2LikesTamiya TA05MS
08-11-2007, 03:51 AM
#346
i'm still and still and still very problematic about the diff,, ok here's the case.
the kit was fully built, then i tested my ball diff, i put my foot infront of the car and hit the throtle, what should be the balldiff reaction if it was built correclty?
and do you think my balldiff is correct....
i lift the car(no wheels attached to the ground) i fully throttled the car and then hit the brake immediately and then the front onew way immediately react. but the balldiff takes like 1-2 sec before stopping. is that a slip?
help me about my balldiff,
: cry:
the kit was fully built, then i tested my ball diff, i put my foot infront of the car and hit the throtle, what should be the balldiff reaction if it was built correclty?
and do you think my balldiff is correct....
i lift the car(no wheels attached to the ground) i fully throttled the car and then hit the brake immediately and then the front onew way immediately react. but the balldiff takes like 1-2 sec before stopping. is that a slip?
help me about my balldiff,
: cry:
08-11-2007, 04:17 AM
#347
i'm still and still and still very problematic about the diff,, ok here's the case.
the kit was fully built, then i tested my ball diff, i put my foot infront of the car and hit the throtle, what should be the balldiff reaction if it was built correclty?
and do you think my balldiff is correct....
i lift the car(no wheels attached to the ground) i fully throttled the car and then hit the brake immediately and then the front onew way immediately react. but the balldiff takes like 1-2 sec before stopping. is that a slip?
help me about my balldiff,: cry:
the kit was fully built, then i tested my ball diff, i put my foot infront of the car and hit the throtle, what should be the balldiff reaction if it was built correclty?
and do you think my balldiff is correct....
i lift the car(no wheels attached to the ground) i fully throttled the car and then hit the brake immediately and then the front onew way immediately react. but the balldiff takes like 1-2 sec before stopping. is that a slip?
help me about my balldiff,
: cry:You might not want put your foot in front of the car when you put the wheels on, for you have a one way in.....you could snap shaft bone pins .
try that than write back
08-11-2007, 06:58 AM
#348
it's fairly tight enough if i will tighten it again it will not be free as possible.. i think it has something to do with grease? im using the stock tamiya ball diff grease.. what do u think?
08-11-2007, 07:01 AM
#349
How are you guys liking the kit? How does it compare to the Msxx in terms of performance?
08-11-2007, 09:56 AM
#351
Correct setting off diff. Two essentials...
1. Must turn smoothly.
2. If you hold the spur gear and the opposite wheel, then try and turn the original wheel by hand, it should take a fair amount of force before the diff slips.
As long as you have these two things, you can then set the diff between tight and free depending on how you want to tune the car.
Key to building a good diff is cleanliness, plenty of black grease on the thrust assembly, and sufficient silicon grease on the main balls to cover the assembly without a build up which can cause slip.
Then tighten the screw until it is hand tight, not crushing any components, back off by 1/8th to 1/4 of a turn, should be an OK starting point for final check in the car as above.
As much as anything else a good diff setting comes from experience, the more often you check, adjust and maintain the diff the better you will be at feeling when it is right.
1. Must turn smoothly.
2. If you hold the spur gear and the opposite wheel, then try and turn the original wheel by hand, it should take a fair amount of force before the diff slips.
As long as you have these two things, you can then set the diff between tight and free depending on how you want to tune the car.
Key to building a good diff is cleanliness, plenty of black grease on the thrust assembly, and sufficient silicon grease on the main balls to cover the assembly without a build up which can cause slip.
Then tighten the screw until it is hand tight, not crushing any components, back off by 1/8th to 1/4 of a turn, should be an OK starting point for final check in the car as above.
As much as anything else a good diff setting comes from experience, the more often you check, adjust and maintain the diff the better you will be at feeling when it is right.
08-11-2007, 10:46 PM
#352
Hey guy, just a noob questions for a first owner of a CF kit... How should I store my CF kit in a proper way, aside from loosening the screws at the top deck, bulk head (under chassis), suspension mount... What else should I do???
Thanks in advance...
Thanks in advance...
08-12-2007, 04:08 AM
#353
guys here's some report.
Just finished racing with some club fellas.
and guess what>. The 05ms ran very well... i already fixed the balldiff issue.. i changed the balldiff grease into something not so common grease.. I sneaked into my sisters room and found something interesting than i applied Facial Cream
and guess what so smooth compared to tamiya stock balldiff grease..
My car ran very well with oneway setup and unbelievable the setup is stock from the manual and yet it performed so good.i swear the drivetrain is very good.. im also looking forward to use the 501 18t center pulley.
xanavi have you tried your car?
Just finished racing with some club fellas.
and guess what>. The 05ms ran very well... i already fixed the balldiff issue.. i changed the balldiff grease into something not so common grease.. I sneaked into my sisters room and found something interesting than i applied Facial Cream
and guess what so smooth compared to tamiya stock balldiff grease..My car ran very well with oneway setup and unbelievable the setup is stock from the manual and yet it performed so good.i swear the drivetrain is very good.. im also looking forward to use the 501 18t center pulley.
xanavi have you tried your car?
08-12-2007, 04:42 AM
#354
Tech Initiate
guys here's some report.
Just finished racing with some club fellas.
and guess what>. The 05ms ran very well... i already fixed the balldiff issue.. i changed the balldiff grease into something not so common grease.. I sneaked into my sisters room and found something interesting than i applied Facial Cream and guess what so smooth compared to tamiya stock balldiff grease..
My car ran very well with oneway setup and unbelievable the setup is stock from the manual and yet it performed so good.i swear the drivetrain is very good.. im also looking forward to use the 501 18t center pulley.
xanavi have you tried your car?
Just finished racing with some club fellas.
and guess what>. The 05ms ran very well... i already fixed the balldiff issue.. i changed the balldiff grease into something not so common grease.. I sneaked into my sisters room and found something interesting than i applied Facial Cream
and guess what so smooth compared to tamiya stock balldiff grease..My car ran very well with oneway setup and unbelievable the setup is stock from the manual and yet it performed so good.i swear the drivetrain is very good.. im also looking forward to use the 501 18t center pulley.
xanavi have you tried your car?
watch out for the balldiff pulley. Im pretty sure it'l melt soon. facial creams cannot sustain high operating temperatures
08-12-2007, 04:53 AM
#355
guys here's some report.
Just finished racing with some club fellas.
and guess what>. The 05ms ran very well... i already fixed the balldiff issue.. i changed the balldiff grease into something not so common grease.. I sneaked into my sisters room and found something interesting than i applied Facial Cream and guess what so smooth compared to tamiya stock balldiff grease..
My car ran very well with oneway setup and unbelievable the setup is stock from the manual and yet it performed so good.i swear the drivetrain is very good.. im also looking forward to use the 501 18t center pulley.
xanavi have you tried your car?
Just finished racing with some club fellas.
and guess what>. The 05ms ran very well... i already fixed the balldiff issue.. i changed the balldiff grease into something not so common grease.. I sneaked into my sisters room and found something interesting than i applied Facial Cream
and guess what so smooth compared to tamiya stock balldiff grease..My car ran very well with oneway setup and unbelievable the setup is stock from the manual and yet it performed so good.i swear the drivetrain is very good.. im also looking forward to use the 501 18t center pulley.
xanavi have you tried your car?
08-12-2007, 05:00 AM
#357
xanavi,rampal.. ok let us know how it performs... cheeers
08-12-2007, 09:21 AM
#359
Just wanted to add more info about ball diffs, etc but I think it's kinda long but what the heck, you'll learn from it anyway...
Step 1. Completely remove the diff from the vehicle. C'mon, you can do it; It's just a few screws. They won't bite, I promise. Disassemble the differential over a large white work towel-- the towel will catch any parts you might drop, and they'll be easy to see against the white background. Lay out all the parts in order so you won't forget how they go. It's also a good idea to have your instruction manual handy so you can get an idea how the diff goes together. Check out the main gear for wear on the teeth or in the ball sockets. If there isn't any wear, put it aside until Step 2. Examine the diff rings for signs of wear where the diff balls ride against them; what you are looking for here is a groove that the balls might have made. If you don't feel a groove with your fingernail, then they are fine. If you do feet a groove, you can flip the rings over to reveal a fresh surface. If the flip side of the ring isn't smooth-faced, or the ring has already been flipped and is worn on both sides, you'll have to replace them.
Step 2. Clean the parts
Grease is normally used on both the diff ball and thrust bearing to lubricate the moving parts. It's a simple fact that this attracts dirt, and no matter how you try to seal the tranny, chances are some sort of contamination will occur. Use some motor spray or denatured alcohol to clean all the parts, and be sure to get all the grease out of the thrust-bearing assembly. if you are reusing any of the diff balls or rings, wipe them down and place them on a clean spot on your towel. Clean the diff gear with a pipe cleaner or a cotton swab to get all the diff lube out of the holes. The more thoroughly you clean the parts, the smoother the diff will feel when It's back together.
Step 3. Diff-ring prep
Matt Francis revealed this secret diff-ring trick: he uses 400-grit sandpaper to remove any high spots on the rings; this, In turn, allows the balls to spin more smoothly. Rub the rings on the paper In a circular pattern, wax-on/wax-off style, until there is an even, dull sheen. Some diff rings are one-sided; make sure you put the rings on the drive hubs with the rounded-- edge side facing toward the outdrive. When you place the rings on the drive hubs, use a small dab of diff lube to hold the ring in place; this helps when you put the two sides together.
Step 4. Put it all back together
Slip the thrust washer on the diff screw and liberally apply grease to the top of the washer. Now place all of the thrust balls in the grease, and apply more grease and the second washer. You want a lot of grease here, so don't worry If It oozes everywhere. Slip the thrust assembly in the diff outdrive and set It aside. Insert the diff balls In the diff gear and apply a generous amount of clear silicone grease to the balls on both sides of the gear. Place a dab of grease on each outdrive and press the diff washers into place. Now simply slide all of these pieces together and tighten the diff screw. Voila; your diff is back together.
Step 5. Adjusting the diff
It is extremely important to tighten a ball differential properly; they were not designed to have any slip in them. In electric vehicles, the sound of a slipping diff is very noticeable; it almost sounds like a quack. Drivers of gas vehicles don't have the luxury of being able to hear a slipping diff, so make sure you adjust it correctly; otherwise, you'll be heading to the parts counter and doing this all over again. A too-- tight diff can also spell disaster; it can affect a vehicle's handling and can wear out the diff rings and balls prematurely.
To set the diff to the proper tightness, first check it when the transmission is apart. Hold both outdrives, and try to spin the cliff gear; you shouldn't be able to. Niftech makes a diff stand that makes this job easy. You want to get the proper balance between smooth, efficient diff action and tightness, so the gear doesn't spin. When replaced in the car, the diff setting may change slightly as the cliff breaks in. Run a quick lap, and check the setting. An easy way to see whether the diff is slipping Is to hold the car still and hit the throttle. If the tires don't spin but the slipper nut or main shaft does, then the cliff is slipping. You want the slipper to slip before the nut spins.
Now, that wasn't so bad, was it? Ball diffs are very simple to adjust. With a little patience and experimentation, a ball diff will give you hours of trouble-free running. As with any moving part, some simple maintenance will go a long way, and that means more time on the track or in the backyard.
Step 1. Completely remove the diff from the vehicle. C'mon, you can do it; It's just a few screws. They won't bite, I promise. Disassemble the differential over a large white work towel-- the towel will catch any parts you might drop, and they'll be easy to see against the white background. Lay out all the parts in order so you won't forget how they go. It's also a good idea to have your instruction manual handy so you can get an idea how the diff goes together. Check out the main gear for wear on the teeth or in the ball sockets. If there isn't any wear, put it aside until Step 2. Examine the diff rings for signs of wear where the diff balls ride against them; what you are looking for here is a groove that the balls might have made. If you don't feel a groove with your fingernail, then they are fine. If you do feet a groove, you can flip the rings over to reveal a fresh surface. If the flip side of the ring isn't smooth-faced, or the ring has already been flipped and is worn on both sides, you'll have to replace them.
Step 2. Clean the parts
Grease is normally used on both the diff ball and thrust bearing to lubricate the moving parts. It's a simple fact that this attracts dirt, and no matter how you try to seal the tranny, chances are some sort of contamination will occur. Use some motor spray or denatured alcohol to clean all the parts, and be sure to get all the grease out of the thrust-bearing assembly. if you are reusing any of the diff balls or rings, wipe them down and place them on a clean spot on your towel. Clean the diff gear with a pipe cleaner or a cotton swab to get all the diff lube out of the holes. The more thoroughly you clean the parts, the smoother the diff will feel when It's back together.
Step 3. Diff-ring prep
Matt Francis revealed this secret diff-ring trick: he uses 400-grit sandpaper to remove any high spots on the rings; this, In turn, allows the balls to spin more smoothly. Rub the rings on the paper In a circular pattern, wax-on/wax-off style, until there is an even, dull sheen. Some diff rings are one-sided; make sure you put the rings on the drive hubs with the rounded-- edge side facing toward the outdrive. When you place the rings on the drive hubs, use a small dab of diff lube to hold the ring in place; this helps when you put the two sides together.
Step 4. Put it all back together
Slip the thrust washer on the diff screw and liberally apply grease to the top of the washer. Now place all of the thrust balls in the grease, and apply more grease and the second washer. You want a lot of grease here, so don't worry If It oozes everywhere. Slip the thrust assembly in the diff outdrive and set It aside. Insert the diff balls In the diff gear and apply a generous amount of clear silicone grease to the balls on both sides of the gear. Place a dab of grease on each outdrive and press the diff washers into place. Now simply slide all of these pieces together and tighten the diff screw. Voila; your diff is back together.
Step 5. Adjusting the diff
It is extremely important to tighten a ball differential properly; they were not designed to have any slip in them. In electric vehicles, the sound of a slipping diff is very noticeable; it almost sounds like a quack. Drivers of gas vehicles don't have the luxury of being able to hear a slipping diff, so make sure you adjust it correctly; otherwise, you'll be heading to the parts counter and doing this all over again. A too-- tight diff can also spell disaster; it can affect a vehicle's handling and can wear out the diff rings and balls prematurely.
To set the diff to the proper tightness, first check it when the transmission is apart. Hold both outdrives, and try to spin the cliff gear; you shouldn't be able to. Niftech makes a diff stand that makes this job easy. You want to get the proper balance between smooth, efficient diff action and tightness, so the gear doesn't spin. When replaced in the car, the diff setting may change slightly as the cliff breaks in. Run a quick lap, and check the setting. An easy way to see whether the diff is slipping Is to hold the car still and hit the throttle. If the tires don't spin but the slipper nut or main shaft does, then the cliff is slipping. You want the slipper to slip before the nut spins.
Now, that wasn't so bad, was it? Ball diffs are very simple to adjust. With a little patience and experimentation, a ball diff will give you hours of trouble-free running. As with any moving part, some simple maintenance will go a long way, and that means more time on the track or in the backyard.
08-12-2007, 10:58 AM
#360
Tech Master