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iTrader: (23)

was it kind of tight when you had to slip the arm on? with some of my off=roads, i just break them in by moving them up and down numerous times.

mok

iTrader: (9)

hrmm, there really is no trick to assembling/attaching the lower arms and suspension bridges etc..

its definately binding somewhere that much is known...

triple check the spacers etc?
but i wouldnt see any reason why you couldnt sand just a little off the outsides to get it moving freely..

just with the spacers, if you were to change one of them (0.5mm smaller etc) i would leave the inner spacers (the ones closest to the spur gear) and only adjust the front/front or rear/rear spacers only..


well i saw track time today with the new setup..
it handles very well once i managed to tame the rear end a little (droop and shock position)
but i also found out that 44mm swingshafts on the front are a BIG no no!

interestingly enough, another racer had a new TRF416WE and we were both suffering the exact same issues on the track..
i'd still prefer a rear mounted motor as I now mainly run mod, but the TA05MS with the TRF416WE setup is now an excellent car to drive

dameetz

Ok I just found out the problem. I took off the suspension bridge and put it back again then somehow it freed the rear arm I guess the suspension bridges were mis align the first time I put those on.

Now I ve got another problem and one potential problem.

When I put the screws to metal I always put a bit of Blue Loctite. Upon disassembling the rear parts which includes the bulk heads and the bridges, somehow the screws were very hard to be taken off so tried very hard and stripped the hex screw heads not one but 2 on the right side bulk head. At the moment I just leave it as it is. Any of you guys have any advice on how to take those off without hurting the chassis? All i can think of is to dremel those screws to make minus heads but I m afraid it will ruin my brand new chassis coz the dremel cutting disc is a bit big.

The potential problem that i can see is the steering belcrank (left and right) touches the lower front belt when I make it full left and right lock? Is this normal? I haven't put on the front suspension yet, will this be clear after that?

Thanks for replying guys.

dameetz

Whats the parts no. to make a front diff? Is it the same as rear diff? What do you guys prefer for front drive, diff or spool? My driving style (nitro touring) always been with spool. This car will run on the same track that I race my nitro TC with.

Qatmix

I wouldnt use loctite on the screws myself.

I run a diff on the front as its my usual circuit is quite technical. I think you should give it a go with the one-way and then decide if you like it or want to go with the spool.

Also Mok, to change the suspension to be similar to the 416, do you just need to buy the lightweight short reversible suspension kit and some drive shafts?

Atm, I have a spare complete set of trf 950 bearings to replace the current ones but after they go, I might treat myself.

Also what sort of changes did you make to stop the car swapping ends? I've softened the rear and moved in the shocks, but did you reduce front droop as well?

mok

iTrader: (9)

The short reversible suspension set gives you everything you need to convert the chassis over, with the exception of the suspension bridges and swingshafts.

If you want to make it EXACTLY like the 416WE then you need to replace all the suspension bridges. If you want to make it close to the 416WE, then you need to replace the rear/front suspension bridge (1XB -> 1XC) to get the same toe settings and then just space the wheels back out to the same trackwidth etc.

At a minimum, just get 2 x D parts (53928) and a 1XC suspension bridge. This way you can keep the same c-hubs, bearings and uprights from the TA05MS and just replace the arms etc.

it depends on where its happening..

off power corner entry --> reduce rear droop, stiffer front shocks
on power corner exit --> increase front droop, soften rear shocks

(thats the easiest thing to change)

you can make adjustments to anti-squat/anti-dive, roll centers and others to give similar effects, but you might find other changes are needed to get the car handling right in other areas of the track..

Fast XXXS

iTrader: (51)

Was that 64 pitch or 48? im currently running 48 pitch and would like to stick with it.

HI_808

I use 64 pitch. With the gears previously mentioned, I could get the FDR down to about 4.2.

PDR

iTrader: (31)

I stripped one head in the early days. Two things I did:

1. Buy a decent 2mm driver. I bought a Hudy one since the kit one is prone to this sort of thing.
2. Bought some titanium screws - much stronger as well as lighter

As for getting one out, I bought a thing called an "easy out" which is basically a reverse tapered drill bit. Drilled a small pilot hole in the head and then hand-turned this into the screw (it goes anti-clockwise). Eventually, it gets more grip than the screw has and the screw starts coming out. Relatively straightforward - I picked up mine at the local hardware store.

Good luck!

PDR

iTrader: (31)

I too had a fun day racing today (the new layout at SMA is awesome fun).

Anyway, someone who knows more than I do had a good look over the car and noticed that the left rear has much more toe-in than the right rear. Given my driving speeds, it's probably not hindering me yet, but they suggested getting it sorted out.

The front suspension mount is 1XC and the rear is 1C. According to the handy chart at www.thard.co.uk this should give me 3 degrees rear toe-in, but the left and right are visibly different.

Any suggestions on what to do?

mok

iTrader: (9)

have you checked for bent suspension bridges, hinge pins or wheel axles?
also check for wear in the rear uprights and lower arms in general...

thats all i can think of for now..

Qatmix

Cheers for the reply Mok

I thought it was about reducing the rear droop further,I'll have a dabble this week.

mok

iTrader: (9)

i now run about 1.5mm of measured droop in the rear and probably 2.5mm in the front (havent measured it yet as i just made some on the fly changes today)..
to me this is all about getting the weight to shift to the rear tyres in order to maintain traction either under hard accelleration or braking.

try a lighter oil in the rear shocks as well...
my current setup uses 40wt with blue springs front, 35wt with yellow springs rear..
3 hole pistons all around

this seems to work to balance out the dampening and rebound of the shocks front to back.. that is, when you press down on the front or rear of the car it should give a more closely matched resistance, but the front should be just a tad slower..

the quicker acting rear helps it to keep the rear wheels planted when transitioning on and off power etc, also lets the rear sink in just a little more than the front.. and i think the slower acting front gives the car a tendency to oversteer less or push to understeer more...

at least thats my understanding of it !!

-Mark

dameetz

Thanks for the info. I bought it and after a few attempt the sucker finally got out. Now I have just finished building my car, what a wonderful sight, feels like I dont want race it coz it looks just too 'blingy'

Now I just want to set it up however i cannot find ant stock set up provided with the kit, i only have the blank set up sheet.

I ll put my car on my Hudy set up station shortly for setting it up.

If i want to measure downstop where do i put the block to get the reading? Is it from the bottom of the uprights (knuckles) like my nitro car?

mok

iTrader: (9)

(whoops, i had the TRF416/416WE setup sheets linked here before)

the TA05MS doesnt seem to have any setup sheets available for reference, not that i've found anyway..
atm i'm running a fairly close setup to the TRF416WE (including the short arms) and the TA05MS is now handling great!

i measure to the bottom of the outer hinge pin (in the uprights)