Tamiya TA05MS
#1186
What motor temp range should I be looking for when looking for an ideal FDR? I will run the car on asphalt outdoor track with approximately 100-120ft straight line? I do have infrared temp gun for nitro engine BTW.
#1187
Depending on how offset the rims are you might need a larger hex and/or wheel spacers..
Where the shock mounts on the lower arm may be too close to the rim/wheel (i've had this issue running the widest holes for the lower shock mount and 24mm rims/rubber)..
you might get away with using the 2nd widest hole and a 6mm hex with or without a 1mm wheel spacer..
Where the shock mounts on the lower arm may be too close to the rim/wheel (i've had this issue running the widest holes for the lower shock mount and 24mm rims/rubber)..
you might get away with using the 2nd widest hole and a 6mm hex with or without a 1mm wheel spacer..
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-f20...th=595_744_720
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-ta0...th=595_744_720
#1188
The TA05MS is quite a bit faster than the TA05R. Also, the drivetrain on the MS is more efficient and more reliable.
I currently run a TA05MS and a TRF416. I like both, but at the moment, my 416 is better dialed. I'm trying some things out to see if I can get the 05MS at least to that level. Then again, I know my 416 has a few bugs to work out so that can get faster too...
I currently run a TA05MS and a TRF416. I like both, but at the moment, my 416 is better dialed. I'm trying some things out to see if I can get the 05MS at least to that level. Then again, I know my 416 has a few bugs to work out so that can get faster too...
#1189
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
one thing i try and do is find a ratio that keeps the motor in the 60-70 deg C range and call it the safe ratio (cruisy but competitive etc)
probably no more than around 80-90 deg C if you're pushing the motors, but it really depends on what motor
an example of one that likes to run hot..
my SP 3.5 likes to run over 100 deg C when geared at 10.5 FDR on an outdoor asphalt track with 55 deg track temps and 30-35 deg ambient/air temps
the same wind from LRP geared at 9 FDR pushes 70-80 deg C
#1190
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
6mm hubs..
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-f20...9-p-14465.html
and wheel spacers..
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-nut...?cPath=421_343
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-whe...6-p-16432.html
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-whe...7-p-11687.html
#1191
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
The TA05MS is quite a bit faster than the TA05R. Also, the drivetrain on the MS is more efficient and more reliable.
I currently run a TA05MS and a TRF416. I like both, but at the moment, my 416 is better dialed. I'm trying some things out to see if I can get the 05MS at least to that level. Then again, I know my 416 has a few bugs to work out so that can get faster too...
I currently run a TA05MS and a TRF416. I like both, but at the moment, my 416 is better dialed. I'm trying some things out to see if I can get the 05MS at least to that level. Then again, I know my 416 has a few bugs to work out so that can get faster too...
i thought my car was pretty well setup before, but boy does it seem to handle now..
(at least on street testing, hasnt seen a track yet)
-Mark
#1192
this can be quite different for different motors i've found..
one thing i try and do is find a ratio that keeps the motor in the 60-70 deg C range and call it the safe ratio (cruisy but competitive etc)
probably no more than around 80-90 deg C if you're pushing the motors, but it really depends on what motor
an example of one that likes to run hot..
my SP 3.5 likes to run over 100 deg C when geared at 10.5 FDR on an outdoor asphalt track with 55 deg track temps and 30-35 deg ambient/air temps
the same wind from LRP geared at 9 FDR pushes 70-80 deg C
one thing i try and do is find a ratio that keeps the motor in the 60-70 deg C range and call it the safe ratio (cruisy but competitive etc)
probably no more than around 80-90 deg C if you're pushing the motors, but it really depends on what motor
an example of one that likes to run hot..
my SP 3.5 likes to run over 100 deg C when geared at 10.5 FDR on an outdoor asphalt track with 55 deg track temps and 30-35 deg ambient/air temps
the same wind from LRP geared at 9 FDR pushes 70-80 deg C
#1193
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
- file the battery slots to make sure the batteries fit in snug
- if you plan on using tape to hold the battery in, file the tape slots so they wont cut the tape (sharp edges on CF are bad for this)
- glue ALL exposed edges of carbon fibre, including all cutouts/slots etc (bottom and top decks, damper stays)
- make sure that you use the anti-wear grease where it says (you'll prob find that taking an inner suspension bridge out once assembled is annoying etc)
- notch the pins that go inside the universal's cross joints abuot half way down so the grub screw sits in it and use threadlock on the grub screw
- in the front uprights there is a screw that goes in from the bottom (through a flanged tube) and into the lower screw hole in the upright.. would recommend that you use a 2mm longer screw there than the manual suggests (i think it says 8mm, use 10mm) so it wont strip out easily
- dont over-tighten the 2 screws that hold the spur gear onto the spur gear holder as it will warp the spur gear if over-tightened
....hopefully thats a start for you
-Mark
#1194
here's my tips for the build...
- file the battery slots to make sure the batteries fit in snug
- if you plan on using tape to hold the battery in, file the tape slots so they wont cut the tape (sharp edges on CF are bad for this)
- glue ALL exposed edges of carbon fibre, including all cutouts/slots etc (bottom and top decks, damper stays)
- make sure that you use the anti-wear grease where it says (you'll prob find that taking an inner suspension bridge out once assembled is annoying etc)
- notch the pins that go inside the universal's cross joints abuot half way down so the grub screw sits in it and use threadlock on the grub screw
- in the front uprights there is a screw that goes in from the bottom (through a flanged tube) and into the lower screw hole in the upright.. would recommend that you use a 2mm longer screw there than the manual suggests (i think it says 8mm, use 10mm) so it wont strip out easily
- dont over-tighten the 2 screws that hold the spur gear onto the spur gear holder as it will warp the spur gear if over-tightened
....hopefully thats a start for you
-Mark
- file the battery slots to make sure the batteries fit in snug
- if you plan on using tape to hold the battery in, file the tape slots so they wont cut the tape (sharp edges on CF are bad for this)
- glue ALL exposed edges of carbon fibre, including all cutouts/slots etc (bottom and top decks, damper stays)
- make sure that you use the anti-wear grease where it says (you'll prob find that taking an inner suspension bridge out once assembled is annoying etc)
- notch the pins that go inside the universal's cross joints abuot half way down so the grub screw sits in it and use threadlock on the grub screw
- in the front uprights there is a screw that goes in from the bottom (through a flanged tube) and into the lower screw hole in the upright.. would recommend that you use a 2mm longer screw there than the manual suggests (i think it says 8mm, use 10mm) so it wont strip out easily
- dont over-tighten the 2 screws that hold the spur gear onto the spur gear holder as it will warp the spur gear if over-tightened
....hopefully thats a start for you
-Mark
#1196
my TA05ms is now running short arms and very close to the TRF416WE setup (also replaced all the uprights, c-hubs, bearings, universals and a suspension bridge etc)..
i thought my car was pretty well setup before, but boy does it seem to handle now..
(at least on street testing, hasnt seen a track yet)
-Mark
i thought my car was pretty well setup before, but boy does it seem to handle now..
(at least on street testing, hasnt seen a track yet)
-Mark
#1198
Who out there is running 17.5 in their MS? whats the biggest spur and pinion i can get to fit without any modifications? i need to get my ratio as low as 3.5
Cheers
Cheers
#1199
You need a small spur and large pinion. I've never ran 17.5 and don't know what's the highest gear ratio you would be able to reach, but I did use a 88 tooth spur and a 47 tooth pinion without any issues with a 13.5.
#1200
Ok guys I need help ASAP, i just encounter my first problem building this kit. I m on step 12 on the manual assembling rear suspension arm to the chassis, when i put everything together the arms do not move freely up and down. My experience building nitro kits I always make sure the arms drop down under their own weight. I check and recheck the instruction as well as spacers/shim, still its not that free. I notice this when i screw in the rear suspension shaft block 1D. Is this normal or am I doing somethings wrong here? I do have various thickness motor shim in my tool box that I can use to replace the included shims, however I want to use and build as per the manual instructed.