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iTrader: (23)

the 416, its a much newer car and how the motor is placed will be better for you later on. the 416 has newer things and will be the faster one on the track (most likely) its a more mod class race car. i wish i had the 416. i wish i could tell you the differences but i dont know! good luck.

mok

iTrader: (9)

I've been racing the TA05MS in Mod for the last few months. In the most recent leg of the Drivers champ at my club I finished 1st and I also came 3rd in the Winter Champs - this was against a field of mostly late model or current XRays (in fact there is only 1 other Tamiya chassis being used).

The kit I am running includes..

Spektrum SR3000 Rx + DX3.0 Tx
Futaba 9551 servo
LRP Sphere Comp TC Spec ESC
LRP Vector x11 3.5T BL (with ceramic bearings)
Titanium screws throughout
Titanium turnbuckles throught
Square aluminium front uprights (5 degree caster) and C-hubs (note: this may mean lower arms break easier!)
5 cell Intellect 4600 packs
All bearings replaced with Acer Racing ceramic nitride bearings (and some JAAD racing ones for inside the diffs etc).

My car weighs in around 1480gms and is balanced perfectly left to right without using any additional weights. Front to rear balance is about 55% weight on the rear and 45% weight on the front.

The main points of wear would be the aluminium outdrives on the diffs (which I use in both the front and rear). The plastic swing shaft protectors wear fairly quickly and then the outdrives start to have a groove worn in them.

The holes in the steel wheel axles where the universal cross joint pins go through wear larger over a period of time giving slop in the wheels. Combined with the diff outdrive wear this makes for a fairly sloppy wheel unless these are replaced (I havent replaced either of these yet, but suspect that the outdrives/wheel axles should be replaced maybe every 3-6mths depending on your budget and carefactor).

Diffs last about 2-4wks without needing a rebuild and I'd be doing this once a month and replacing the steel diff balls (and either replacing the diff plates or flipping them) if you use them to keep the diff smooth. I am now using ceramic diff balls from JAAD racing and find that the length of time between diff rebuilds is about twice that when using the standard diff balls.

Centre pulleys wear fair quickly with the wrong tension on the belts, which ultimately leads to belts slipping and stripping teeth on the belts (same experience both front and rear belts for me).

Universals need playing with a fair bit too as the grub screws in the cross joints come loose fairly easily. Use a combination of threadlock on the grub screws and notch the pin half way down where the grub screw bites in and you'll stop having issues with the pin coming loose and locking the swingshafts (which in my experience can lead to stripping centre pulleys and belts, but is only really of an issue when using the spool as there is no diff action so this forces the belts to slip on the pulleys).

More power = more speed = more wear and more serious damage during crashes etc. Get yourself some replacement front and rear damper stays and the D parts sets (for the front and rear lower arms).

I'm sure there's more that I could babble but thats a good start

-Mark

ravenwolf

Thank you so much for the reply! Atleast I know this kit is capable for mod,,its just i needed an answer from racers like you. So how bout handling wise?.. is it ok even if its a midmount?.. thanks ahead.

mok

iTrader: (9)

i'm not confident that my car is setup as good as it can be, but it does seem to suit my style. i seem to like a rather stiff setup as i prefer to control the car more rather than throw it into corners etc..

i did at some point feel that it wasnt turning quickly enough through chicanes or s-bends and found a change in body worked well (stratus -> mazda6) along with lightening up the suspension to a medium/heavy setup. some minor alteration to front droop also assisted with keeping the steering good out of the corners under power.

to be honest, i dont think its a very forgiving car for mod racing but with the right setup that suits your style i dont see why it cant be competitive!

-Mark

Qatmix

I've recently switched over to a Protoform rf-9 on my Ta05ms and the results are great. It was as if the shell was made for the car. The speed that can be carried around the corners now is amazing!

I've just fitted the ezrun 9t brushless into the car, so looking forward to trying that this week

Interceptor

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys, hoping to get more help here than on the regular TA05 thread. I am looking for a good carpet set up for my TA05R running a 13.5. If anyone could PM me a good set up, I would really appriciate it. thank you.

mok

iTrader: (9)

Thought I'd post my comments here because it pretty much applies to the TA05MS as well IMHO..

- build the car to spec as per the manual (both chassis)
- put ball diffs in the front and rear (you'll need to get one for the TA05MS as it comes with a front one way instead of 2 diffs)
- run the front diff tighter than the rear diff
- use a center one way on the TA05 (never tried this on the TA05MS but I suspect this will also work well)
- TRF shocks on the TA05 (the TA05MS comes with these)
- front springs use tamiya whites, rear springs use tamiya blues
- 60wt shock oil all round seems to work for me
- lay the rear shocks down from where the manual says to put them
- front/rear stablisers use lightest ones
- 4 degree caster c-hubs on front (TA05 use the lightweight suspension set which is sold as an upgrade kit, the TA05MS comes with this already however I have upgraded to 5 degree caster c-hubs from Square for the MS.. think its the STV-35R set)
- 2 degree camber both front and rear (although on the TA05MS I found that the rear camber is nicer at 3 degrees)
- 0.5/1 degree toe out on front, 2/2.5 toe in on rear (whatever each chassis comes with as default works fine)
- tyre choice depends on the grip of the carpet you are using but i have found that Sorex 20Rs are good with an A-Medium or A-Firm insert, but others will say run the C inserts from Sorex as thinner allows for more contact patch and more grip)
- 3.5/4mm droop front, 2/2.5mm droop rear (but this is best tuned based on the speed you are travelling and layout of the track etc, but in my experience works alright for most situations).

I have been competitive with this setup in stock 27T, 13.5 brushless and modified classes with a setup like this but it might suit my driving style and not yours so play around with the setup to suit your preferences.

-Mark

mok

iTrader: (9)

An update...

Lightweight alum swing shafts on the rear may not be strong enough under impact. Have now done 2 of these, one bent and the other snapped off at the dogbone end of the shaft.

Its possible the power/speed of modified touring requires something a bit strong on the rear here. I'm considering moving to the steel swingshafts for added strength and also slightly more weight over the rear wheels.

Just my 2 cents anyways..

-Mark

mok

iTrader: (9)

For those curious about how 5 cell goes in the MS, take a look at my race ready car..

http://www.new.facebook.com/photo.ph...d&id=711743255

This chassis is balanced WITHOUT the use of additional weights.
Left-Right weight balance is 50/50%, with Front-Rear balance being 45/55%.

It should be interesting to see how this chassis goes in terms of weights and balance when I move into using lipos.

-Mark

Qatmix

looks good, let us know how it goes when you race it.

Has anyone here fitted the 1mm aluminium retainers on their shocks? Im thinking of adding these and the titanium coated shock pistons to my car.. (I'm bored and cant race for 4 weeks so think it might tinker with it)

rctouringracer

iTrader: (5)

I have the 1mm down retainers on my MS and they fit perfect and give me more adjustment for the ride height, aiding me to more fine tune my ride height!

HI_808

I had to add 18 7 gram weights for a total of 126 grams to my Orion 3200 lipos. The Orion lipos weight something like 220 grams.

Herc Driver

iTrader: (8)

Guys,

I have a TA05...pretty much hopped up as TCS allows, my delima is that I like the car its easy to drive/work on etc. I would like to keep the TA05 and go to the MS...however, its discontinued. With that said what parts are MS only...i.e. what parts are specifically in danger of being hard to find?

If the parts are going to be "Drying up" I don't see going to this chassis...if they are plentiful then Id choose this car...thanks for understanding.

mok

iTrader: (9)

A few replies up and you'll see a couple posts about my findings with maintenance/wear and also how i find the chassis to race.

mok

iTrader: (9)

There are a hell of a lot of parts that are common between a hopped up TA05 (or TA05-R) so most of your running gear wont be hard to get. Everything to do with the suspension in terms of lower arms, uprights, c-hubs etc are all very common parts. The diff pulleys, plates and outdrives are also very common on Tamiya chassis.

Really when I think about it, the 2 things that stand out for me as being specific to the TA05MS are the belts (these are not the same as on the 415, 416, TA05 etc) and also the lower deck (specific to the TA05MS for fairly obvious reasons).And now I think more the front/rear damper stays are specific to the TA05MS (they also fit the short wheelbase MS chassis that the limited edition Porche 934 came with).

Personally I wouldnt worry about finding parts for a while. Tamiya seems pretty good as supporting their chassis, even when discontinued.