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Old 11-04-2007, 06:43 AM   #136
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I ran my IFS Conversion on friday night on carpet in 27t class with rubber tyres and found it to be better than the standard TA05, it was alot more precise in the corners. I even did enough laps to qualify 2nd in the 19t class!!!

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Old 11-04-2007, 08:25 AM   #137
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- 3x9.5 step screw, comes in a pair = 9805840
- 2 3x0.7 aluminium spacer (from wherever, you can get this in a pack of spacers or singly)
- 2 4.5x3.5 flange tube (for the steering knuckles) = 9808021
Am having trouble tracking these down. Can anyone recommend alternatives or know where i can get these?
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Old 11-04-2007, 08:53 AM   #138
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for the 3x9.5 step screw use a normal screw and use a dremel to make the diameter of the head smaller, you may also have to use the dremel on the plastic brace as well

Liam
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Old 11-04-2007, 11:18 PM   #139
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Am having trouble tracking these down. Can anyone recommend alternatives or know where i can get these?
I got mine from rc champ, they had to order them which took about a week. I also ordered the 28mm threaded shaft from them. After building a standard IFS the Ta05R is definately the best way to go, dont like the IFS arms. Plus the 05R looks sweet with all the blue aluminium especially the rocker arms.

The only thing is I think the holes for the pushrod ball joint are at different spacings than the IFS kit so you may have to lengthen them on the 05R
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Old 11-05-2007, 04:11 AM   #140
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is the convertion just plain bolt on and go or do i need to modify something??
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Old 11-05-2007, 04:14 AM   #141
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im getting ordinary tao5 but having 2nd tought on ta05 IFS.

is the IFS better than ordinary tao5?? Most of you guys are converting your tao5 to IFS. which kit is better??
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Old 11-05-2007, 08:38 AM   #142
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As i said on an earlier post i found the IFS to be better through the corners, alot more precise. I have only ran it indoors so far though

Liam
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Old 11-06-2007, 09:13 AM   #143
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Even though the theoretical geometry should make the IFS setup and stock TA05 setup the same, are you guys finding the dampers to need a different setup when put on the IFS setup? What changes do you typically have to make to get the front end to work right when compared to the regular TA05?
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Old 11-06-2007, 10:42 AM   #144
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I left mine the same as a starting point, and never had to change a thing!

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Old 11-07-2007, 03:12 AM   #145
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found an ebay store in singapore that stocks all the stuff!

looks like it wont be too long before i have everything ready for the build
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Old 11-07-2007, 03:18 AM   #146
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I just want to say... I think I am the 10,000th visitor on this thread ... sorry I won't do it again.
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Old 11-08-2007, 08:26 PM   #147
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Default more pics of the ta05 ifrs

hiya folks,

here are 3 more pics. i've not completed my lc70 bodyshell, hence the rear shock tower for mounting normal touring shells. when the lc70 bodyshell is completed, i will use an alternative body mounting method.

the rear rockers are fixed unto modified rear chassis brace.
the rear chassis brace has a front chassis brace glued and bolted to it. the angles are much higher and requires the use of a longer turnbuckle pushrod (35mm, which i dunt have, hence the use of offroad ball joints, which are longer and allow me to use shorter turnbuckles) use a lot of JB weld/araldite and small bolts (2mm) the total weight of the modified rear brace with rockers is 30 grams (heavy!). i'll find a way to make a lighter version in the future.

enjoy!
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TA05 IFS-ta05-ifrs01.jpg   Tamiya TA05 IFS-ta05-ifrs02.jpg   Tamiya TA05 IFS-ta05-ifrs03.jpg  
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Old 11-16-2007, 03:18 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foampervert View Post
okies,

here is a list of stuff you need to get if you are converting from ta05 to ta05 IFS; exclude all the red items if you own a ta05R cos you already have those parts in your kit.

- N-part = 51294, can be replaced with reinforced N-part = 53991 (you will need to get 4 850 bearings for the rocker arms unless you get 53993 which comes with bearings)
- F-part = 51293 (trust me, its not the same)
- C-part = 51296 (trust me, its not the same either)
- 3x9.5 step screw, comes in a pair = 9805840
- rocker nut, comes in a pair = 9808126, can be replaced with aluminium rocker nut = 53992
- aluminium rocker arm set (for bling, cos you get real good and stiff rocker arms with 53991) = 53993
- carbon rear shock tower = 53994 (also for bling)
- LW reversible arms (your choice, hard/soft/short/long) and corresponding axles (ta05R owners already have these arms).
- E-part = 51298 (ta05R owners already have this)
- 2 3x0.7 aluminium spacer (from wherever, you can get this in a pack of spacers or singly)
- 2 28mm turnbuckles
- 2 4.6x4.7 flange tube (for the steering knuckles) = 51100
- 2 4.5x3.5 flange tube (for the steering knuckles) = 9808021
- 2 5x8 ball connector
(for the steering knuckles) = 53969

slap them together and you will have a TA05 IFS!

good luck!

-alexander

p.s. dunt bother with the alloy steering hubs as you will spend a minor fortune on replacement bearings... non of the parts you listed are neccesary, only the ones in my list.

Oh No !
just after I've bought mentioned itens before, this list came out
I've got
53994 Tamiya TA05-IFS Rear Carbon Damper Stay
53991 Tamiya TA05-IFS Carbon Rein. N Parts
53992 Tamiya TA05-IFS Alu. Rocker Nut
only !
and I have a TA05 (not the R)
I need the other parts listed ?

also I've bough for experience issues one only 49472 Tamiya TA05 WP Diff Pulley 36T - and I don't knew what is it, so now I know, and have only one, when as better to bought two for front AND rear (I use diff wtihout oneway), its better to place this wide pitch front, rear or wait to put two togheter ?
thanks !
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Old 11-17-2007, 01:54 AM   #149
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this car have many option parts to option !
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Old 11-20-2007, 07:18 PM   #150
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Default durability?

Hi all, I currently have an 05R, and I am contemplating doing the conversion, mainly 'cos it looks cool (especially the ebbro body...). The question I have is, how durable is the setup? I am still a bit of a newbie, racing toward the back of the local club 'intermediate' 540 class, so still hit the wall occasionally. Are there any parts I should get extra of or should I skip the conversion altogether?

It seems from the thread that the performance (ie handling) should remain similar to how it is at the moment, so I am not too concerned about that, just about the potential for breakage.

The track I race on is indoor carpet, I think it is a reasonably technical track. (I dont have much to compare it too, but the mod guys do about 12 second laps, and the good 540 guys are around 14.5 seconds, and there are usually two hairpins, a couple of chicanes, and the main straight is around 30 meters)

Thanks in advance!
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