on your radio, and start from scratch. Refer to your radio manual.
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Old 07-01-2008, 11:59 AM   #333
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Sounds like a too tight gear mesh.
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Old 07-01-2008, 05:50 PM   #334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adrictan View Post
Tested on ground and while holding it.
There's a few groups playing around in singapore, just join anyone for a session and they'll be able to point out the problems in a jiffy
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Old 07-03-2008, 06:01 AM   #335
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so what makes this car tick, tcs is coming up soon!

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Old 07-03-2008, 10:48 AM   #336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adrictan View Post
I've installed the spool for the rear. Well, the car rear wheels still lock up when I release my throttle. At first my frds thought my spur/pinion were placed too close but I've adjusted, no use. Belt tension is ok. Think I'll check my center pulley....
You're on to something here. I remember when building my car, I made sure that everything was smooth. I also remember that when assembling the center pulley there was tension when I installed the center top plate.

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It's definitely nt the dogbones cause I tool the rear belt off the center pulley and pull. Rear spins fine. I took the dogbones off the spool and pulled the belt. It still has the tension.
After reading this post, this also leads me to believe the problem is from the center top plate and center pulley. Remove both belts and spin the center pulley with the top plate installed. Probably some tension, right? Now, remove the center top plate and install 0.3mm shim under the plate for each screw. Now spin the center pulley and it should spin much smoother. Without the shims, when you screw on the top plate it pinches the bearings and creates drag. This is probably the issue causing you trouble.

Also, try re-shimming the rear pulley. The instructions show to use 2 shims on each side of the diff. On my car I think I used 1 shim on 1 side and 3 shims on the other. What you are looking for here, is to center the rear pulley in rear bulkhead. If the pulley is off to one side, it may rub against the top of the bulkhead when you screw it on. When screwing the top of the bulkhead on, be carefull not to overtighten these screws. If you do you may pinch the bearings and will not spin smoothly. This might not be your problem but I thought it might help.
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Old 07-03-2008, 10:58 AM   #337
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if you can rotate the axels(spin one of them with your fingers) without activating the diff, then your drivetrain is probably not causing this sudden stop. I did notice the center pulley binding when you screw the center plate down, but no where near halting the entire drive train.

This "sudden" stop, is it like you applied the brakes? what happens when you do apply the brakes? does it stop faster? have you tried resetting the setting on your radio? I helped a guy that had a similar problem, and it finally went away when we did a master reset on his radio. Also make sure you properly set the esc after that.
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Old 07-03-2008, 11:23 AM   #338
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I've found the problem. Turns out the rear wheels lock because of the motor's drag brake. I just had to adjust my transmitter to have more gain in forward momentum to lift the lock up.
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Old 07-03-2008, 11:38 AM   #339
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Sounds familiar
Quote:
Originally Posted by adrictan View Post
I've found the problem. Turns out the rear wheels lock because of the motor's drag brake. I just had to adjust my transmitter to have more gain in forward momentum to lift the lock up.
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Old 07-05-2008, 06:37 AM   #340
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any parking lot setups out there?

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Old 07-06-2008, 10:59 PM   #341
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Could anyone let me know what droop you ran on the IFS as well as ride height front to rear. TIA
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Old 07-11-2008, 05:23 PM   #342
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any folks have issues w/turnbuckles being too long for the R?

does it have LW susp like the regular R? cant confirm

came with 46mm shafts, but i thought that was for reg length and 48s were LW. thoughts?

R

ps- will ta05 spool mate to new gear?
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Old 07-11-2008, 05:35 PM   #343
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update, it does have LW according to manual. just surprised b/c i thought LW cars needed 48mm shafts? am i wrong w/this car? the 415 blocks change things? help

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Old 07-11-2008, 05:44 PM   #344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultegrasti View Post
update, it does have LW according to manual. just surprised b/c i thought LW cars needed 48mm shafts? am i wrong w/this car? the 415 blocks change things? help

R
My IFS has LW and 48.
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Old 07-11-2008, 05:46 PM   #345
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hmm....only thing i find on tamiya is 46 and 44s (WTH)?

ugh

big thing is the spool and some of the turnbuckles being too long.

R
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